Best bottom end combo

[god910]

I'm not trying to get everyone in a debate on this one, just new to TD's and lost my Daytona's engine this morning on the way to work. I found it when I got home. My (???) cam seal is missing. Spewing oil all over my engine compartment. (and the ground) Sooooo... Being new, I kinda don't understand what I want in a bottom end. What is the benefits (if any) to going CB? Are all T2 rods (if any) forged? I don't *really* want to buy forged pistons, but if NEEDED I will to achieve my end goal. What are the limits to the cast crank? My ultimate goal is 12's. Even 12.999 would be fine. I'd just like to see 12's in a driver. Like 50 miles round trip to work kind of driver. I also am having a hard time understanding what years to get of what. One last question... a CB, is a CB, is a CB? or is that not true. How about n/a to turbo? Or are they both the same (as far as CB's go)? Thanks alot, still trying to figure out these here Dodges. The car is an 87 Pacifica, and I'm in the parts buying part of my T2 'version. Thanks again.

[turbovanman]

Wow, go to www.thedodgegarage.com and most of your questions will be answered.
Yes a CB is a CB is a CB, lol! you can make a N/A block to a turbo, just need to add the turbo drain back.

[TheRock]

Bryan made 330+ hp to the wheels and went 11.50s in his Shadow with a stock T2 bottom end. The stock cast Mahle 2.2 pistons are very good units (avoid detonation like with all pistons), and should support the power you are after.

A local shop is doing stock TD rebuilds near me, so if you don't have anyone local to do the work, let me know, and I'll get you in touch with them.

[john1320]

Hey, Rock. You just helped answer a couple of questions I had -on limitations of the stock parts. Thanks

87 T-2 Daytona Shelbyz

[god910]

Well as it turns out, I'm working on a deal w/ another TD member for his FM Enforcer II bottom end. The biggest problem I see as of right now is that the E2 bottom end is setup for .912 pins and the only pistons (it needs pistons) I found in my short search are .901 or .927 (Maybe FM wanted you to have to buy there replacement pistons? ) I guess punching them out for a .927 pin wouldn't be that big of a deal, I just don't want to go working on $450 brand new pistons. That bottom should perform WELL beyond my current goal and leave me lots of room for improvement. I actually think I may go beyone my goal on accident W/ a TU 3 bar cal, the fact that the block is O-ringed, and able to handle the power, I've ditched my stock I/C idea, I'll need more cooling. hahaha

[TonaChris]

delete

[turbovanman]

O-ringing the block is a waste of time, not needed but if its done already, no biggie.

Try to skip buying bigger wrist pins as your right, you have to modify the small rod end and theres no need to. Will just make getting replacement pistons harder in the future, and if your broken down and need to replace a piston, you could use a stocker in its place to get home, but no if your pin end is larger. The power level you want, the reg size pin is fine.

[johnl]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheRock Bryan made 330+ hp to the wheels and went 11.50s in his Shadow with a stock T2 bottom end. The stock cast Mahle 2.2 pistons are very good units (avoid detonation like with all pistons), and should support the power you are after. A local shop is doing stock TD rebuilds near me, so if you don't have anyone local to do the work, let me know, and I'll get you in touch with them.

Mock GLH mad e 340 HP last week at the TU dyno day with Mahles in a 2.5 CB and "stone age" G valve.

[god910]

Well the small end is already opened up to the "custom" size FM uses for the JE pistons. (It's the Ford .912" pin) I talked to my machine shop and we're going to open up the small end for the .927 Wiseco's and for the same price as the JE's (almost) I can get the Wiseco's and get them coated The REASON I'm going that way (and still waiting on an answer from the current owner of the FM block) They punched the block out .030, well, JE doesn't make a .75 mm over piston (only Circle track, AND I'd have to get new rods) So it's either bore AGAIN to 1 mm or resize the rods. Still deciding if I want to do this, because it seems like every day (duh) more money is pilling up and it's stuff I wasn't informed of. Seems like had I already paid, I'd be pretty PISSED!

[turbovanman]

If its already bored .030, make sure its still good, as in no scratches etc or is it newly done? before you order new pistons.

[god910]

All the machine work is fresh, ie no miles. It's not even been put back together. I bet he realized what happened and just ditched it (but I don't know why someone would do that after spending $2700 on a SB then having to pay another $400 in machine work ex post facto. He recently (quote from a PM):

Quote:

I bought it directly from FM assembled. I hurt a piston and had it bored .30 over, plate honed, crank champhered, and the block completely stripped of all paint , and had new freeze plugs installed. Have EVERYTHING but bearings, rings, and pistons, and a few misc. gaskets. Just needs reassembled. If you are going bigger this is the only way to fly trust me I spent (not including the new machine work) $2700 on this thing and all it needs is pistons. YOU would not be dissapointed in this one

[turbovanman]

Wow, guess he got fed up, easily done with TD's,

[22dodge]

The "BEST" bottom end I came up with was a Callis custom billet crank, Crower 6.5" rods, JE pistons and Billet main caps.

[DakotaKid]

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnl Mock GLH mad e 340 HP last week at the TU dyno day with Mahles in a 2.5 CB and "stone age" G valve.

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/sho...&postcount=185
Not sure what to make of this post on that very subject.

What is the best track time the car has seen?

Has he run the car at the track lately?
If so, how did it run?

-Bryan

[als]

they did not have nails to fix the boat, come on now i fig. that one out long time ago.lolALS