Cylinder/Piston Questions

[deuce]

Well I finally got around to pulling the cylinder head off of my 86 GLH-T. This job took me a while to do (6 hours, I'm new at this) I have a couple for you more experienced mechanics Keep in mind the engine is still in the car with the head removed.

1) What can be done while the head is off to ensure the cylinder walls do not rust?

2) After pulling the head I noticed that the pistons were loose inside the cylinder. By pushing on the pisotns, I was able to rock the pistons side to side in the cylinders about 1-2 mm I'm guessing. Does this mean I need new rings? If so do I also need to hone the cylinders?

3) Can I hone the cylinders myself or does this need to be done by a professional?

4) What would be some good things to check/replace while the head is off? I plan to convert over to TII status. Do the rods or crank need replacing?

5) Any other suggesions welcome

Thanks

4)

[Subliminal]

Quote:

Originally posted by deuce 1) What can be done while the head is off to ensure the cylinder walls do not rust? 2) After pulling the head I noticed that the pistons were loose inside the cylinder. By pushing on the pisotns, I was able to rock the pistons side to side in the cylinders about 1-2 mm I'm guessing. Does this mean I need new rings? If so do I also need to hone the cylinders? 3) Can I hone the cylinders myself or does this need to be done by a professional? 4) What would be some good things to check/replace while the head is off? I plan to convert over to TII status. Do the rods or crank need replacing? 5) Any other suggesions welcome

1. Just make sure it isn't exposed to the elements. Is the car outside with the head off? I would recommend spraying the cylinder with wd40, or just rubbing on some motor oil, then cover it up with some rags or a garbage bag or something, and stick a brick on it to hold it down.

2. I dunno.

3. Depends on how the cylinders look. Can you still see the factory honing marks? Is there any scratches or rust or anything? I got some surface rust inside my cylinders, and honing took care of it. I did have to replace the pistons, rings, and rod bearings in the process though.

4. To convert to t2 at this point you pretty much need the new intake, modified or new exhaust manifold, and the modified/new turbo.

I assume you took the head off with all the fixins?

d

[Shel-Game]

Quote:

Originally posted by deuce 2) After pulling the head I noticed that the pistons were loose inside the cylinder. By pushing on the pisotns, I was able to rock the pistons side to side in the cylinders about 1-2 mm I'm guessing. Does this mean I need new rings? If so do I also need to hone the cylinders? Thanks

1-2mm !!??!! The factory spec for piston to wall CL is less than 0.01" (I'm guessing, but I know it's that or less). 1mm = 0.04". And, the max overbore is 0.04". So, if you REALLY have 0.04-0.08" of piston to wall CL, you either need new pistons, or a new block, probably both.