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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 01-30-2004, 11:37 PM   #16
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Pat
300hp on LW rods? Yikes....

I've personally pulled apart three STOCK log manifold T-I cars with broken LW rods.
dont hold me to it my memory might not be working.
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Old 01-31-2004, 12:13 AM   #17
 
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i guess i'll start another plan of attack, T1 will still be good for a
ST. Bracket motor
 
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:42 AM   #18
 
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is it the horsepower that kills the rod, or is it the torque?
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:50 AM   #19
 
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Torque.. These cars are capable of well over 300 ft lbs at 4000 rpm. (that's with a fairly stock set-up). Think of them as "stroker" 4 cyl's
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Old 02-10-2004, 11:10 AM   #20
 
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so if i keep it to about 250-260 HP and not over tire it, i'll be "thumbs up i know i'm going thru the A/T will the axels last a
yr or ? at that HP ?
 
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:46 PM   #21
 
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I was going to run an a/t for reliability and consistancy but there is nothing like the feeling of manual shifting"thumbs up They should last aslong as you dont beat it too bad.

As for the T2s can you buy them new still or do I have to buy used ones. I may consider this If money gets any tighter and just keep the boost down in the low 20psi range. But I really want the FM rods
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Old 02-11-2004, 02:12 AM   #22
 
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I dont know if the T2 and T3 rods are the same, but I am running 421 h.p. on them right now, I took the stress risers off them and polished them. I did this with a dremel and some time.

The biggest killer of rods at high horsepower is ANY detonation. At high boost and power the stress load is huge on the rods and wont tolorate much detonation.

On aluminum rods, I spoke to GRP rods, they make rods for our cars rated to 1000 h.p. per set or 250 h.p. per rod. They dont recommend aluminum for daily use, but at the lower h.p. we run there shouldnt be any problems.

Wallace
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