Machining this block....?

[MoparFreak]

Okay, I'm probably going to pick up an 87 T2 motor complete except for intake setup. I went and looked at it tonight. It supposedly has about 115K on it, but there's absolutely ZERO wear ridge at the top of the cylinders, and the cylinder walls are VERY smooth.
How do I determine if it needs bored? I was thinking of just having it honed, and have everything balanced, and checked out. It also needs a new cam. I was thinking, if I take it to the machine shop to have them check everything out, what should I bring to them? Should I have the engine deck height "trued", and also my cylinder head. How easy is it to install a cam? How much should I expect to pay for the cam? My FSM is in the mail and should arrive about the time I purchase my motor. I'm going to make about 20 lbs of boost with it (it's coming w/ a 60 trim Garret!). I was hoping to have the shop assemble the whole shortblock assembly, then get a torque wrench and assemble the rest on my own. What all should I need? Just basically any advice would be great. Thanks.

Michael

[Phreakish]

I'd take it into them, they'll be able to tell you if the head/block can hold a gasket. They'll true it for ya - I'd have the rods done too, didn't cost me much ($75 or so for all 4, align honed, lengths double checked, bushings replaced, new pistons installed ($200 for new pistons), and everything checked including the rod bolts IIRC). If the block has no hone marks left, or if the piston-to-wall clearance is large (over 7 thou I think?) then you'll want it bored. May as well go whole hog to do it right IMO. Cost me about $250 for a whole head job (guides, seals, valve job, pressure test, vac test, jet cleaning, decked, and reassembled). And something like $500 for the whole block work (cleaned, fluxed, new soft plugs, bored, honed to the pistons, pistons installed on the rods, rods cleaned up/shot peened, new int shaft bearings installed, and they even threw on some paint for me since they washed a lot of it off when they tanked it for me, lol!). I had my work done by engine pros in Bakersfield CA, great shop if anyone else is in that area.

Also not a bad idea to have the block magnafluxed, new soft plugs, head decked (just to true it, if its warped at all).

The only 'hard' part of an engine assembly is lining up the rings right (get a haynes manual, it shows you), and then puching them into the block with a good ring compressor. You can get one at autostoned for $10, and get a refund when you bring it back.

But if you can afford it, have them assemble the short block, but leave off the tin (oil pan) so you can double check the torque specs so you dont have a problem.

The rest is cake with the engine out. You can even put a spiffy paint job on it while its out too (man I love orange).

Cam is easy to install, just be sure to follow the right procedure to get the cam timing right, and you'll be okay. This is easy when the engine is out because you can set the engine at damn near perfect TDC, which makes alignment of the sprockets really easy. Go slow, take your time, and think ahead so you don't have to remove something to fix another problem.

[MoparFreak]

Thanks, I'll probably have them check it out, but I'm almost positive that I won't need it bored. Can I get away w/ stock pistons on a .020 bore? Just oversized rings? Just incase I do have to bore. I believe I'll have them assemble the shortblock, but I think I will be able to do the head. Shouldn't be that hard w/ the right tools. Why get a Haynes Manual? I thought the FSM should cover everything and more that a Haynes does?

Michael

[mo' parts]

use the fsm.
give the shop your block and have them check the cylinders for out-of-round and taper before ordering any pistons. same with the crank and rods. it would be a pita to order parts only to find you need oversize.
.020 over bore=.020 over pistons.
i have a 89,000 mile motor, looks beatiful(cylinder wise), my dial bore gauge tells me the cylinders are within spec. but im still going to have my shop check it before ordering anything. lol
chances are your block is prob. fine. just needs bearings, seals, rings, and clearances checked. if your not comfortable assembling it yourself, let the shop do it. usally doesnt cost that much for them to do it.
what are your goals? i would look for a commonblock. lol

[MoparFreak]

I'm just looking to run mid 13's. Or around 18-20 lbs of boost. I DON"T have the money for a CB. I'm picking up this motor minus intake, w/ ported ex. manifold and a .60 trim turbo that has 10K miles on it for $400. I know it's a STEAL, and I can't pass it up. Especially that turbo.
Also, what kind of intake came on 89 Shelby Daytona's? Cause I just bought a T2 intake that came off of one last night on ebay that looks really nice. $50 w/ injectors, harness, and fuel rail.
Where can I get a cam as well? How much would that cost?

Michael

[Phreakish]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBMoparFreak Thanks, I'll probably have them check it out, but I'm almost positive that I won't need it bored. Can I get away w/ stock pistons on a .020 bore? Just oversized rings? Just incase I do have to bore. I believe I'll have them assemble the shortblock, but I think I will be able to do the head. Shouldn't be that hard w/ the right tools. Why get a Haynes Manual? I thought the FSM should cover everything and more that a Haynes does? Michael

Haynes are cheaper and easier to find - the FSM is a much better tool, but a little more pricey and hard to find from what I've read.

You CANT use std pistons in a .020" bored block, at all.

Have it checked, and after that decide what you want to do. If they say it needs a bore/hone, then bore/hone it. If they say its fine, see if they can hone it just a bit. I'd definitely have it cleaned and magnafluxed though.

The head is more work to do than the shortblock. If anything, I'd have the head done above all else (if its got any warp or fails a pressure/vac test).

Just my .02

[Phreakish]

Quote:

Originally Posted by BBMoparFreak I'm just looking to run mid 13's. Or around 18-20 lbs of boost. I DON"T have the money for a CB. I'm picking up this motor minus intake, w/ ported ex. manifold and a .60 trim turbo that has 10K miles on it for $400. I know it's a STEAL, and I can't pass it up. Especially that turbo. Also, what kind of intake came on 89 Shelby Daytona's? Cause I just bought a T2 intake that came off of one last night on ebay that looks really nice. $50 w/ injectors, harness, and fuel rail. Where can I get a cam as well? How much would that cost? Michael

I picked up a cam at a u-pull real cheap ($30?) from an '89 turbo mini in great shape.

So long as you get a blow-thru intake, you'll be fine. From what I've read, the 2pc isnt' that much better than a 1pc. A 2pc might fit the bill better for a 13 sec car, but a 1pc should work just fine too (and MUCH easier to work on).

Also, if you wind up having to get pistons, I'd suggest finding some forged ones - oversized stockers run about $200 a set, $400 a set gets you forged and they'll withstand a lot more while you tune for 13 secs.