Oil pump question

[gerber1125]

OK
i have no oil pressure, so i figure the pump went bad, even though it is brand new, or something isn't properly aligned or installed correctly

anyways, should there be gasket material between the oil pump and where it bolts to the block?

if not, would this affect how the car runs if there was sealer there?

there is some kinda thick oil at the bottom of my pan when i took it off the past two times, is this normal?

On a side note, it looks kinda metally when you look at the oil, and i dont' think it should be so dark after only running the engine 5-10 minutes after changing the oil, i think its dark anyways.

any help??
Justin

[gerber1125]

another thing

i took off the oil feed line to turbo the one day when i was wondering about oil pressure
i started the car with the line off at the oil sender block thing
and the oil wasn't coming out of the open hole
shouldn't it be like pumping out at a pretty high flow rate?
or should it be barely coming out, just enought to lubricate the turbo?

[ROCKHILL]

most oil pumps do not have a gasket. oil should be comming out of your line. you might have got a bad oil pump, sealer may have stuck the pressure relief valve wide open, or ive even heard of oil pump pickups being to close the the bottom of the oil pan. i have maybe 6 mos on my oil, only 200 miles, and it still looks like new. hope ive helped, good luck mang.

[turbovanman]

Sounds like relief valve is stuck open. Also, with all that crap in your oil pan, sounds like you might have toasted your bearings. I would pull all your rods and main caps and inspect and check to see if the oil feed line to the turbo is clear. Its possible your turbo is damaged.

[lametec]

Could also be that the pump wasn't primed.

The oil pump requires oil inside it to start pumping.

[gerber1125]

what's the proper way of priming an oil pump before starting?

[turbovanman]

You could pack the oil pump with vaseline or trans gel-don't use wheel bearing grease as it won't dissolve. I usually just keep the plugs out, fill up the crankcase, disable fuel pump and crank till the idiot light goes out or guage shows pressure. Done that for many years and no problems.

[lametec]

Quote:

Originally posted by gerber1125 what's the proper way of priming an oil pump before starting?

"Proper" way is to take off the timing belt and distributor. Then turn the intermediate shaft using either the bolt on the sprocket or the slot in the oil pump drive (in the hole where the distributor mounts). Use an electric drill to turn it.

[Turbofreak]

I have had problems before with getting my oil pump to prime after an oil change or when starting up a new engine with the pump packed even with vaseline-etc...

THis is what I do...

After it has oil in the pan... but no filter on yet...

I pour/ squirt 90wt oil (not grease!!) down the side-feed hole that goes down to the pump (this is actually where the pressurized oil comes directly out of the pump...

once I have sufficiently spilled/squirted a decent amount of oil down the hole... I fill up the oil filter with as much oil as I can get into it, then spin it on very fast to keep from spilling any more oil all down the front of the block (crappy oil filter placement!!!)

Then, I prime the engine by turning it over with the coil wire off... usually builds pressure in about 2-3 turns.. I turn it over 2-3 more times... replace the coil wire... fire up.. oil pressure goes to max instantly!!

Just another way to skin the cat...

RYNO
omnilet

[gerber1125]

Quote:

Originally posted by lametec "Proper" way is to take off the timing belt and distributor. Then turn the intermediate shaft using either the bolt on the sprocket or the slot in the oil pump drive (in the hole where the distributor mounts). Use an electric drill to turn it.

does that mean i would have to reset the timing all over again
i.e. line up the dots on the crank/int. sprockets and the cam sprocket and all that jazz?

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally posted by gerber1125 does that mean i would have to reset the timing all over again i.e. line up the dots on the crank/int. sprockets and the cam sprocket and all that jazz?

Yep, or you can use my method! "thumbs up

[gerber1125]

instead of disabling fuel pump, could i make it so it doesn't start
by taking off coil wire, or spark plug wire, or whatever the method?

and what you mean pack the pump with vaseline, just like it sounds?
fill the pump with vaseline, install it, and crank it but not start till pressure builds?
and what do you mean "keep the plugs out"?

[lametec]

instead of disabling fuel pump, could i make it so it doesn't start
by taking off coil wire, or spark plug wire, or whatever the method?
Yes. I usually just yank apart the two connectors for the HEP. That keeps spark and fuel from working.

and what you mean pack the pump with vaseline, just like it sounds?
Yes. Although not fill it. If you take the pump apart you'll see the moving parts inside. Coat these with a liberal amount. Pouring some oil into the hole in the block is a lot easier once the engine is together, though.

fill the pump with vaseline, install it, and crank it but not start till pressure builds?
Yep.

and what do you mean "keep the plugs out"?
Remove spark plugs to make cranking easier and take compression pressure off the bearings.

[gerber1125]

pouring oil in what hole in the block
the hole where the distributor goes above the pump
or the hole in where the oil filter goes (where the oil from pump comes up)
thanks, Justin

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally posted by lametec instead of disabling fuel pump, could i make it so it doesn't start by taking off coil wire, or spark plug wire, or whatever the method? Yes. I usually just yank apart the two connectors for the HEP. That keeps spark and fuel from working. .

or at the fuel rail, disconnect the injector harness-this stops fuel from spraying down the bore and filling up the chambers with fuel.

Unless thats what he meant-don't personall know what HEP means, doh!