87 block and rod strength

[87turbodance]

I'm converting my '87 turbo to turbo 2 and turning up the boost and adding water/alchohol injection. I've heard a lot of bad things about my Lw rods and horror stories about my block twisting past 250hp. Does anyone have any first hand experience with this? I'm looking to get into the 13's but I dont want ruin my block. I have a common block in the works but it wont be ready for this summer.

Looks like we are in the exact same boat. I'm about to do the T2 conversion myself on my 87 T1.
I'm not going past 225 HP on the LW rods, I've heard that the limit. It's really a gamble though, some person told me they were running 250 HP without failure, another at 200 HP the rods bent. I don't know, I'm just going to stay on the safe side.
Forget the alcohol injection, you will not need it once you are intercooled. You can run ~18 PSI boost on the stock I/C, get a front mount and you are good to 22-25 PSI on pump gas.
How much boost are you planning on running anyway? I hope no more than 14-15, any more and you have to trick the MAP sensor AND ADD MORE FUEL (most important!). Or you can get a stage 4-5 calibration from FWD performance and the 3 bar MAP sensor, much safer for your car but much more expensive too!

[87turbodance]

well, I planning on running around 18psi. I'm a big fan of the water injection. I have a set of 89 t1 rods in the garage. Any way to attach the press pin 87 pistons to them? I will be using a MP t2 cal with and extra injector and alcohol/water injection,volvo intercooler

I think you need to do a little research before you continue.

89 rods are for a commonblock, will not work.
What turbo are you running? I'm assuming stock garret. Does it have the large wastegate can? If not, you will not reach 18 PSI.
Volvo intercoolers are also known to have the plastic end tanks blow off at those levels of boost.
How were you planning on defeating the MAP sensor to prevent overboost shutdown?

The stage 2 mopar unit should give you 14 or so PSI, I suggest you just stick to that until you learn a bit more (no offense!).

[87turbodance]

I've done lots of research. I've read stuff in a few different places on Volvo intercoolers. I've seen 18 psi written as the limit for them. Some people say they've run well over 20 through them with no problem. I'm going to take my chances as Volvo intercoolers are quite cheap. I am aware that '89 rods are for a common block. I know thay're the same length and have the same journal size. I haven't decided on how I'm going to defeat the overboost shut down yet. I've considered using a zener but I might use a grainger valve instead. I have the small wastgate can but I have made the arm adjustable. I believe this will allow me to run a little more boost before the can is forced open. I just finished socketing my 87 lm and MrBOOST from Dearborn has been nice enough to burn an '87 mp t2 cal and mail it to me. I currently run a t1 log at 14 psi using a grainger valve. My car started life as a 2.2 TBI. I bought the car last spring for $500. The engine had 0 oil pressure at idle and maybe 10 psi at 5000 rpm. Yanked it out and install an '87 turbo 1 out of a New Yorkers. I modified my TBI wiring harness and mated a turbo 1 harness into it. I changed my car from an automatic to an '89 A520. In my garage I can a stripped '89 2.5 common block that has been tanked and magnafluxed. The crank has been turned and the rods resized. I'm just saving up some money to get Venolias, then the block will get bored and honed. I've been contemplating the 16 neon head conversion but I dont have the time right now. I think water injection would be an exellent complement to the intercooler.

[87turbodance]

I've done more research than you think. If you see any problem swith my idea feel free to comment

[87turbodance]

I've been doing a lot of reading on water injection the past few weeks and as far as I can tell there are no drawbacks and would help even with an intercooler. Helps cool combustion and allow me to run more timing. I also have read that you can run a little leaner with water or water/alcohol injection as you dont need the entra fuel to cool the combustion. What are your thoughts? Have you done any research on it? It's very popular among the GN guys. I forgot to mention I'm converting to an '89 1 piece when I convert to t2.

