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08-09-2004, 02:10 PM
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#16
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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No, That is a different mod. Joe O'Conner's. That is NOT a street car.
basic mod is drill and tap a hole in the waterpump housing AFTER the impeller. Run a line up from it to the Drivers side of the head. Pumps COOL coolant into that area.
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08-09-2004, 02:29 PM
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#18
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by TrboVan
The coolant does not circulate enough around cylinder #4, it gets hot and hotter.
When the modification is made the coolant is taken directly from the water pump to the side of the head, sending cool water to the #4.
It only affects the head cooling, so I do not think the car will heat up slower or faster.
You probably will not notice.
-Bryan
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So if it doesn't make a difference-why do it?
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08-09-2004, 02:39 PM
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#19
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MN
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by turbovanman
So if it doesn't make a difference-why do it?
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Are you kidding me?
Reread what I posted.
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08-09-2004, 02:40 PM
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#20
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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Re-read what Bryan wrote...
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08-09-2004, 03:16 PM
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#22
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by TrboVan
Are you kidding me?
Reread what I posted.
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Ok, sorry, my bad, lack of sleep, your saying it won't make a difference in the way it heats up, correct!
a 1000 apologies.
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08-09-2004, 03:21 PM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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O'Conners method WOULD make a difference. Gary's would not as is it still t-stat controlled
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08-09-2004, 03:33 PM
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#24
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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I will try the waterpump to head mod as described when I change my engine!
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08-09-2004, 03:45 PM
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#25
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: PirateSwashbucklers.awesome
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Reliant
Engine: 2.5L T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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hey ken, what size line is recommended and at what point on the head is recommended? near the freeze plug? anywhere in particular. thanks
Brian
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08-09-2004, 04:09 PM
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#26
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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Reeves Knows all that stuff. Actually not a big line.. 1/4" or 3/8". Reeves used braided. I know which side of the cam center is important, not sure which though. I know on my head it's towards the TB.. But I know 1 was set up off.. Not sure if it was mine
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08-10-2004, 09:40 AM
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#27
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: PirateSwashbucklers.awesome
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Reliant
Engine: 2.5L T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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thanks ken... can you have reeves shoot me the details or a pic or something? thanks
Brian
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08-11-2004, 12:10 AM
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#29
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Oakdale CT
My Ride: Reliant
Engine: SOHC 2.5 8V
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 10.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by glhsken
O'Conners method WOULD make a difference. Gary's would not as is it still t-stat controlled
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I have no stat, running cool was never a problem with the Reliant... in the past anyways.
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08-11-2004, 08:01 AM
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#30
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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We're talking about street cars I thought. I sure wouldn't want to run down the road without a t-stat.
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