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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 12-19-2004, 02:30 AM   #16
 
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I mean using your original 2.2 block with the 5.94 rods and using milled pistons. I don't think you could even use the long rods in the talldeck block and normal pistons with the 2.2 crank since the 2.5 talldeck used the 2.2 pistons. I have been thinking about doing a JY N/A engine like you for fun.

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Old 12-19-2004, 02:36 AM   #17
 
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Ahhhh, I see what you mean now. How much would you have to grind the pistons down so that it is still non-interference?

Actually, at this point, it isn't really a j/y motor, because I have all the parts lying around the house The only new pieces I need to pick up is going to be the megasquirt kit, a fuel rail for the 2 piece intake, and a turbo clutch kit. I might also get a new flywheel, because the turbo one I have is missing 3 or 4 teeth. It should still be fun, and it will handle hella awesome. It's time to find out the potential of the motor when it isn't choked by that crappy TBI intake manifold.
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Old 12-19-2004, 02:39 AM   #18
 
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What I did with my crank was had the counterbalances completely machined off then had the "Bare bones" crank balanced to 10,000 RPM. Don't know how much power it'll hold, I imagine just as much as stock seeing as how the strength shouldn't have been compramised, I think what I will do is put it in a different motor not my hybrid one that I'm building and try it out I've got the crank down to a scant 12lbs after all of that machining. My dad's good buddy works at the shop so he did it on the side as a project for me
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Old 12-19-2004, 02:42 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garret
What I did with my crank was had the counterbalances completely machined off then had the "Bare bones" crank balanced to 10,000 RPM. Don't know how much power it'll hold, I imagine just as much as stock seeing as how the strength shouldn't have been compramised, I think what I will do is put it in a different motor not my hybrid one that I'm building and try it out I've got the crank down to a scant 12lbs after all of that machining. My dad's good buddy works at the shop so he did it on the side as a project for me
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Old 12-19-2004, 02:46 AM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garret
What I did with my crank was had the counterbalances completely machined off then had the "Bare bones" crank balanced to 10,000 RPM. Don't know how much power it'll hold, I imagine just as much as stock seeing as how the strength shouldn't have been compramised, I think what I will do is put it in a different motor not my hybrid one that I'm building and try it out I've got the crank down to a scant 12lbs after all of that machining. My dad's good buddy works at the shop so he did it on the side as a project for me
I'll gladly try it out in my horizon lol, j/k.

Let me know how it turns out...I'm interested in how much it will increase the speed at which the motor gets through the revs.
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Old 12-19-2004, 02:49 AM   #21
 
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I'd let ya if you were closer cause I didn't pay anything for it... but it's a 2.5 Crank
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Old 12-19-2004, 02:09 PM   #22
 
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What about 2.2 crank longer rods and 2.5 pistons anyone tried that? (i dont' know if it would work) and maybe mill the tops.
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Old 12-21-2004, 04:57 PM   #23
 
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I did a little thinking on that. You could use the long rods in a 2.2 with the 2.5 commonblock pistons. The 2.5’s stroke is 12mm bigger than the 2.2’s. The long rods are 6mm longer than the standard 2.2 rods. So it will work but you will have lower compression especially if you use the G head. If you used the fast burn head you would have to have it planed so that you could get the compression up to make it a real screamer.

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Old 12-21-2004, 06:53 PM   #24
 
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Here is a picture (not great one) of my crank after I got it back from South Florida Crank. It is forged crank out of my TIII. After knife-edging it weighs 36 pounds...equal to a cast crank and 8lbs lighter than what I started with. Works great!
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File Type: jpg Knife Edged Crank1.JPG (93.9 KB, 91 views)
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Old 12-21-2004, 07:55 PM   #25
 
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You could always run flat tops, or miss a ton off the head. Out mud truck motor has .050" milled out and the c/r jumped from 8 to 9.5 heh...
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Old 12-21-2004, 08:06 PM   #26
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Garret
What I did with my crank was had the counterbalances completely machined off then had the "Bare bones" crank balanced to 10,000 RPM. Don't know how much power it'll hold, I imagine just as much as stock seeing as how the strength shouldn't have been compramised, I think what I will do is put it in a different motor not my hybrid one that I'm building and try it out I've got the crank down to a scant 12lbs after all of that machining. My dad's good buddy works at the shop so he did it on the side as a project for me
Do you think doing that to a forged crank would comprimise its strength? because of the way the crank was made perhaps?
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Old 12-21-2004, 08:13 PM   #27
 
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I don't think so as most of the strength isn't in the counterbalances, they are just that counter balances. that being said I'm not going to take the chance and put it in my 16v motor I'll try a spare 8v first
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Old 12-21-2004, 08:17 PM   #28
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89acclaim
I did a little thinking on that. You could use the long rods in a 2.2 with the 2.5 commonblock pistons. The 2.5’s stroke is 12mm bigger than the 2.2’s. The long rods are 6mm longer than the standard 2.2 rods. So it will work but you will have lower compression especially if you use the G head. If you used the fast burn head you would have to have it planed so that you could get the compression up to make it a real screamer.

Daniel
To use 2.5 pistons in a 2.2 combo you would need 6.18" rods which are ready available for our engines. That's the combo Iam starting to build.
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Old 12-21-2004, 09:47 PM   #29
 
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Yes, I was talking about the rods used in the 2.5 tall block that are 157mm = 6.1811". Though I was never intending to use the tall block rods in a turbo engine. Since they are 30.5 grams lighter while also being 6mm longer than the t2 rods. I haven't found any vender that sells flat top pistons for a 2.5 though... that is why I suggest milling the tops of 2.2 turbo pistons like 22dodge did. All of you guys are getting me thinking I might have to make a NA 2.2 for fun......

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Old 12-21-2004, 10:25 PM   #30
 
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The guy that I had do my crank knew his stuff. He was explaining to me that the TIII crank is computer designed and balanced. None of my throws look exactly the same because their weights had to fit into some algorithym. Strange huh? Well he said it was a masterpiece and it took him 10hrs. to do. He said it will not hurt the strength of the crank.
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