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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 05-31-2004, 08:09 PM   #46
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by UnaClocker
As for rod shifting a 523/568, it's a different shifter setup, you'd probably have to be an engineer and fabricator to pull it off.

Ya haven't seen a 568 and a 555 next to one another have ya? It would be just as easy to adapt a rod linkage to a 523/568 as it is to adapt it to a 520/555. When side by side there are only two obvious differences between the transmissions as a whole. Cast endplate cover and the extra seletor shaft on the top of the 568. Easy work if you want to do it. If you play with the shifter housing and selectors you will notice what the trick is.
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Old 05-31-2004, 10:17 PM   #47
 
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Yeah, I definately don't understand the difference between the 3 plane and 4plane shifters. I've yet to really find a good explanation of them and how they are different.
 
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Old 06-01-2004, 06:59 AM   #48
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by UnaClocker
Oh darn. So running 15's in a fully loaded car with no intercooler or gauges is too slow for you? Well damn, that must make my transmission knowledge useless. You've never even used a 523 or 568.
Whatever.. Run a 520, knock yourself out. I'll run 523's.
No, I run 555's. wether I've used a 523 or not does not change the basic fact. The 555 is stronger than a 523.

Koreth, The way the thread moved to trannies was evident. Unaclocker gave someone bad information and it was corrected.

He has doen this often on the board. He can't take having information he gives corrected. He is 1 more post from leaving the site.
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:32 AM   #49
 
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Oh, and YOU CAN take having your information corrected? I've yet to see that.
 
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Old 06-01-2004, 10:47 AM   #50
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by UnaClocker
Oh, and YOU CAN take having your information corrected? I've yet to see that.
I've yet to see Ken NEED correcting wise-@$$.

What most of you guys don't get is that we mods are friends off this board. That doesn't mean we ourselves are beyond mistakes and correction, but it does mean that we sure discuss things and make sure we get our junk straight before coming here and passing on information to others.

Times like these I wish I had not stepped down as a moderator...
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Old 06-01-2004, 01:36 PM   #51
 
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So I know this is way off topic now with trannies but I feel since I started the thread I am in the right by posting this:


What is the number or code for a neon tranny, specifically the 3.94 final ratio tranny that came in R/T's and some SC's that had DOHC's. Also any interchangeable parts besides the shifter?

BTW: I cut my stock neon shifter a little over 2 inches, used booger bushings on the tranny end and adapted spherical rod ends onto the shifter side (for strength but it also gets rid of ANY feeling of rubber). I also cut the balance weight on the end of the gear select lever.

This shift setup, I believe, could only be improved upon in two ways, each one shortening the throw. First use a MPP short throw and cut it, next use the MC Fabrications shortened gear select lever or shorten the rod yourself with a drill and a bolt.


As I said before I'm not sure how relevant this information is for TD's, but it may help some.
 
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Old 06-01-2004, 04:45 PM   #52
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by 86Shelby
Ya haven't seen a 568 and a 555 next to one another have ya? It would be just as easy to adapt a rod linkage to a 523/568 as it is to adapt it to a 520/555. When side by side there are only two obvious differences between the transmissions as a whole. Cast endplate cover and the extra seletor shaft on the top of the 568. Easy work if you want to do it. If you play with the shifter housing and selectors you will notice what the trick is.
But what are the advantages of a rod-shifted setup? Is it more durable, or smoother or firmer or shift faster or shine real pretty like, or just cool in general?
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:10 PM   #53
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by Koreth
But what are the advantages of a rod-shifted setup? Is it more durable, or smoother or firmer or shift faster or shine real pretty like, or just cool in general?
Check out this thread. Good opinions. Remember, that's all they are; opinions. Heim-joint rod shifter in A555 or A568?
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Old 06-01-2004, 08:24 PM   #54
 
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In my oppinion (good enough disclaimer?) the rod shifter gives better feed back and requires less effort to shift (your not dragging cables through tubes). I've read that it's easy to change the geometry with heim joints to make it as short of a throw as you want. I haven't messed with setting up heim joints myself though.
Quote:
Originally posted by Koreth
But what are the advantages of a rod-shifted setup? Is it more durable, or smoother or firmer or shift faster or shine real pretty like, or just cool in general?
 
