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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 02-27-2004, 10:23 PM   #1
Ways to relieve crank case pressure?  
GLHS#441
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I keep getting an oil leak at the rear main seal and
I think it is due to excessive crank case pressure.
Does anyone know of ways to relieve the pressure?
Vacume pump?,vent?,tbi valve cover(has two vents)?
 
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Old 02-27-2004, 11:29 PM   #2
 
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Andy, are you still running the stock pcv system?
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Old 02-27-2004, 11:54 PM   #3
 
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Last year I just used a vented style oil cap, but that blew oil all over the valve cover and looked like sh!t. This year I tapped a 3/8 NPT hole into the block just to the right of the distributor(the area that's sort of rounded) at the end of the intermediate shaft. I'm running a line from the fitting there to a breather canister. I will start out running a vented cap again and see if it works ok this time. With the 2 of them venting the block, I should be ok.
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Old 02-28-2004, 04:23 AM   #4
 
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summit or jegs make a kit weld in a 1/2 in tube into your header at an angle and it sucks it out
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Old 02-28-2004, 08:36 AM   #5
 
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If you're using an early style block you can take your fuel pump block off plate and get it tapped and use this as a vent. I drilled a 1/2" hole in mine and welded a piece of pipe to it. Works pretty good.
 
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Old 02-28-2004, 06:40 PM   #6
 
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Here's what Joe O'Connor did;


http://community-2.webtv.net/PAGEBUI...ASEEVACUATION/

I did the same thing on my Daytona and it works very well. But we have no emissions tests to pass over here...
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Old 02-28-2004, 08:17 PM   #7
 
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I've got the same problem. I removed the pcv and ran a hose from the valve cover to a oil catch can I built out of an aluminum a/c receiver drier that I gutted and added fittings and a small filter.I also added a tube to my fuel pump block off plate for added ventilation but...I found that the oil is getting pushed up the tube from the fuel plate so I'll have to add in a baffle. Sorry I don't have pics. If anyone has figured out a fool proof way please
please tell us.

Chris
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Old 02-29-2004, 12:02 AM   #8
 
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I run a 4' length of heater hose off the valve cover nipple to under the car on all my Turbo Dodges. Crankcase pressure cannot be contained so you have to let it breathe. If you let the crankcase pressure escape easily it takes very little oil with it.
Thanks
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Old 03-04-2004, 01:48 PM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by LeGweg
Here's what Joe O'Connor did;


http://community-2.webtv.net/PAGEBUI...ASEEVACUATION/

I did the same thing on my Daytona and it works very well. But we have no emissions tests to pass over here...
dont you pretty much have to run a straight pipe for that setup to work?

Brian
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Old 03-04-2004, 02:57 PM   #10
 
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i just ran a vent tube toward's the ground from the valve cover
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Old 03-04-2004, 03:02 PM   #11
 
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I had a leak at the rear main. Pretty bad one too. Thought it was the pan leaking. When I swapped in a forged piston motor at the begining of last year I found the rear main seal retainer cracked right were it meets the block.
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Old 03-04-2004, 03:12 PM   #12
 
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How is it that you can just get rid of the pcv system?

DJ
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Old 03-04-2004, 05:06 PM   #13
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aries_Turbo
dont you pretty much have to run a straight pipe for that setup to work?

Brian
No, it works similar to how the old carb cars with air pumps were set up, only they pumped air into the cat through a check valve. On my rampage, the hose to the air pump was off when I got it and you could feel a decent suction there. If someone were on an extreme budget they could get everything from the junkyard. The breather shown on Joes setup is ver similar to the ones used on 318's from the 70's through the 90's. You could cut the check valve off any car that his an air pump and lines in it's emission system.

For that type of system to work well I think it would have to be after the turbo due to there being less backpressure there.
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:05 PM   #14
 
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I have this same problem that I want to get rid of. When I do this set-up all I need to do is block off where the PCV valve goes to the intake? Then I can take off the rubber T on the back of the valve cover and run a hose to the underside of the car?

Can someone make a quick drawing of this set-up?
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Old 03-04-2004, 07:34 PM   #15
 
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I removed the PCV system on my high mileage 2.5 Turbo when I first got it and no sooner than 1000 miles and the fresh oil in the crankcase looked like crap. There was also a fair amount of condensation on the underside of the oil cap. With a "looser" engine like this, the PCV had to be reinstalled. I removed the baffle inside of the turbo valve cover and added a curtain from a TBI car. Then off of the port on the back of the valve cover I added a tee since the factory one was long gone. A Mopar PCV valve with hose goes to the intake and a small breater filter goes on the other side.

The oil thats in there now has almost 3000 miles on it and was a lot cleaner than it used to be at 1000 miles! (both times Mobil-1, same Champ filter too) I had to park the van over the winter, so I haven't driven it long enough to see if the breather filter collects oil or not.

Just a thought for those higher mileage mills out there...
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