Taking the Block to the Machine Shop

[deuce]

Besides having a machine shop clean, check my block for cracks, and hone my cylinders, what else should I have the machine shop due to my bottom end? By the way my motor is out of a 86 GLH-T. This is a non-common block T1 correct? If I want to upgrade to TII rods and pistons, do I need to get the machine shop to resize my rods? I am not even sure what that means but I read that it needs to be done on the dodgegare.com. What all should I have the machine shop due to make sure I rebuild the engine right? If you can't tell, I am new to engine rebuilding. Any information is greatly appreciated.
Thanks

[purevl]

a few things that you might consider, having the surface of the block checked for flatness and having material removed if necessary, this process is called 'decking'. you can also have it "align-bored', which is very similar to the prcess of honing a cylinder, except it is through the main bearing surfaces, it is done to ensure that they are both aligned perfectly with each other, as well as perpendicular to the surface of the block. another thing you might want to consider is renting a torque plate when you have your cylindfers bored/honed this is designed to simulate the distortion created when you bolt your head to the block, so that the bores are straight in a real world situation, these were initially designed for inline six-cylinders, where this was a serious problem, wheter or not you get one really depends on how far you want to take this engione, some people swear by them, others don't feel they are worth it. also, if i am not mistaken, your block has, 10mm headbolts, you could have it dcrilled and tapped to receive the newer 11mm bolts opr even 1/2 studs available from arp. your block is a pre-commonblock. resizing typically refers to one of two things, removing damaged material from a bearing surface and then installing larger bearings, such as having your crank turned if it is beyond service limits, or in the case of high performance connecting rods, it can mean having them retrofitted to receive larger wrist-pins. hope this covers some of the basics for you, although i am sure i have overlooked something, and there are hundreds of procedures, such as shot-peening, magnafluxing, hot-tanking, knife-edging, coating etc. that would take hours to explain, the best thing to do is probably to ask your machinists what he would suggest, and ask a lot of specific questions, it is your money!! lastly, because someone else will say it if i don't, if you plan on really going nuts with this engine, it's probably a good idea to just go ahead and swap to a commonblock, you can get a bare block for about $50-$75 (Tip: look for the blocks with a "C" embossed on the lower front potion, these have higher nickel content) sorry to be so long-winded hope this helps some, and if all else fails, ask more questions, the people on here are very helpful good luck

[deuce]

Thanks for the reply. I thought about getting a common block but I am not looking to run more than 200hp with my GLH-T. Do you know if TII rods and Pistons will fit in my 86 pre-common block engine?
Thanks

[speed8988]

I would also have your TII rods machined for ARP rod bolts too.

[purevl]

nothing comes to mind, as far as reasons it wouldn't work, but i am not as knowledgeable on the older engines as some of the other members. some good resources for information are thedodgegarage which you likely already knew about, and the MP book for 2.2 and 2.5 liter engines, which deals primarily with these older blocks. but like i said, i have had no reason to research them, and therefore can't give you a definitive answer. you might try reposting this specific question under its own heading, so it will attract more attention, people on here tend to respond better to specificity. alternatively, you could run a search, as someone as likely asked this question before. hope this helps

[TurboChry]

To "re-size" a connecting rod refers to the big end, not the pin end. The mating surface of the cap (or cap and rod) are ground down making the bore smaller. It is then bored ,or usually honed, back to standard size. This is a must if the rod bolts are replaced. They are out anyway if you grind both sufaces.
I charged $6 for "check rod"(grind cap only) or $12 for "re-con rod"(grind both surfaces).
BTW: A balance job is money well spent.
Hope that helps.
Jim
edit>> I guess to answer the question...If you buy re-man rods they are ready to install. If you buy used rods, it would be wise to have them checked.

[eef mcglikn]

having just found a 2.5 this is great info....thanks

eef

[glhsken]

Quote:

Originally posted by deuce Thanks for the reply. I thought about getting a common block but I am not looking to run more than 200hp with my GLH-T. Do you know if TII rods and Pistons will fit in my 86 pre-common block engine? Thanks

Yes, Bolt in. I've done it a few times. I didn't resize mine, and it lived, But that is NOT the correct way.

If you have the time, get it done.