TurboDodge.com MarketPlace Shelby Registry Contact Us

Advertisement - Remove these ads today by clicking here.
 

Go Back   TurboDodge.Com - Turbo Dodge forum for Turbo Mopars, Shelbys, Daytona, SRT-4, PT Cruiser, Omni and more! > Turbo Dodge Technical Chat > Engine - Block

Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools

Old 02-27-2005, 12:06 PM   #1
Building up the crank or oversized bearings?  
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Dec 2004

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 28
Feedback: (0)
hey guys.. i gotta a question.. is it better to build the crank back to standard size or to polish it down to oversized bearings in a 2.2L turbo
85LaserXe is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2005, 12:12 PM   #2
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Muncie, IN

My Ride: 87 Daytona Pacifica
Engine: 2.2 Turbo I
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 78
Feedback: (0)
Build it back to standard size? Can't say I've ever heard of that, can't say that if it was possible it'd be very easy. I'd just turn, polish, and go oversized bearings.
god910 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2005, 12:17 PM   #3
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Glen Burnie, Md

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 451
Feedback: (0)
Yes you can build it up back to standard. Although it is not cost effective or wise. When you do have it ground for .010 bearings, ask the machine shop what they will charge to build it back up to standard...very expensive!
GLHS0658 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2005, 01:35 PM   #4
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Muncie, IN

My Ride: 87 Daytona Pacifica
Engine: 2.2 Turbo I
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 78
Feedback: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by GLHS0658
Yes you can build it up back to standard. Although it is not cost effective or wise. When you do have it ground for .010 bearings, ask the machine shop what they will charge to build it back up to standard...very expensive!
Seems a little rediculous unless you had a custom forged crank and took a big chunk out of it.
god910 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2005, 03:35 PM   #5
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl

My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284

Posts: 3,799
Feedback: (0)
Or you stroked a 2.2 crank to 3.75"
Reaper1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2005, 07:54 PM   #6
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Calgary CAN

My Ride: 88 Lancer Shelby
Engine: 4cyl. 2.5L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 1,290
Feedback: (0)
Or you de-stroked a 2.2 to a 2.0
LancerShelby is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2005, 09:15 PM   #7
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Muncie, IN

My Ride: 87 Daytona Pacifica
Engine: 2.2 Turbo I
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 78
Feedback: (0)
But it would still be cheaper to get another and turn it to where you want.
god910 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 02-27-2005, 11:29 PM   #8
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: The Dells in Wisconsin

My Ride: '89 Daytona Shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 3,111
Feedback: (1)
They weld them up. I'd only consider it for one journal though. Anymore than that just isn't worth the trouble/money.
puppet is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2005, 02:35 AM   #9
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Hollywood, CA

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 70
Feedback: (0)
sounds like you need a more reliable car, you should buy a hyundai
3.0Duster is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2005, 02:47 AM   #10
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Northfield,Mn

My Ride: Omni
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 208
Feedback: (0)
LOL +1 3.0Duster

i would suggest going oversize bearings as stated, more cost effective
omnious is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2005, 04:48 PM   #11
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Delta BC, Canada

My Ride: Mini, Shadow, LeBaro
Engine: 2.5 T1 & 2.2 T4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 46
Feedback: (0)
I wouldn't built up the crank by welding, its only a short term solution. Welding weakens it. If you only intend to run it for a year or so, might be OK. The fatique resistance to progressive cracking is reduced to a fraction of it's original design. Going to oversize bearings is a much safer route.

That is, a tiny crack will start at the weld and and gets bigger and bigger till it breaks the crank, a lot earlier than originally designed!

Last edited by sleeper_1; 03-04-2005 at 04:59 PM.
sleeper_1 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2005, 06:10 PM   #12
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Southgate, KY

My Ride: 1987 Shelby GLHS 189
Engine: 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.510

Posts: 5,234
Feedback: (0)
Nothing wrong with a .010 crank... I just had 3 done!! one is for a 400whp engine.
glhsken is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-04-2005, 08:26 PM   #13
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO

My Ride: '87 Lebaron Coupe
Engine: mild 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000

Posts: 512
Feedback: (0)
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeper_1
I wouldn't built up the crank by welding, its only a short term solution. Welding weakens it. If you only intend to run it for a year or so, might be OK. The fatique resistance to progressive cracking is reduced to a fraction of it's original design. Going to oversize bearings is a much safer route.

That is, a tiny crack will start at the weld and and gets bigger and bigger till it breaks the crank, a lot earlier than originally designed!
I've never heard of a good weld causing any problems with the crank. And no, it's not a temporary solution. The new metal is bonded to the existing metal, and then the weld is ground to match the size of the other journals. The hole is then chamfered and the journals polished. I don't know where you got your information, but it's incorrect. I worked in a crank shop for a while and there were never any returns due to bad welds, or welds causing problems.
Moparmonster is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2005, 01:15 AM   #14
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wichita, Kansas

My Ride: 2004 SRT4
Engine: 2.4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.680

Posts: 1,165
Feedback: (-1)
It would depend on what type of material was used when it was welded. I am not sure for the auto world, but in the plastic mold injection arena, they have a chrome plating they use for friction that builds up the surface of the screws used for injecting hot plastic. This stuff is cheaper than having it welded and is designed to reduce wear. Cheapest would be have it turned down. They can only turn it so far due to heat treating. some of them are nitrided and may only penetrate the metal .020-.100 or so depending on the parent metal.
Andre Parker is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 03-05-2005, 03:40 PM   #15
 
Naturally Aspirated
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Lakewoood. CO

1/4: 0.000

Posts: 571
Feedback: (0)
I personally wouldn't worry about having the crank turned too far. With how commonly 2.2s and 2.5s can be found in junkyards, I would think replacement cranks would not be difficult to find.
Koreth is offline  
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

» Quick Nav
- Home
- Classifieds
- Timeslips
- Gallery
- Vendors
-- Directory
- Tech Articles
- Donate
Sponsors
remove ads

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.0.1
Mortgage | Buy Anything On eBay | Repair Bad Credit | Debt Consolidation | Debt Consolidation


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.2.0

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:02 AM.

Page generated in 0.39456 seconds with 13 queries