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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 12-29-2004, 05:46 PM   #1
Changin out rods/pistons with the block in the car(mini)  
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Anyone dont this? Only reason it would be easier to do it this way is because right now i dont have access to a Garage/Hoist/Stand to do it (All of this is being taken up with bigger, more important projects) . So has anyone ever done this and was it a Real PITA? I assume that i wouldnt be able to drop the crank given the fact that its attatched to the Flywheel.
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Old 12-29-2004, 05:55 PM   #2
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marcoze
Anyone dont this? Only reason it would be easier to do it this way is because right now i dont have access to a Garage/Hoist/Stand to do it (All of this is being taken up with bigger, more important projects) . So has anyone ever done this and was it a Real PITA? I assume that i wouldnt be able to drop the crank given the fact that its attatched to the Flywheel.
I've done it. It's not that bad, but you have to be psychotic about keeping everything clean (assuming you're going to do a quick hone).
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:04 PM   #3
 
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Originally Posted by Dan Culkin
I've done it. It's not that bad, but you have to be psychotic about keeping everything clean (assuming you're going to do a quick hone).

Yeah id just be tossin a quick hone at it. Im kind of paranoid though about dirt/dust though as i would be doing it outside in my driveway. I guess i could build a tent of sorts.
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:10 PM   #4
 
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If there are good crosshatch marks, don't bother with the hone. Done it numerous times. Last engine I did it to the rings seated within 5 miles (22 psi will do that) and the engine dynoed at 289 whp.
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:11 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by marcoze
Yeah id just be tossin a quick hone at it. Im kind of paranoid though about dirt/dust though as i would be doing it outside in my driveway. I guess i could build a tent of sorts.
Dirt and dust are the least of your problems, unless you live on a beach. It's cleaning the cylinder walls from the hone, and making sure none of the stone or metal "goo" is still around anywhere when you're reassembling. You'll probably spend 5X as much time cleaning as you will honing.

Another warning, be careful when putting the pistons back in. Some idiot I knew once (that looked alot like me, handsome devil) was putting his pistons back in, and knicked the crank with the exposed un-covered-up rod bolt, and had the pleasure of polishing it out lying on the ground having oil droplets in his hair giving him that Danny Zucco look (unfortunately a young Olivia Newton John wasn't dressing up in leather for me...)
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:11 PM   #6
 
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Been there, done that. Just make sure as noted to keep everything clean, use a ball hone and I used lots of brake cleaner, carb cleaner and engine degreaser to clean the bores and crank throws. Try to buy the one piece oil pan gasket, its so much easier putting the oil pan back on.
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:14 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by glhsken
If there are good crosshatch marks, don't bother with the hone. Done it numerous times. Last engine I did it to the rings seated within 5 miles (22 psi will do that) and the engine dynoed at 289 whp.
Ken works in "accelerated" everything - when Adler is around, things happen fast!

Rings seat in 5 miles. Impressive dyno numbers at 200 miles. Tranny destruction in 1500 miles.

(I won't speculate about other personal activities...)

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Old 12-29-2004, 06:23 PM   #8
 
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LOL... Good one!@!! (note the engine held!!!, damn trannies!!!)

You better come to SDAC this year!!! (brews await!!)
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:35 PM   #9
 
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LOL... Good one!@!! (note the engine held!!!, damn trannies!!!)

You better come to SDAC this year!!! (brews await!!)
I can't. AGAIN. We decided to go for 1 more kid, and lucky me the due date is right around SDAC.

These child birthdates are killing my hobby - got one near SDAC, got one near Carlisle, and got 1 around Cecil!
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Old 12-29-2004, 09:16 PM   #10
 
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get some rubber hose to put over the rod bolts to help keep from knicking the crank. It would be nice to be able to wash the cylinders as there will be small debris inside the cross hatch. I use a bottle brush and soapy water and then a good rinse and then some oil on the cylinders.
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:25 PM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Andre' Parker
get some rubber hose to put over the rod help keep from missing the SDAC.
... whaaaa
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Old 12-29-2004, 10:36 PM   #12
 
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Hey, I'm doing the same bit in my omni right now, chaging piston and rods while engine is still in the vehicle. Would you suggest cutting out the ring ridge before a quick scuff with the hone so the new rings won't tap it at the top and make noise/possibally break the rings? And yep, the ring ridge isn't much, but its still there = worn holes, but the origional hatch is still visibal and i'm not expecting much of the engine. We'll call it a learning experiance

Now, if that pesky FM would send my pistons already, its been like a month+ and i called them, and god the old run around. Things aren't looking good.
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Old 12-30-2004, 09:23 AM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by Putter
Hey, I'm doing the same bit in my omni right now, chaging piston and rods while engine is still in the vehicle. Would you suggest cutting out the ring ridge before a quick scuff with the hone so the new rings won't tap it at the top and make noise/possibally break the rings? And yep, the ring ridge isn't much, but its still there = worn holes, but the origional hatch is still visibal and i'm not expecting much of the engine. We'll call it a learning experiance

Now, if that pesky FM would send my pistons already, its been like a month+ and i called them, and god the old run around. Things aren't looking good.
I didn't ...

Hey if it's only been a month since you ordered your pistons, you've got plenty of time yet! HAHA!!!

Just kidding
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:20 AM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Putter
Hey, I'm doing the same bit in my omni right now, chaging piston and rods while engine is still in the vehicle. Would you suggest cutting out the ring ridge before a quick scuff with the hone so the new rings won't tap it at the top and make noise/possibally break the rings? And yep, the ring ridge isn't much, but its still there = worn holes, but the origional hatch is still visibal and i'm not expecting much of the engine. We'll call it a learning experiance

Now, if that pesky FM would send my pistons already, its been like a month+ and i called them, and god the old run around. Things aren't looking good.
Only a month, muhahhhahhahhah, I waited almost 7 weeks for a SV and Elbow they had in "stock".
Anyhow, I would remove the ridge, new rings have a sharp edge and it could possibly damaged the new rings when running. Also, could damage a piston also when removing them.
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Old 12-30-2004, 11:29 AM   #15
 
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If the ridge is just carbon, it will come off with paint thinner. If the ridge is metal, you might want to check your piston to wall clearances.
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