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02-10-2005, 01:30 PM
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#17
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I wouldn't do the head anyway TrboVan .... chances are, over the life of the motor, you'll be shaving the head before the block. First time you do that it's bye-bye o-ring investment.
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02-10-2005, 01:45 PM
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#19
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: MN
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by puppet
I wouldn't do the head anyway TrboVan .... chances are, over the life of the motor, you'll be shaving the head before the block. First time you do that it's bye-bye o-ring investment.
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Already done.
With the proper cooling there should be no head warpage.
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02-10-2005, 01:53 PM
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#20
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chicago, IL
My Ride: 1987 Shelby CSX #694
Engine: 1987 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.737
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Your forgetting about everyone's *******: Murphy. He is bound to notice.
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02-10-2005, 02:08 PM
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#21
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ottawa Lake, Michigan
My Ride: 1999 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: AMC 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Mine's o-ringed but not the block, I had the head o-ringed, (but I have a cast iron head, not aluminum) used a Felpro head gasket, with ARP 1/2" head studs. No problems.
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02-10-2005, 03:17 PM
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#22
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by TrboVan
Already done.
With the proper cooling there should be no head warpage.
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Can I get that in writing? :P
I don't know if you can consider the gasket a fuse. It's not like they're rated to blow at XXpsi or in a expected manner. Fact is, most guys try their best to secure the head so the the gasket doesn't blow. At the power levels some of you guys are at, if something goes wrong, blown gasket or not, the engine is probably going to be toast anyway.
I know that o-ringing has help guys mostly with heads that were only clamped with 10 bolts vs. 16 ... talking V8's here. Our heads are about 3-4" shorter and a bit narrower but I'm sure some fellas think they're still 2 bolts short of a full load ... ummmm, from being perfectly clamped.
Hey, to each his own.
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02-10-2005, 03:20 PM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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I've seen it act as a fuse. What else would you call a part that "gives" or sacrifices itself when NEEDED to save more expensive damage.
You don't consider it a fuse. I do. I've built or been a part of 3-400whp engines for TD's. Done right, the fuse will never blow. But at those power levels (2-3 hp/cu inch) hiccups DO happen. To each their own.
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02-10-2005, 03:41 PM
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#24
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Ken, you've probably seen it not act as a fuse too.
I guess the problem I have with the term is that there is no set pressure level the gasket reacts to. This all depends on installation technique. A real fuse has parameters.
This is all moot anyway from the standpoint some of the guys that develope high HP. They're confident that their motors is tuned right. A blown gasket, to them, is an annoyance.
.... like when they blow sitting at idle in a parking lot.
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02-10-2005, 03:56 PM
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#25
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by puppet
Ken, you've probably seen it not act as a fuse too.
I guess the problem I have with the term is that there is no set pressure level the gasket reacts to. This all depends on installation technique. A real fuse has parameters.
This is all moot anyway from the standpoint some of the guys that develope high HP. They're confident that their motors is tuned right. A blown gasket, to them, is an annoyance.
.... like when they blow sitting at idle in a parking lot.
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LOL... semantics  With these 15-20 year old platforms, tuned right or not is merely the current mode. SOMETHING always gives out, even when you think you have replaced everything.
Let's not argue semantics, rather the rational behind the statement. From now on i'll type it "fuse" to remove any ambiguity in the statement.
BTW, if it blew sitting in the parking lot idling... something was obviously wrong to begin with.
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02-10-2005, 04:38 PM
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#26
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin
My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Hey it's cool Ken. I just figure the guy's 3x7 ... if your gonna be living large at the track, stuff's gonna break, I know that ... thought he did too.
As for the parking lot thing, your right ... it's called FelPro.
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02-10-2005, 04:40 PM
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#27
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY
My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510
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He does. You don't have the fastest 5 sp TD without realising that  . We fully know stuff is gonna break... we'd rather have some "limited" control over what possible breaks.
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02-10-2005, 04:52 PM
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#28
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by glhsken
tuned right or not is merely the current mode. .
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Hahhahaha, a TD tuned right,
I didn't think that was possible, lol!
But I agree with Ken, would much rather have a head gasket pop than blow a piston etc due to the gasket not giving out. Fuse is a proper term!
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02-15-2005, 06:53 PM
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#29
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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I made the mistake of o-ringing a block. I'm going to use it, but if I had it to do over again I wouldn't have done it. Tremendous waste of time and money in retrospect...
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