OK. The volvo intercoolers are also known to not flow very well. I seriously suggest just to run 14 PSI until you get your commonblock in, and then run your alcohol injection on that one. Yes I've researched it a good bit, and it's not really for the blow through setup. It's for the draw-through, because the turbo has to ''whip up'' the liquid because it is not sprayed in like an injector. What kind of nozzle were you planning on using?
The lightweight rods will only handle the power of 14-15 PSI.
I would use a 4.7V ZENER, thats what I am using currently, it works great.

[DakotaKid]

Make it short.

Do you have a 1987 T2 block and rods now?

I run a stock 1987 T2 (Daytona Shelby Z motor)
337 hp and over 400 lbs trq.

-Bryan

[8valveprick]

Quote:

The volvo intercoolers are also known to not flow very well.

I made 270 hp and 300ft lbs at the wheels at 27 psi using a volvo intercooler on a stock t2 bottom end. The volvo intercooler should flow plenty for what you've got. The reason I ditched my volvo is because it is not internally finned and therefore can't dissipate the heat as well. Look in the junkyards for a big Saab intercooler (look for the ones with the red valvecover. I think it's the Aero or something like that. If you get the wrong one it's the same core as the volvo. Look for internal fins) PM me if you need an intercooler. I have about 10 of them lying around various sizes and prices.

[87turbodance]

Kinda funny how this gotton so serious. I have an '87 turbo 1 block. I know it weak that's why I have a common block being rebuilt. I'm not going to use alcohol. Just water. I bought a couple spray nozzles from Macmaster-carr. 9.5 gallons/hour at 100psi. Anyway, I'm going to run the mp csx chip at 14psi with a grainger and the volvo intercooler for the time being with water injection. I want to see if the water injection on top of the intercooler will help on a really hot day in the summer. I figure it will improve my fuel economy by allowing me to run more timing on those long hills on the highway that take a bout 5 psi to maintain speed on. Has anyone every tired pouring blockfiller in the water jacket on these blocks? I wonder how much filling the block with filler to the bottom of the frost plugs would effect cooling?

Im in the middle of converting a 87 T1 daytona to T2 status also. Im afraid the bottem end will blow up the first week i have it back together. Since i dont have the money to buy a new block and T2 internals and junk, what should i do? I was thinking about just getting a grainger valve and setting the boost level way low untill i can rebuild the bottem end. Would this be the best idea in my situation?

Quote:

Originally posted by Skull Im in the middle of converting a 87 T1 daytona to T2 status also. Im afraid the bottem end will blow up the first week i have it back together. Since i dont have the money to buy a new block and T2 internals and junk, what should i do? I was thinking about just getting a grainger valve and setting the boost level way low untill i can rebuild the bottem end. Would this be the best idea in my situation?

If you want to save the bottom end DO NOT get a grainger, just let the ECU control the boost. The ECU has wastegate tables that do not allow peak boost until a safe RPM. With a grainger you make full boost at like 2500 RPM and that puts loads of stress on the bottom end. Just run stock boost controlled by the ECU, and you will be fine.

[ScottD]

87 turbodance - Go with a dual core intercooler. It will let you make more power at less boost. It will also keep the car more consistent at the track.

I would also go with a ported head (if you can) and a ported exhaust manifold. That will help you out as well.

I am in the same boat as you. I have an 87 Lebaron turbo that I'm converting to T2 and my goal is also to run high 13s. My original plan was to go with T2 rods and new pistons. However, I got nervous about putting lots of $ into the car in case I got in a pinch and needed to sell it. So I'm leaving my bottom end alone w/ LW rods and I'm going to use a dual core IC before I up the boost past cutout. I think I'm also going to use a ported exhaust manifold on the car as well.

With a P body you have a decided weight advantage, it is pretty light like my K-body and so you won't have to make as much power as say someone who is running a G-body or AA body.

well on the lw rods....im running a 89 daytona with a 87 bottome end 782 head mp314 cam map bleed no cat turbo muffler 2.5 intake manofold and 33 pph injectors and intercooler(stock t2) i have ran 17 psi on this set up and not a sign of danger or nothing 15.085 @15 psi with clutch slipping and passenger in the car so i dunno what to tell you i beat my car very hard and the only thing thats payin for it is the clutch(got the new one no money to put it in)