Cleaning for new head gasket?

[GovtContact]

And after the palm sander, is the block truely level? If you are going to do something like this, go get a 12" single plain flat file (The grouves only go one way, not an 'x' pattern). Dont push on the ends of the file, but equally across the whole file lightly.

[iangoround]

yes, it is. the first time i used it i wasa bit nervous about how it would turn out. but i checked over about 50 times with a straightedge and feeler guages.

150 or finer grit sand paper isnt going to gouge the cast iron block unless you really really try. and even then its doubtful the sandpaper is that much harder than the block for it to do any significant damage

[GovtContact]

Okay.

The doubt was brought about by both of my grandparents (one a machinest, the other a Automotive instructor with several National VICA 1st place trophies. I use to get smacked on the back of the head if I tried to use a pair of pliers instead of the proper wrench)

[The S is Silent]

I took the head of my charger and havn't gotten around to putting it back on, and I'm going to be in chicago for the summer. I didn't even think about rust like that.

Would having somebody spray the cylinder walls with WD40 once a week until august be ok and keep everything rust free? What would y'all suggest?

edit: sorry about the hijack Ryan

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally posted by The S is Silent I took the head of my charger and havn't gotten around to putting it back on, and I'm going to be in chicago for the summer. I didn't even think about rust like that. Would having somebody spray the cylinder walls with WD40 once a week until august be ok and keep everything rust free? What would y'all suggest? edit: sorry about the hijack Ryan

Thats fine, better yet, coat the cylinders then ducttape over the top of the block. I did that after I put my new short block back in and had to wait to get my head done. No rust etc!

[MONK]

I agree with everything turbovanman said, especially the part about using a thread chaser instead of a tap!! I usually use a file to check for little burrs etc. that might be on the head that I can't see when i'm tired after being in the not very well lit shop for 14 hrs..
one question though, do head gaskets seal better with a slightly rough surface, or a mirror finish? i remember being told a few years ago by an engine rebuilder that some engines need a different finish than others, or was he mainly refering to high performance, high cost engines?

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally posted by MONK I agree with everything turbovanman said, especially the part about using a thread chaser instead of a tap!! I usually use a file to check for little burrs etc. that might be on the head that I can't see when i'm tired after being in the not very well lit shop for 14 hrs.. one question though, do head gaskets seal better with a slightly rough surface, or a mirror finish? i remember being told a few years ago by an engine rebuilder that some engines need a different finish than others, or was he mainly refering to high performance, high cost engines?

Thanks! yeah, your right about the finish. I was told to consult the gasket manufacter, they have a finish that they specify that makes there gaskets work the best. I have heard smoother is better, rougher is better etc. Still don't know either. If its machined from the shop, I leave the finish. I use the plastic roloc discs on the dirty surfaces to remove rust and gasket buildup. They don't leave tiny metal particles of carbide in the pan and don't grind down the surface!

[Mopar_Nutz]

I always scrape both surfaces (CAREFULLY on the head) with a razor blade. Then clean with paint thinnner, followed by acetone to get rid of any residue. And keep cleaning till the rags come back clean

[MONK]

thanks turbovanman, I also use the yellow roloc disks, ever since we put head gaskets on a reman short block "GM" reman by another company... long story short, used scotch bright pads, thought everything was spotless, wiped out bearings 1 month later, no warranty!!! bad deal, cause, metal oxide particles in the oil cooler and on the bearings...live and learn...

[turbovanman]

That hasn't happened to me yet, knock on wood, :big grin: but it did to my friend when I worked at the dealer, wiped out the bearings. Our engine reman shop has a disclaimer about using those scotchbrite pads and also to bypass the oil cooler or replace it with a new one!!!