cast or forged

[Turbofreak]

WEll...

What about what I did.... I drilled and tapped a hole on the end of the cylinder head and installed a "T" where the bottom of the "T" has a 3/8 pipe thread that screws into the cylinder head on the #4 end.... The other two sides of the "T" are -8AN that I use as a water coolant line coming from my turbo that go into the fitting at the bottom of the water box.... so, all the water is still controlled by a thermostat, same as before, but I feel that this outlet for the hot #4 water in the head should work fine.... if it is hot, it should push out into the turbo water coolant line....

WHat do you guys think?

I do know that the fitting in the head is larger (3/8 pipe) and has a larger internal hole than the rest of the turbo cooling system, which is 1/4 pipe to -8an....

I have blocked off my heater hose fitting on the bottom of my water pump housing with a 3/8 pipe plug, so I guess I could always just do the mod where I run a line from the water pump housing up to the side of the head where I already have it drilled and tapped for my "T" fitting....

It does look clean there on the side of the head though...

ANy ideas?
RYNO

[NeonShowCar]

Quote:

Originally Posted by gakali With regards to pistons. I cant see making more then 300 HP on my new 2.2 motor. Do you think the Mahles would be OK? I know that its not the high boost or power that kills pistons its the detonation and extreme temps. Those last 2 things if ignored will kill any piston, cast or forged. I may end up going with the FWD Mahles and just being really carefull, as I would anyway. The extra $ saved would go a long way towards other stuff. This is a bit of a double post, I just want as much input as possible. Thanks.

To get back to your inital question, yes the Mahles would be fine. The top ring land is around 8mm (pretty thick). Just make sure you don't lean it out too much or else you'll melt a top ring land or microweld the top rings. Even if you had forged pistons this is not a guarnetee that you will not melt a ring land or put a hole in the piston. They can just handle more abuse then stock cast piston. Remember more fuel is good - but also, "Lean is mean" (think that was a Dean Stillie saying at one time).

Garry W. McKissick

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhsken We're talking about street cars I thought. I sure wouldn't want to run down the road without a t-stat.

Agreed, you will cause more damage than good, besides improper warm up, oil doesn't get hot properly, accelerated ring and engine wear etc.

[moparzrule]

I foresee a couple people's piston rings not lasting very long...

[glhman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by moparzrule I foresee a couple people's piston rings not lasting very long...

Meaning?

[Ben Paquin]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhman Meaning?

There isn't any subliminal message here.

[glhman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ben Paquin There isn't any subliminal message here.

So he's not saying anything about which pistons to use?

[moparzrule]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhman Meaning?

Running no T-stat makes the engine run pretty cold, which wears the piston rings like crazy. Even a 160 T-Stat will have piston ring wear. A 180- thermostat is just right.

[Aries_Turbo]

Dunno if itll work... only time and testing will tell.

as far as the mod for the head and your heater outlet. you cant do it that way. that is the suction side of the waterpump. you need it on the feed to the block between the impeller and the block. Then route it to the side of the head. Good luck.

Brian

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbofreak WEll... WHat do you guys think? I have blocked off my heater hose fitting on the bottom of my water pump housing with a 3/8 pipe plug, so I guess I could always just do the mod where I run a line from the water pump housing up to the side of the head where I already have it drilled and tapped for my "T" fitting.... It does look clean there on the side of the head though... ANy ideas? RYNO