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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 08-09-2004, 02:10 PM   #16
 
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No, That is a different mod. Joe O'Conner's. That is NOT a street car.

basic mod is drill and tap a hole in the waterpump housing AFTER the impeller. Run a line up from it to the Drivers side of the head. Pumps COOL coolant into that area.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:25 PM   #17
 
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The coolant does not circulate enough around cylinder #4, it gets hot and hotter.

When the modification is made the coolant is taken directly from the water pump to the side of the head, sending cool water to the #4.

It only affects the head cooling, so I do not think the car will heat up slower or faster.
You probably will not notice.

-Bryan
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:29 PM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrboVan
The coolant does not circulate enough around cylinder #4, it gets hot and hotter.

When the modification is made the coolant is taken directly from the water pump to the side of the head, sending cool water to the #4.

It only affects the head cooling, so I do not think the car will heat up slower or faster.
You probably will not notice.

-Bryan
So if it doesn't make a difference-why do it?
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:39 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by turbovanman
So if it doesn't make a difference-why do it?
Are you kidding me?

Reread what I posted.
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:40 PM   #20
 
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Re-read what Bryan wrote...
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Old 08-09-2004, 02:55 PM   #21
 
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The way I understand it, because of the way the coolant passages are in the head, the back side of #4 doesnt get as much coolant flow by it as the other cylinders, causing that cyl to run a bit hotter. Even when the stat is open, the coolant flows in the path of least resistance - straight through the stat kind of bypassing #4. Of course there is flow by #4 just not as much as the others. Under extreme conditions with all else being equal, #4 is likely first to see the highest combustion temperatures. I think it would be best to run the 195 stat with this mod because the flow bypassing the stat. would definately make it run cooler. Makes sense to me but I doubt I'll do it.
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:16 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrboVan
Are you kidding me?

Reread what I posted.

Ok, sorry, my bad, lack of sleep, your saying it won't make a difference in the way it heats up, correct!

a 1000 apologies.
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:21 PM   #23
 
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O'Conners method WOULD make a difference. Gary's would not as is it still t-stat controlled
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:33 PM   #24
 
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I will try the waterpump to head mod as described when I change my engine!
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Old 08-09-2004, 03:45 PM   #25
 
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hey ken, what size line is recommended and at what point on the head is recommended? near the freeze plug? anywhere in particular. thanks

Brian
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Old 08-09-2004, 04:09 PM   #26
 
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Reeves Knows all that stuff. Actually not a big line.. 1/4" or 3/8". Reeves used braided. I know which side of the cam center is important, not sure which though. I know on my head it's towards the TB.. But I know 1 was set up off.. Not sure if it was mine
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Old 08-10-2004, 09:40 AM   #27
 
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thanks ken... can you have reeves shoot me the details or a pic or something? thanks

Brian
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Old 08-10-2004, 11:00 PM   #28
 
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O'Conners method WOULD make a difference. Gary's would not as is it still t-stat controlled
Thats why you ditch the thermostat all-together.
 
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Old 08-11-2004, 12:10 AM   #29
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glhsken
O'Conners method WOULD make a difference. Gary's would not as is it still t-stat controlled
I have no stat, running cool was never a problem with the Reliant... in the past anyways.
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Old 08-11-2004, 08:01 AM   #30
 
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We're talking about street cars I thought. I sure wouldn't want to run down the road without a t-stat.
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