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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 03-04-2004, 10:01 PM   #16
 
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That's why I didn't think you could do away with the pvc system.

DJ
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Old 03-06-2004, 12:13 AM   #17
 
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For what it's worth I have been driving two of my my high mileage 2.5 turbos this very cold winter and have had no moisture in the oil problems. It's important to keep the engine temp warm to keep the heater working here at - 30 etc. and this helps with moisture in the oil. I consider completely removing the PCV system a safety measure as any oil dilution in the engine air intake reduces the fuel octane considerably. And even in winter I street race at every opportunity, so detonation is always a concern.
Thanks
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Old 03-06-2004, 01:04 AM   #18
 
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what about putting a breather on the valve cover drill a hole and weld a tube for a filter breather
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Old 03-06-2004, 08:31 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by LeGweg
Here's what Joe O'Connor did;


http://community-2.webtv.net/PAGEBUI...ASEEVACUATION/

I did the same thing on my Daytona and it works very well. But we have no emissions tests to pass over here...
Did it to my Omni, now on my van and I go thru emissions.
It works great, with thumb over hose you can feel the setup
pulling hard anything over idle.

http://hometown.aol.com/russjerome/images/flexpipe.jpg

The valve and hose are at 10'oclock just below swingvalve
in pic.
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Old 03-06-2004, 01:54 PM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aries_Turbo
dont you pretty much have to run a straight pipe for that setup to work?

Brian
I run a full exhaust (2½" mandrel bent with Dynomax Ultraflo muffler, no cat) and this setup works great.
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Old 03-06-2004, 10:03 PM   #21
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by LeGweg
I run a full exhaust (2½" mandrel bent with Dynomax Ultraflo muffler, no cat) and this setup works great.
Thanks Bruno,

ill be running a 3" no cat, one long dunomax race bullet and one short dynomax race bullet and a side exit on my k car so it should work.

Brian
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Old 03-07-2004, 10:57 AM   #22
 
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Also, since the Moroso kits are made for V8s, you can use the kit for 2 TDs. If you only need it for one car, just order the weld-in nipple and the check valve which are available separately. I used a 5/8 heater hose that run directly from the valve cover outlet to to the check valve.

One user (BadAndy) told me that he had problems (smoke coming out the exhaust on deceleration) and he solved the problem by adding a breather on the valve cover, which makes sense. The check valve closes when you get off the "go pedal" and the pressure now has nowhere to go. I punched a hole in the valve cover and added a breather too when installing the setup and never had any problems.
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