as always!!

[shadowdude]

here is my problem, i had the shadow(which has a built 2.5 turbo)out last night and was playing with the guys on the high way.i looked at the EGT gauge and saw that it was sitting at 1650 degrees at 130mph.it was there for 30 secs top.i tried a top speed run two more times at WOT@11psi,with intercooler each time it went to 1650 and for no more than say 25 secs or so.it has JE forged aluminum 8:1 pistons in it.the 02 is toast but at WOT it doenst make any dif.what happen was withen 30 minutes my #1 rod bearing pretty much heated up severly,enough to discolour the cap!!when i got home in swore for like two hours cause my 1 month old engine,3000 dollar engine!!,was now knocking loudly.the bearings are almost gone ,just a thin two pieces of metal is all that remains.they were pushed right out the sides of the cap .when i took the cap off it came off hard and when i tried to place it back on it goes on hard like it is warped .would a lean condition cause a bearing to spin like that?? it doesn,t make sense the other three are fine .what in the heck would cause a bearing to heat so much and practicaly crumble away?this motor has every thing done to it .now i suppose that in order to do it "right" i have to pull the crank and get it polished and the rod possibly resized.cant just put another bearing in there and go ??

[The Barron]

GGRRRRRRRRREFFF!!! OH MAAANNN!!!

..now ya gotta pull the WHOLE FREAKN ENGINE,get the checked and the rod too. How are the REST of the bearings?

Your oil pressure was fine? Sure sounds like it wasnt getting any oil. I've heard of lean conditions burning pistons,headgaskets and other stuff in direct contact with the combustion area.. but the rod bearings? Sounds like in SOME way or another it was starved for oil.

[89daytonaTII]

probably won't be able to just get a polish if the bearing spun like you say. Likely will need to have the crank turned and oversize bearings used.

[shadowdude]

Barron,grrr is an understatment!!! the other bearings,the # 2 3 4 caps are not discoloured and it doesn,t seem to be showing any signs of the bearing comen out the side.i think it was oil starved or to tight .now it just a matter of wasting my breath with the shop that did it .i am gonna probably get 50 different reasons why it was MY fault and not theirs!!

[lametec]

Could be you were detonating in #1. The pressure spike from detonation can pound bearings flat.

[Tim_K]

If the rod cap was discolored from heat, it wasn't detonation. The bearing wasn't getting enough oil flow.

When you get the engine redone, have the machine shop drill out the oil feed holes going from the main oil galley to the 5 main bearings.

These are the holes in the BLOCK, not the holes in the crank. They are only about 1/4" diameter from the factory, which is not enough.

Drilling out those oil supply holes is common in Mopar /6 and V-8 performance motors, yet I've never heard of anyone but me doing it with Turbo Fours.

I had the machine shop doing the work on my new 89 2.5 common block bore them to 9/32", and they said it made almost no size change. So I'm going to have them redrill the holes to 5/16" or more likely 11/32". If needed, you can drill out the holes in the main bearings to match for maximum oil flow.

Think about it. These holes feed the mains and rods! A 1/4" hole is not enough!

And use full groove main bearings. You may have to get 2 sets of regular mains and use the grooved halves if normal full groove sets aren't available.

[turbovanman]

You had a oil issue. I melted 3 pistons recently and the rods looked brand new. I would say based on the fact you say the others are fine is that you had a clearance issue IE bearing to tight or too much rod side clearance, if the rod was resized, maybe it wasn't round or if it wasn't resized, the rod end was egg shaped, some crap went thru when first started and damaged the bearing. Possible detonation but highly unlikely as the piston would have broken first, forged or not.
Thats my 2 cents.

sorry for your engine troubles, I know how you feel, I just toasted my turbo, arggg!

[The Barron]

Yah its the pits gary. Sorry to hear about the trouble ALL of you are having over there. How's Rich's car doing?

I cant believe you payed THAT much for the JE's man!!!! I can get them shipped to my door for around $550!

..its alot like snakes and ladders isnt it?

[shadowdude]

yea i know, but honestly i looked hard and long just over a year ago and FM had them priced at 450 even now FWD performance has them listed at 445 US.just better exchange now of course!!as for snakes and ladders......whats a ladder nothen but going down here.

[Turbo Charger]

Quote:

fine is that you had a clearance issue IE bearing to tight or too much rod side clearance, if the rod was resized, maybe it wasn't round or if it wasn't resized, the rod end was egg shaped, some crap went thru when first started and damaged the bearing

They had that block for so Friggin long, they probably forgot to do something. Like that for example.

I really think engine shops should be responsible for breaking in engines, then they should be forced to give at least 30 day warranties. I guess that would be kinda hard though.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo Charger They had that block for so Friggin long, they probably forgot to do something. Like that for example. I really think engine shops should be responsible for breaking in engines, then they should be forced to give at least 30 day warranties. I guess that would be kinda hard though.

I completely agree if you buy a long block, it should have been dynoed so its broken in, oil pressure checked etc.
Warranty on performance engines is so hard to enforce, IE yeah man, I only had the boost up to 9 psi, whateverrrrrr, hahhhhaaa.
Sorry, I hope they check it out and find out they made a mistake.

[The Barron]

All I can say Gary is that I had my car up to 125mph on only 3-4 occasions. I KNOW at least TWO of these times I blew something. First time was the block heater and the second time it overheated SOMEHOW and damaged the block cause thats why its apart now...I gotta get the block all checked over cause its the ONLY stock part on the engine!

from PERSONAL experience I dont think a 2.5L likes to be held to the mat on the top end for very long. I may be off my nut.. but thats what I have found.

(160-180KM/h was usually sufficient to prove a point ..or win.

[shadowdude]

Barron true,i havent ever really held it there long,i dont like the fact that the turbo is wailing its ass off for a good strech and plus the heat that is generated,as for the shop,well it a REAL pain in the ass to have to remove it again let alone have to drive to Truro.bottom line is as much as it sucks ass it still has to be fixed and i just will have to try and see what these guys will do.it was a year long due to money and finding parts,it has been four days since ,and i am still trying to except it. but like i say what happend happend i have to fix it.now i am gonna go break some boards with my head

[The Barron]

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadowdude but like i say what happend happend i have to fix it.now i am gonna go break some boards with my head

True man.. true. Here is some Advil ... knock yourself out.

[moparzrule]

You may want to check the bearing and see if it was a .010 under bearing. Sometimes the parts people give you a whole set of standard bearings except 1, I caught it though before install, so I always check to make sure they are what I think they are before installing them. NOTHING can be assumed anymore.