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Old 06-01-2004, 09:05 PM   #55
 
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shifter feel will always be a matter of personal opinion. i drove my brother's GLH-T for a few hours the other day and i'd have to say that the rod shifter setup in the car seemed to require a little more effort than the cable shifted cars i have driven. i like the 'clunky' feeling of it to be honest but it seems like you just need to be more careful when shifting or you'll miss a shift. i probably would have liked it more if i had gotten used to it and drove the car a little more. i like the A568 in my GTS but it still feels a little too mushy for my taste and i have missed shifts because of that. i would try the booger bushings if i wasn't planning on having my A555 back in the car this month. i definately like the 'regular' shift pattern of the A523/A568....mostly because the Getrag in my Cutlass has the same shift pattern and i'm used to it. the fact that you can easily get a Neon short throw shifter for it is another plus.

hands down the best shifter feel (IMO of course) is the A555 with the '89 style shifter. kinda clunky (as in NOT mushy), gives a nice 'positive' feel going into gears....not bad like the A525 rod shifter cars i've driven but not mushy like the A568 in my GTS. perfect.

i'm looking forward to losing the A568 and getting the A555 back again...just like i'm looking forward to losing the 2.5 and getting the 2.2 T2 back
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Old 06-02-2004, 08:43 AM   #56
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by UnaClocker
In my oppinion (good enough disclaimer?)
Yes, thank you and an appropriate place for an opinion. Trans strength is not.

I guess I'm just old, I really like that "positive" feel going into a gear. 555's have always shifted true for me. No effort.

I did have Mystry guy tell me I needed to shorten the shifter. Easy for him to say, he's not 6'3" reaching to the floor for a shifter.
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Old 06-02-2004, 10:25 AM   #57
 
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hey ken....

while we are still on transmissions.... taking the differential out of the picture (as the 2 pinion sucks... though i worked over mine with an abi pin, case savers and a t-trac <--- already had it)

how much of a difference would you and the other tranny breakers/builders say there is strength wise between the 568 and 523 or the 555 and the 520 with a chrome moly plate? ive never broken a td tranny (as i havent been into them that long.... im sure i will as all i have right now is a handful of 523's and some autos laying around) but ive wrecked a few others included that dreaded sho tranny. thanks

Brian
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Old 06-02-2004, 05:25 PM   #58
 
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Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
hey ken....

while we are still on transmissions.... taking the differential out of the picture (as the 2 pinion sucks... though i worked over mine with an abi pin, case savers and a t-trac <--- already had it)

how much of a difference would you and the other tranny breakers/builders say there is strength wise between the 568 and 523 or the 555 and the 520 with a chrome moly plate? ive never broken a td tranny (as i havent been into them that long.... im sure i will as all i have right now is a handful of 523's and some autos laying around) but ive wrecked a few others included that dreaded sho tranny. thanks

Brian
Put the plate in, The 555 is the equal of the 568 (within reason) The basic difference with the 568 is that CAST cover on the gear box. It adds the strength the plate does for the 555.

Same thing for the 523 and 520. Their basic shortcomings are the finer gear set and 2 pinion.
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Old 06-02-2004, 08:36 PM   #59
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhsken
Put the plate in, The 555 is the equal of the 568 (within reason) The basic difference with the 568 is that CAST cover on the gear box. It adds the strength the plate does for the 555.

Same thing for the 523 and 520. Their basic shortcomings are the finer gear set and 2 pinion.
not exactly what i meant... i meant the relative strength of the lesser gearbox to its stronger family counterpart. ie the 520 to the 555..... and the 523 to the 568.

Hehehe,

Brian
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Old 06-02-2004, 09:28 PM   #60
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The 2.2 and 2.5 share the same bore size 3.44 " the 2.2L has 3.66 stroke and the 2.5 has a 4.09 stroke (more leverage) I know most of you already know this just a review for the new guys... horsepower is rated at high engine speed and torque is rated at the low engine speed (measuring V.E and BSFC) What chokes off the 2.5 in stock configuration is the head .....the 2.5 really benefits from a highly modified cylinder head. I have been running a 2.5 in my GLH since the common block came out 1989 .I have the rev. limiter set at 6650 rpm (I shift at 6300 rpm) but the motor makes power all the way up to 7200 rpm, the piston speed is off the scale at this RPM so it is not recommended to operate in that range, plus it aerates the oil way to much .
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