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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 08-29-2004, 12:06 AM   #1
2.5 strength?  
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My t-2 finally quit on me and the only bottom end I have that is any good is a 2.5. I want to know how muck HP and how much boost a bone stock 2.5 can take. I plan on running 25 psi and making 300 hp (my old 2.2 made 318hp at 29 psi). Also, are the rods the same as in a t-2? Are the piston pins floating or pressed? Finally, when rebuilding a 2.2,2.5 for high hp will I need to replace the rod bolts?
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Old 08-29-2004, 08:24 AM   #2
 
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Not much... the pistons are the weak link. Put a GOOD set of forged pistons in and you have Reeves block.
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Old 08-29-2004, 08:24 AM   #3
 
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Rods are the TII rods, I would go ARP bolts for the rods.
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Old 08-31-2004, 03:18 PM   #4
 
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Mike,
What let go on the motor?
The motor I bought of of you had the #1 piston cracked. I had It tanked, checked and bored .020 over. I have the lower end back together now.

I hope you get It going soon, It will be late Sept/nov, if I get all my parts soon, till the Z wil be running.

Greg
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Old 08-31-2004, 09:39 PM   #5
 
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I haven't taken it apart yet but I'm guessing it's another cracked piston or crushed ringland. The motor still ran but had a lot of crank case pressure. The pistons all look good from the top. No. 1 had 50 psi compression., the rest 105-110. The head gasket was also blown on No.1. I thought that might be the only problem but it was not damaged anywhere near any oil passages. It looked as if it was damaged for some time now in one spot which may explain my decreased mph since the night I turned it up and got that 11 sec pass and 117mph. Since that night I don't think I hit 114mph.

Last edited by 8valveprick : 08-31-2004 at 09:48 PM.
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Old 08-31-2004, 09:51 PM   #6
 
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Mike,
What is it with the #1 piston and your cars?
Talk to you later.

Greg
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Old 09-01-2004, 06:20 AM   #7
 
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Fuel rail...
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Old 09-01-2004, 07:49 AM   #8
 
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I thought Mike modified the stock fuel rail.

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Old 09-01-2004, 08:25 AM   #9
 
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I've worked on 2 cars that made over or near 400WTQ. 1 peeled the ring lands off 2 JE pistons in #1. The other had lots of tiiming being pulled in #1. Both swapped to billet rails and no more issue.

1 car had a modified rail to begin with.

I'll add it was right at that mph range with a 2500lb car
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Old 09-03-2004, 12:14 PM   #10
 
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So what is it with the fuel rail causing the problems? #1 in my van went south also. I guess I have the same problem. Makes me wish I would have went with that billet fuel rail from TU.

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Old 09-03-2004, 12:56 PM   #11
 
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Jeff, you ran 16 psi on stock injectors and a stock fuel pump. That's what blew that piston.

It does appear that #1 is the first to go most of the time, though, huh?
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Old 09-03-2004, 01:20 PM   #12
 
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#1 is at the end of the rail "outside" the regulator...

Stock rails (even modified) seem to max out volume wise at about 350-375 wheel torque area. 325-350whp. No way running 14 psi your issue was the rail. If you are running too much boost for the injectors, #1 will starve 1st.
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Old 09-03-2004, 02:12 PM   #13
 
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So what is it with the fuel rail causing the problems?
The fuel inlet tube actually runs inside the rail all the way to the end. The fuel then has to turn around inside the rail and fill it from the opposite side. The inlet tube it self is too small to begin with. The tube inside also reduces the volume of the rail.
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Old 09-11-2004, 09:45 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8valveprick
The fuel inlet tube actually runs inside the rail all the way to the end. The fuel then has to turn around inside the rail and fill it from the opposite side. The inlet tube it self is too small to begin with. The tube inside also reduces the volume of the rail.
How can this be fixed? Is there a post with the info?
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Old 09-21-2004, 08:08 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by 90Acclaim
How can this be fixed? Is there a post with the info?
Good question

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