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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 12-20-2004, 12:24 PM   #16
 
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I'm running an LSD in mine, so if the elimination of the IS would help, I think I'll try it out.... I've just been to chicken to so far because when this thing would rip before, it would almost rip the wheel out of my hand.
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Old 12-31-2004, 03:16 AM   #17
 
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hmm has anyone tryed having their block cryo'ed yet? its supposed to help make it more durable.

thats a interesting theory about the intermediate shaft. kinda makes me glad i could'nt find a new one when i did my rebuild
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Old 12-31-2004, 03:32 AM   #18
 
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http://www.onecryo.com/onecryo/motorsp.htm

for anyone else interested in cryo treatment (im seriously considering it for my hybrid) looks like you can do a lot more than just the block

im sure its prohibitivly expensive though

*edit! just found another site with prices looks like its within range of the workin' man

http://www.cryopro.com/engine.htm

Last edited by Khajjathefang; 12-31-2004 at 03:47 AM.
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Old 12-31-2004, 10:17 AM   #19
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badtgp
Ok, who's pushed the common block passed its limits? I'm not talking about the internals, I have that covered. I'm talking the block itself. Anyone have any breakage stories?
I cracked a few common block's around the 450hp mark

since then i've been building them with billet 4 bolt main caps and arp studs never broke one again .running same engine for 3 years now
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Old 12-31-2004, 10:33 AM   #20
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMPerformance
I cracked a few common block's around the 450hp mark

since then i've been building them with billet 4 bolt main caps and arp studs never broke one again .running same engine for 3 years now
Sounds good. What peak torque are you making now?

Also, what axle setup do you run on the right side, equal length setup or long shaft?

Thanks,
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Old 12-31-2004, 10:51 AM   #21
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance
Sounds good. What peak torque are you making now?

Also, what axle setup do you run on the right side, equal length setup or long shaft?

Thanks,
ill just give you guy's an idea 611cfptrq at only 5600 RPM

i use long shaft set-up by Axle Systems Inc (1.34 best 60ft)never broke one
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Old 12-31-2004, 01:38 PM   #22
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMPerformance
ill just give you guy's an idea 611cfptrq at only 5600 RPM

i use long shaft set-up by Axle Systems Inc (1.34 best 60ft)never broke one
Holy cr@p! Sounds like you've tested torque for sure!

I'll have to look into Axle Systems too.

Thanks,
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Old 12-31-2004, 02:05 PM   #23
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance
Holy cr@p! Sounds like you've tested torque for sure!

I'll have to look into Axle Systems too.

Thanks,
call Tony at axle Systems 1-800-776-3365

il check with him so that he gives a discount to all the turbododge forums contributor's
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Old 12-31-2004, 02:30 PM   #24
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1badtgp
I'm going to be using the original block from my '90 ES Turbo. This one should have that extra beef correct?
There is a casting date on rear of block, will read 89
on a 90 model year, 90 on a 91 and so on.
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Old 01-01-2005, 02:51 AM   #25
 
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Sweet! and here i was thinking i would have to buy a new block i love this site
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Old 01-05-2005, 09:34 PM   #26
 
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Has anyone cemented their block? I've heard of V8 guys doing this. For an all out drag car it might be another option.
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Old 01-05-2005, 09:59 PM   #27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMPerformance
I cracked a few common block's around the 450hp mark

since then i've been building them with billet 4 bolt main caps and arp studs never broke one again .running same engine for 3 years now
Gotta love Stephane. He impresses me over and over again. I don't believe a single person did as much R&D as him on these machines, not even Gary.
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:10 AM   #28
 
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i realize this wouldn't work with a turbo, but has anybody thought of putting longer rods in a2.5? the reason i ask is because the 4.09 in. stroke and short rod is really hard
on wrist pins. whats happening is the rod is trying to push the piston through the
cylinder wall, creating more friction and wear. the only problem is finding a rod with small enough journals to come close to the 2.5 dimensions. also the reason it wouldn't work with a turbo or a supercharger is beause as rpms go up so does the copression in a long rod engine. it would idle fine even run pretty good but the boost at higher rpms would make for some SERIOUS detanation. maybe i should go talk to the n/a guys.
just a thought.
later,
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Old 01-06-2005, 08:49 AM   #29
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jammerz63
i realize this wouldn't work with a turbo, but has anybody thought of putting longer rods in a2.5? the reason i ask is because the 4.09 in. stroke and short rod is really hard
on wrist pins. whats happening is the rod is trying to push the piston through the
cylinder wall, creating more friction and wear. the only problem is finding a rod with small enough journals to come close to the 2.5 dimensions. also the reason it wouldn't work with a turbo or a supercharger is beause as rpms go up so does the copression in a long rod engine. it would idle fine even run pretty good but the boost at higher rpms would make for some SERIOUS detanation. maybe i should go talk to the n/a guys.
just a thought.
later,
jammerz63
And why won't long rods work with a turbo? Forward Motion can set you up.
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Old 01-06-2005, 12:28 PM   #30
 
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Well I don't know about putting longer rods in a common block 2.5, they have a short piston as it is. You could do a tall block 2.5, with 2.5 common block pistons, and a rod with a length around 163mm (rough calculation). Just some of my thoughts....

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