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12-05-2004, 02:35 PM
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#31
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1986 Plymouth Horizo
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 11.705
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Originally Posted by clickhere33
Like I said in my previous post, the Mistu guys have good luck with them, but the eagle rods for our motors use smaller rod bolts, which i believe would compromise strength. The guys at Forward Motion agreed with me that the t2 rod was still a better choice.
BTW, I am friends with the guys from DSMotorsport, and they know the Horizon 
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Alot of it has to do with piston speed. I remember reading an article about how a few grams in piston weight can add up to hundreds to thousands of lbs of force on a rod or crank as piston speeds increase. In our case, our motors don't rev all that high, but because of the long stroke, the piston speeds are way way way up there, especially on 2.5's but 2.2's are an issue too. Mitsu and Neon 2.0's have much slower piston speeds at a given RPM. I would just NOT trust an Eagle rod to take the punisment our engines put on rods. There is a reason why Crower rods are twice the price as Eagles.
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12-05-2004, 10:35 PM
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#33
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: PirateSwashbucklers.awesome
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Reliant
Engine: 2.5L T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i guess I just dont understand.... no one has spoken anything concrete in here about the eagles....Id rather see: 1. car and motor type, 2. hp and rpm motor was at when broke 3. was it a good tune with no detonation and stuff. the only thing I see is that Leon revved his to 6500 and made 480 whp and didnt break them. im gonna look around. This isnt for my car anyway, I have Whitey at my house and my machinist is doing the motor for Frank and we dont wanna make a lousy decision.
Brian
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12-05-2004, 10:58 PM
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#34
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1986 Plymouth Horizo
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 11.705
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12-06-2004, 06:11 AM
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#35
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Not quite....
There is a factor I want to look into... Stroke to Rod Length Ratio.... A large stroke could cause to much side loading close to the tangent angle where max piston speed and leverage occurs.
Could be that we are mixing apples and oranges... grasping at straws here since I already have those Eagle rods...
Frank
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12-06-2004, 09:20 AM
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#36
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: PirateSwashbucklers.awesome
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Reliant
Engine: 2.5L T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Ok I see some bad stuff about them material and strength wise and then I see guys saying that they failed cause of lousy machining. Who am I to believe??? Both groups are a bunch of folks on an internet forum... I mean, my machinist has no problems with them and he is known in the area as the best... he's also built his entire life around engines for 30 years or so. He will also rebuild all of those rods if they are out of spec at all.... So who knows...
Brian
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12-06-2004, 10:57 AM
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#37
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1986 Plymouth Horizo
Engine: 2.2 Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 11.705
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by Aries_Turbo
Ok I see some bad stuff about them material and strength wise and then I see guys saying that they failed cause of lousy machining. Who am I to believe??? Both groups are a bunch of folks on an internet forum... I mean, my machinist has no problems with them and he is known in the area as the best... he's also built his entire life around engines for 30 years or so. He will also rebuild all of those rods if they are out of spec at all.... So who knows...
Brian
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Couple of questions... if you don't trust answers from a bunch of guys on internet forums.. why did you ask?
And 2nd... how much will you trust rods that were delivered to you being out of spec?!
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12-06-2004, 12:04 PM
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#40
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: PirateSwashbucklers.awesome
My Ride: 88 Plymouth Reliant
Engine: 2.5L T2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by contraption22
Couple of questions... if you don't trust answers from a bunch of guys on internet forums.. why did you ask?
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Not that I dont trust you guys (for the most part) but I was just pointing out that there were both sides being presented by guys I dont know as well as TD guys.
 Quote:
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Originally Posted by contraption22
And 2nd... how much will you trust rods that were delivered to you being out of spec?!
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Thats a little bit iffy but there in my hand already and I like to have anything checked regardless of the manufacturers reputation. even ARP's fail at times.
Brian
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12-06-2004, 05:13 PM
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#42
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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Ahh, good catch dude!
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12-06-2004, 05:40 PM
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#43
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ok,ok...
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Tyler, Tx
1/4: 0.000
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well... I sell eagle rods at the shop I work at...
I have personally not seen or heard of a failure that wasn't user induced... such as hydraulic'ing a cylinder with water (blown head gasket), or severe over-revving 10,000rpm with no forward loading (hit a wrong gear and let off)
Not saying they are fool proof or perfect or what-not...
I have actually heard of a couple of Oliver and Carillo rods letting go for no apparent reason at all, except for a manufacturing flaw....
I suggest these manufacturers...
GRP-Aluminum or Titanium rods
BME- Aluminum rods
Eagle - good H beams and I beams on a budget-but I think stock dodge rods are better...
Crower
Pauter
I personally have GRP rods for my 2.5L Turbo engine combo, but I wouldn't be afraid of anyone of the other rods...
I think the piston speed affects the wrist pin loading and thrust forces way more than it strains a strong rod at the rpms we are turning... Plus, another benefit is that we are more concerned with compression strength of the aftermarket rods, moreso than the decompression or exhaust stroke... especially because a turbo engine will keep the rod loading with force on the exhaust stroke (there is backpressure in the exhuast system, remember?...
This is why stock turbo dodge rods are good to about 400-450+hp with ARP bolts or even stockers if you feel lucky.... the rod's are good mind you, but they way surpass the 100hp/cylinder rule...
Remember this also, most rod manufacturers assume that the engine is Naturally aspirated, which means it will have to rev very high to make 100hp/ cylinder....
Eagle's are ok....
Everything breaks sometimes....
GOOD LUCK!!
RYNO
OMNILET
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12-07-2004, 03:33 PM
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#44
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Beaver Dams NY
My Ride: 2k2 Neon
Engine: 2.0
Induct: N/A
1/4: 16.420
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Wow I didnt realize the rod's I originally bought for the car that is now Franks were this controversial.. I poked around before I ordered them, and found mostly all good about the H-beam style rods. The only bad I had found was the remachining that needed to be done - however I didn't know they were made in china when I ordered them :-/ I went off Brian's machinist's experiance with them as the sell point beyond the research from the 'net. Hopefully all goes well for Frank..
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12-07-2004, 04:26 PM
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#45
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: www.TurboDodge.com
My Ride: 1991 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.000
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I think all will go well. I think there is confusion between the OEM I-Beams and these forged H-Beams. If the SRT guys are running big power, then i think I will have no problems. I think this because of similar stroke and rod lengths as the 2.4l engines.
Frank
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