87 Turbo 'Tuna BHG!

Well, Mom-in-laws Daytona looks like it has a Blown Head Gasket.
I had to bump the starter to get it to crank, and when I did get it started it billowed white smoke.
I haven't checked the compression but I'm sure It's blown because she said its been running low on coolant for the last couple of weeks.
So... what do I need to check and change. Gasket...Head bolts?...more?
Thanks in advance!

[88lebaron]

Iv never actualy purchased these parts yet but I just had a question about them.

I was at the dealer yesterday to check prices and they were stupid for OEM parts.

From what iv read:

Goto your dealership and get the Mopar Performance Head Gasket for your application

And Get Mopar Performance Head Bolts too. Well iv read they can be reused twice so if this is 3rd HG then get the bolts. But some ppl say to replace the bolts everytime.

I just went to the dealor and for the stock replacement parts it was over twice of what it would cost do do with Mopar Performance parts. And i read that the OEM parts have the same "flaw" that was origionaly designed into them wile the MP HG's have been changed and improved.

Make sure you get the part numbers:

P4452005 - non-cross-drilled head and block
P4452006 - cross-drilled head and block
P4452007 - non-quadrilled with o-rings
P4452008 - cross-drilled with o-rings

[88lebaron]

Went to dealor and they wanted $49 for OEM head gasket and $70 for 10 headbolts. All OEM.

With mopar performance its $26 for head gasket and like $20-$30 for bolts.

This is up here in Canada. From what I was told The head gasket is like $16.99 from a dealer in the states. Dont know about bolts though.

Thanks for the numbers, but I'm not sure what they mean...
How do you ID the block?

Someone also posted you could slip the old HG out and slip the new one in... I have to assume this means without removing the turbo and intake.
JUST removing the AC, front motor mount, timing cover and belt and (i'am sure I missed something).

[cawcislo]

Don't have to remove anything off the head. Keep all manifolds on. Here's what has to be removed. drain coolant. need to pull valve cover and slip timing belt off. I think what someone was saying about sliding in a new headgasket is that with help you can probably get away without pulling the downpipe off and any of the wires and vacuum hoses that attach to the intake manifold. with help you can just lift the head up just a bit to pull the old gasket off than slip the new one in and put it back together.

[zombezoo]

I would not recommend the lift and slide method for a HG change. Some are able to get away with it but I think your just introducing the possibility for problems to occur again. A gasket change should include a clean surface on both the head and the block. Without it, you will be in there again fixing the problem again. To be honest, its not a whole lot more work to take the head off and clean everything properly when you take into consideration how long it will take you to do it twice. You don’t need to remove much to get the head completely off. Under the car items include, oil drain back (turbo only) water feed to turbo, turbo support bracket, and the exhaust. The rest of the stuff is all up top. Disconnect all vacuum lines that run off the head, wiring at the throttle body and at the fuel rail and along the front of the head (coolant temp sensor, temp gauge) As far as items to remove all you need to remove is the valve cover, timing belt, top bolts in the AC bracket (the ones that go into the head) The throttle cables… I think that’s everything but keep in mind, you don’t need to remove things that are attached to the head. I made the mistake of removing things like the fuel rail and air hoses and such. If it can stay on, leave it on! It really cuts down on the time. I can get the head off of my car in about an hour now. You may need help picking the head up off the engine with the ac bracket in the way but its much faster then removing the compressor and all the bracketry and stuff.

[zombezoo]

A few more items I would recommend...
Get the correct tap and clean the threads in the block for the bolts, gives more consistent torque readings... Get some of the gasket spray sealant that is used on the 2.0/2.4 MLS gasket. I have another thread open right now on this one. My gasket seeps oil from the front of the head, this stuff is supposed to resist that. Most important though is to get those surfaces spotless! I get all the black stuff off the head with some brake cleaner and some emery cloth, same with the block, get all the old material off. It should almost be shiny when you’re done. Make sure to stick rags in the bores to keep the dirt and grime out. Think clean!
Thanks!
Ryan Lada

Got all that done...
Now I'm left with a cam timing question...
Crank at 0 deg., distributor pointing at 1, little hole in the cam at 12 0'clock or inline with the crank/cam centerline?


Oh yea...
Looks like I've got a oil leak at the rear cam seal. Will my dealer have a cam seal? And what is this make a gasket stuff? (for the rear cam bearing)

[zombezoo]

The easiest method for cam timing IMHO is using a straight edge. I use wire...
Set the crank on 0 degrees and then stretch the wire through the center of the center bolt on the crank to the center of the center bolt on the intermediate shaft. Make the small line on the edge of the intermediate shaft line up with the wire. (You will notice that it may not line up perfect but moving the intermediate shaft one tooth in either direction makes it worse) Then take the wire and stretch it from the center bolt of the crank to the center of the center bolt on the cam. Make the odd shaped oval hole line up so that it falls directly behind the wire. (Again, you will notice that it may not line up perfect but moving the intermediate shaft one tooth in either direction makes it worse) The oval hole should be at the top of the sprocket. Make sure the cam is phased correctly. The intake valve on #1 should have just closed.
Ryan Lada

I just realized that the intermediate shaft turns the distributor!
Water pump, oil pump then the distributor...
I lined up the marks when I changed the belt a couple of years ago but I did'nt know why.
Well a little knowledge is a dangerous thing!