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12-31-2004, 03:16 AM
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#17
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cherry Hill, People's Republic
My Ride: 87' T-Top Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 T2, A555, open
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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hmm has anyone tryed having their block cryo'ed yet? its supposed to help make it more durable.
thats a interesting theory about the intermediate shaft. kinda makes me glad i could'nt find a new one when i did my rebuild
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12-31-2004, 03:32 AM
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#18
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cherry Hill, People's Republic
My Ride: 87' T-Top Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 T2, A555, open
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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http://www.onecryo.com/onecryo/motorsp.htm
for anyone else interested in cryo treatment (im seriously considering it for my hybrid) looks like you can do a lot more than just the block
im sure its prohibitivly expensive though
*edit! just found another site with prices  looks like its within range of the workin' man
http://www.cryopro.com/engine.htm
Last edited by Khajjathefang; 12-31-2004 at 03:47 AM.
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12-31-2004, 10:17 AM
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#19
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Granby, Québec
My Ride: Shelby charger
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 9.330
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by 1badtgp
Ok, who's pushed the common block passed its limits? I'm not talking about the internals, I have that covered. I'm talking the block itself. Anyone have any breakage stories?
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I cracked a few common block's around the 450hp mark
since then i've been building them with billet 4 bolt main caps and arp studs never broke one again .running same engine for 3 years now
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12-31-2004, 10:33 AM
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#20
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Chicagoland!
My Ride: 1987 Shelby Z
1/4: 11.620
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by SMPerformance
I cracked a few common block's around the 450hp mark
since then i've been building them with billet 4 bolt main caps and arp studs never broke one again .running same engine for 3 years now
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Sounds good. What peak torque are you making now?
Also, what axle setup do you run on the right side, equal length setup or long shaft?
Thanks,
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12-31-2004, 10:51 AM
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#21
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Granby, Québec
My Ride: Shelby charger
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 9.330
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance
Sounds good. What peak torque are you making now?
Also, what axle setup do you run on the right side, equal length setup or long shaft?
Thanks,
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ill just give you guy's an idea 611cfptrq at only 5600 RPM
i use long shaft set-up by Axle Systems Inc (1.34 best 60ft)never broke one
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12-31-2004, 01:38 PM
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#22
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Chicagoland!
My Ride: 1987 Shelby Z
1/4: 11.620
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by SMPerformance
ill just give you guy's an idea 611cfptrq at only 5600 RPM
i use long shaft set-up by Axle Systems Inc (1.34 best 60ft)never broke one
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Holy cr@p! Sounds like you've tested torque for sure!
I'll have to look into Axle Systems too.
Thanks,
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12-31-2004, 02:05 PM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Granby, Québec
My Ride: Shelby charger
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 9.330
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by BadAssPerformance
Holy cr@p! Sounds like you've tested torque for sure!
I'll have to look into Axle Systems too.
Thanks,
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call Tony at axle Systems 1-800-776-3365
il check with him so that he gives a discount to all the turbododge forums contributor's
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12-31-2004, 02:30 PM
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#24
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Milw. WI
My Ride: No slicks Omni
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.036
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by 1badtgp
I'm going to be using the original block from my '90 ES Turbo. This one should have that extra beef correct?
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There is a casting date on rear of block, will read 89
on a 90 model year, 90 on a 91 and so on.
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01-01-2005, 02:51 AM
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#25
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Cherry Hill, People's Republic
My Ride: 87' T-Top Shelby Z
Engine: 2.2 T2, A555, open
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Sweet! and here i was thinking i would have to buy a new block  i love this site
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01-05-2005, 09:34 PM
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#26
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Oak Harbor, WA
My Ride: '87 GLHS #369
Engine: 2.2 sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Has anyone cemented their block? I've heard of V8 guys doing this. For an all out drag car it might be another option.
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01-06-2005, 08:10 AM
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#28
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: la crosse wi
My Ride: 90 dodge spirit t1
Engine: 2.5 t1 intercooled
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i realize this wouldn't work with a turbo, but has anybody thought of putting longer rods in a2.5? the reason i ask is because the 4.09 in. stroke and short rod is really hard
on wrist pins. whats happening is the rod is trying to push the piston through the
cylinder wall, creating more friction and wear. the only problem is finding a rod with small enough journals to come close to the 2.5 dimensions. also the reason it wouldn't work with a turbo or a supercharger is beause as rpms go up so does the copression in a long rod engine. it would idle fine even run pretty good but the boost at higher rpms would make for some SERIOUS detanation. maybe i should go talk to the n/a guys.
just a thought.
later,
jammerz63
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01-06-2005, 08:49 AM
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#29
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Chicagoland!
My Ride: 1987 Shelby Z
1/4: 11.620
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by jammerz63
i realize this wouldn't work with a turbo, but has anybody thought of putting longer rods in a2.5? the reason i ask is because the 4.09 in. stroke and short rod is really hard
on wrist pins. whats happening is the rod is trying to push the piston through the
cylinder wall, creating more friction and wear. the only problem is finding a rod with small enough journals to come close to the 2.5 dimensions. also the reason it wouldn't work with a turbo or a supercharger is beause as rpms go up so does the copression in a long rod engine. it would idle fine even run pretty good but the boost at higher rpms would make for some SERIOUS detanation. maybe i should go talk to the n/a guys.
just a thought.
later,
jammerz63
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And why won't long rods work with a turbo? Forward Motion can set you up.
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