Whitey Melted Down #3

[wild thing]

Quote:

Originally Posted by neon_steve As with the EGT's I will probably wire up all of them into the car, the meter that is in the car can have 2 inputs, may try to find a 4 input setup.

www.exhaustgas.com

They have multiple cylinder setups, I use one for my snowmachine. I imagine their stuff should work in our cars and I intend on trying them out. The only difference is that they're setup for 12Volts AC, I imagine they can do something though...

[neon_steve]

I think I am probably just going to use the omega meter that the car came with, just get a second probe that I can move around. I should have all of my "hard" motor parts by the end of the week. I still need to get the injectors checked, cleaned and matched. Anyone know a good place for that?

I had to take about a month break from even tinkering on the car, I was a little frustrated having just done the trans..

[Aries_Turbo]

check them in the garage with 4 graduated cyls and a spare pump lol. if they are really off then get a new one to replace the bad one. i dont think that andy had them on the car that long. i totally understand about wanting to take a break. you decide where you are getting it machined?

Brian

[neon_steve]

I'm gonna take it up to Rick, he is more familer with what I want to get done, and suggested the rods. You've had good luck so far too.

I think what might have happened with the injectors, is that the car sat for over a year, with out ever being run, I am guessing one got varnished up.

I plan on either modifying my fuel rail for AN fittings, or the billet rail, as well as finishing off the rest of the fuel system with AN stuff and braided lines for everything, and a canister fuel filter. Most of that is all low cost, and it will be easier with the motor out and the car way up in the air. BAD news is I filled the tank just before it blew up!! so I have like 12 gallons of fuel to siphen out(good news is thats enough for all winter with my 4 wheeler lol)

[Aries_Turbo]

Gotcha. yeah im on 7k miles with no problems. Rick is good. Heath has my deckplate so remind me to get it off of him before i go down this weekend. (homecoming weekend at school and stopping at Heaths house)

yeah FI's coulda been a little grungy but who knows. fuel rail is a good idea though they are pretty thinwall so i dunno how you are going to get that fitting in there. what material is the factory fuel rail? steel? aluminum? (ive never really checked lol) if its steel it would be an easy braze... if its aluminum i have that aluminum braze stuff or you could get it welded. who knows.

you can use a scanner to turn the fuel pump on or you can trigger the asd relay or manually feed power to the coil/pump to turn on the pump as well and have it pump the fuel out.

make sure you do the coolant mod from the pump to the head before you throw the motor back together.

[neon_steve]

Cool, I didn't know you had a deckplate.

Stock rail is steel, I have a mental picture of what I want to do, in another post it has been suggested to just get the billet rail. I was just going to cut the ends off the rail, plug the passanger side off (regulator side) and weld in a steel AN bung on the other side.

I'll just have someone crank the car when I have the injectors/manifold assembly over some beakers. I don't dare just put pressure to the rail with only the orings holding the injectors in. That would be a mess should one pop out. (bring back green colt memories?? when we where trouble shooting it and found the dead ECM, we blew an injector out of the rail) Speaking of colts, I hear one is now a lawn mower? LOL

I have seen that coolent mod, the one that pumps cool coolant in around #4. Still not sure what variation I am going to do..

[Aries_Turbo]

yeah i bought it a while back with the anticipation of using it ill be using it again soon lol.

you cant just plug the regulator side off. the regulator needs relocated past the 1st injector or that one gets starved. you want fuel in one end and regulator on the other a little past the last injector so they all get equal flow/pressure.

you dont have the injector clips? i have a bunch of them if you wanna use them. i myself used a 12v supply and i triggered them myself and used a spare pump.

yeah i blasted the green beast around the yard to cut down the field lol. worked great! marie took some pics but they are on paper so ill have to scan them lol.

i doubt that youve actually saw this one yet. if im not mistaken i believe the one that pipes out the coolant out of the end of the cyl fixed one problem and caused another. ill have to find you the details of the other style of mod. (Adding pressure to the side of the head directly from the perssure side of the water pump)

Brian

[neon_steve]

Yeah I saw that mod a while back, pressurizing #4.

I'm actually not sure if there are clips there or not, I guess I haven't looked it it that close?

Now in the stock setup, fuel inlet is on the pass side, so is the regulator. I know there is a tube runing to the opposite end (drivers side), so #1 is the last to get fuel in the stock setup as well? Still think there would be an issue with my brainstorm? (I just dont want to have to buy another AFPR for use with a non stock rail)

[Aries_Turbo]

there is an issue with the position of the stock regulator in high HP applications. I believe James Reeves toasted a piston or two cause of 1. the rail in its stock form period.. and 2. the position of the regulator itself... it "steals" all of the fuel from cyl #1. take that section of a spare rail and weld/braze it after #1... ie lengthen the rail a little.

Brian

[neon_steve]

I have to go look at my regulator, and see what I can figure out. I may just move the bung to the end of the rail, and add some tabs to bolt it back on. First things first, I have to get the rest of the motor out, and the head dissassembled this weekend!