rebuilding 2.5 t1

ok i have some questions you guys can asnwer from me. i hoping i get the same answers and not a bunch of different ones like i was getting from other people. i am building a motor. i want it to stay together so i bought head studs, main studs, and arp rod bolts. with those three things i just said, what HAS to be done to the block or the rods or head to make sure everything is going to be right? i am putting all new short block parts in. new pistons, rods and crank. the short block is going to balanced and align honed. i am going to see how the cylinders are. if they aren't too bad i am going to have bored ten over. is there anything that i am missing?

[LancerShelby]

Ya, half of that stuff is un-needed. You don't need main or head studs, new rods and crank or even pistons for that matter(providing you don't bore the cylinders)

I'll tell you what I did for my current motor:
First, I found it on the ground a the wreckers all apart and covered in dirt.
Cleaned it of course.
Installed ARP rod bolts...when you do this you need to resize the rods.
Decked the block about .003"
Turned the crank .010"
Bored the cylinders .020" because they were scored. Unless your walls are bad, just do a re-hone.
Added Total Seal rings to stock cast .020" over pistons.
Put it together.

I use MP head bolts and an MP head gasket, NEVER had one problem with either.

[The Barron]

I gotta rig me up a ghetto engine lift and get on that same project myself.

LancerShelby,nice ride you have there,of course. I'd like to get some race stories from you or better yet some videos. I dont and cant hear enough 2.5L stories.

i know its over kill but i have some really bad luck motors and i feel the things i bought MIGHT make me feel a little more comfortable. i put the block on a engine stand today and checked all the cylinders. they are all in pretty **** good shape. not a score anywhere. actually my father checked them over too and he said a good hone and i could put some pistons in. the only reason i have it laying around is i spun a rod bearing in it was going to have it built but funds had to be used on something else. so now i am going to build it. thanks for your input. when i get it all done i will post some pictures.

[The Barron]

Sounds good. Let us know.

[LancerShelby]

Quote:

Originally posted by The Barron I gotta rig me up a ghetto engine lift and get on that same project myself. LancerShelby,nice ride you have there,of course. I'd like to get some race stories from you or better yet some videos. I dont and cant hear enough 2.5L stories.

Hehe, ok Give me some time, I just blew #4 piston yesterday.....d@mn cast junk Video's will start as soon as I get it running again....and on the dyno

[cawcislo]

I too had some bad luck with motors and headgaskets so forth. So when I built up my current motor I went all the way. Arp head, rod, mains, venolia forged, bored it out. What you need to do for arp stuff is. If you use arp main studs you need to align hone the block, and if you use arp rod bolts you need to have the rods resized.

[The Barron]

Well at 18Psi on cast it was a matter of time wasnt it? 14psi is the limit for me I had fun at a measly 5 psi. I imagin runin 9psi more with a MBC will be a hoot. Hopefully the tranny dosent explode.

Cawcislo,sounds like your putting togather a pretty solid unit. I'm just gonna run MP head bolts and gasket and see how she fairs.

thanks guys for your input. i am going to hava it all done then i will have it balanced and so forth. thanks again guys.

[86Shelby]

Listen to cawcislo, that's good info. I went with the ARP main studs, only after I found out that the main bolts had stretched. I didn't have the main bearing bores align honed, because of time and expense. The engine has had sounds that are supposedly out of round bearings(&bores). A local engine builder told me that I might be able to get 10k miles out of the engine before I spun a bearing bepending on just how out of round they are. Spend the extra cash with the studs and get the bores aligned honed.

[87turbodance]

Why do you need to get the bores align honed with floating wrist pined?