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06-09-2004, 05:04 PM
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#1
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Re-Ring, engine in car?
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rochester, MI/UNO, Lima, OH
My Ride: 1986 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 SOHC
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Is it possible? Does the crank come out? Can you just drop the pistons down through the bottom, put on some rings and slide the whole piston/rod assembly back up top?
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06-09-2004, 05:18 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Southwest PA
My Ride: '89 2.5 Turbo Spirit
Engine: 2.5 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.920
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If you HAVE to keep the engine in the car, pull the head, drop the oil pan, pistons out through the top, hone, drop the pistons back in and reassemble. Can't get the crank out easily.
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06-09-2004, 05:40 PM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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They HAVE to go out the top. Just did it to my daughters car.
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06-09-2004, 06:45 PM
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#4
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Windsor,Ont. Canada
My Ride: 91 Shadow ES
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.680
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must seperate the trans to take out the crank, so in reality the motor must be pulled to do so.. and yes u can re-ring /install new pistons how mentioned in above posts..
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06-09-2004, 09:37 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rochester, MI/UNO, Lima, OH
My Ride: 1986 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 SOHC
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I guess I have some decisions to make. Go through the trouble and hope that the bottom end isn't too beat up, or just build another motor and put it in later on.
I really don't know.
Is 80-105-105-105 THAT horrible? I know it isn't good... but it did get me 110.17 mph.
Would I be gaining power with more compression? I would assume so, but any "been there done that" scenarios?
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06-09-2004, 10:56 PM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Milw. WI
My Ride: No slicks Omni
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.036
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by GLHandGTS
Is 80-105-105-105 THAT horrible? I know it isn't good... but it did get me 110.17 mph.
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Boost makes up for a lot of things, 20% loss on a single cylinder is kinda bad. Check that piston and wall closely when apart, could just be rings but thats a bit of work to still be down 10% when done.
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06-10-2004, 08:18 AM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton NJ
My Ride: 94 Ford Lightning
Engine: 351W v8
Induct: N/A
1/4: 69.000
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re-ringing the engine isn't that bad of a job. I just did it, for the first time, with a little help from some people here.
Of course that car isn't running yet...but I have my dreams, ya know?
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06-10-2004, 01:54 PM
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#9
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Bear, Delaware
My Ride: 1987 Sundance
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.300
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I wouldn't use a compression test to check engine condition. I would perform a leakdown test, check this link and it will tell you how to make and use a leak down tester.
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
The only thing I would suggest is put a gauge on the supply air from the compressor. Use 100psi for the supply air, that way what ever the second gauge reads is the % leaking. ie. 100 psi supply air/80 psi on second gauge = 20% leakdown.
Guy Douglas
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06-11-2004, 05:50 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Rochester, MI/UNO, Lima, OH
My Ride: 1986 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 SOHC
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Thanks all, I will see what I need to do.
However, nobody has answered yet, will having solid 150 compression help my times/power at all? I've already gone 110.17 on those numbers.
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06-13-2004, 04:20 AM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2003
Location: VENTURA CO.> CALIFORNIA
My Ride: 86 GLHS
Engine: 2.2 Turbo Intercool
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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You'd have more power... but if your already hitting 110 then, maybe its more a question of traction with numbers. Whether or not better numbers are to to be achieved remains to be seen.
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06-13-2004, 10:15 AM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Lincoln, Ne
My Ride: 91 Spirit R/T
Engine: TIII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Of course you'll make more power. 3 of your cylinders are barely above the rebuild point, 80 is way below. I bet it idles around 10-12"hg, and misfires a fair amount as well. You may want to think about replacing the pistons while you're in there, make sure they are the stock pistons and replace them with stock bore pistons. Who knows, one could have gotten hurt on the way to your 110 mph trap speed runs.
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06-13-2004, 02:42 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: PA
My Ride: 88 Shadow
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by guyd_15
I wouldn't use a compression test to check engine condition. I would perform a leakdown test, check this link and it will tell you how to make and use a leak down tester.
http://www.xs11.com/tips/misc/misc3.shtml
The only thing I would suggest is put a gauge on the supply air from the compressor. Use 100psi for the supply air, that way what ever the second gauge reads is the % leaking. ie. 100 psi supply air/80 psi on second gauge = 20% leakdown.
Guy Douglas
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If he wouldn't have said this:
all modern inline fours firing orders are 1-2-4-3
it all would have been good
Like others have already said. a leakdown test is far superior to a compression test.
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