Rod caps... stupid.

[Mike M]

Grrr!! I have a set of 88 T2 Rods resized with ARP rod bolts (Chrysler 340-344-360). I cannot get the damned caps off, I was just about ready to check my rod bearing clearances. These things are on there tight!! I scored up one of my rods a wee bit trying to get one of them off. I've managed to get it apart a bit (and by "a bit" I mean if I hold it up to the light I can see light between the cap/rod) - enough that I can see the bolts are the only thing touching, its like they're too big!

Quote from DDG: "Trivia question- Do you know what other mopar engine uses the same rod bolt as a 2.2? 318-360 V8"

Anyone else have this problem? Or any tips and/or tricks? And in the event I do actually get these things off - whats the torque spec for ARP bolts?

[puppet]

If a couple small putty knives won't slip between the cap and rod ... try putting a couple 3/8" nuts on the threads and sqeeze them together with a "C" clamp slightly. ... unless they need to be spread apart.

If you got them on they'll come off. ... unless you beat 'em on

[supercrackerbox]

I had to take a couple of small flat screwdrivers and kinda alternate tapping each side. Took a while, but they came off.

[Dale Nichols]

This is normal for arp bolts. This tight fit holds the rod cap straight in the same position that it was machined,so that it stays round.
If the rod is on the crank leave the nuts on the rod bolt, back them off even with the rod bolt. Tap them with a hammer, litely, alternating back and forth between the two. If the bolts start to back out of the rod stop!!!!!! You don't want this. You might have to have the rod reconditioned. If this doesn't work get a wooden ( shovel handel,broom stick,etc.) and tap on the piston pin bosses, be careful.
If the rod is out of the motor,(your machinest should have done this for you) and you don't have a rod vise, get yourself a round piece of hard wood, or plastic(about 2" in diameter), a small piece of a bat works great. Hold the rod by the small end, big end down and strike the inside of the rod cap, alternating from one side to the other.After you get a gap, you can take two screwdrivers, with the rod in a vise, and prise the cap off. Be careful not to scar the rod's mating surfaces.
Don't have my arp book,right now but any arp dealer can tell you the torque. There will be one torque with arp moly lube, another with oil. Be sure to pay close attention to the lube you use. It really makes a difference!!!!!!!
Forget about checking your rod clearance with plastic gauge.
Dale Nichols

[supercrackerbox]

I believe the torque spec was 50 ft lbs, loosen and retighten 3 times. May want to confirm it to be sure.

[86Shelby]

Quote:

Originally Posted by supercrackerbox I believe the torque spec was 50 ft lbs, loosen and retighten 3 times. May want to confirm it to be sure.

That would be correct! Be sure to use the ARP supplied lube on the threads and flat surface of the nut.


I do not know what the spec is when using something other than ARP's lube.

[86Shelby]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dale Nichols Forget about checking your rod clearance with plastic gauge.

Why? Now's the time to do it while the engine is being assembled. If the rods were machined incorrectly it will show up now. Unless you're talking about side clearance, which then you push the rod side to side to make sure it has clearance. and stick a feeler gauige in there to se if it's within spec.

Been there done that with incorrectly machined rods. The spec was perfect, but the metal shrunk when it cooled down a little bit. That extra shrinkage crushed the bearings too much and gave far too little bearing clearance. Yeah, it was all my fault since I did the machining. .0015" made one heck of a difference on the rod bearing clearance.

[Mike M]

Thanks guys - I'll keep chiseling at it. Glad to hear its normal with ARPs. I never put the caps on with the ARP bolts, machinist did. I had them off and on with the stock bolts, that was easy.

[glhsken]

I use a rubber hammer to tap the bolts.

[Glhs60]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhsken I use a rubber hammer to tap the bolts.

This is a much better way than trying to pry the cap off with something wedged between the cap and rod. As was mentioned do not let the rod bolt slide out of place in the rod. It takes a little practice to get the feel so be patient. If the rod is out of the engine I hold it by the cap and wack the bolts with the nuts in place but not tight with a rubber hammer. This is certainly the most critical area of engine building so any mistake here such as a wrong or reversed cap and you are done for. I always plastiguage and recomend any one with average tools do the same.
Thanks
Randy

[turbovanman]

Or use a brass punch on the bolts with a hammer, thats my weapon of choice. If the bolt does come out, doesn't mean the rod has to be resized, just be aware when you retorque that it will take longer.
Never put it back together without checking clearances, theres a guy on here that just did his bottom end and now it won't turn over, he didn't check his clearances!