taking apart block

[1986_TURBO_Z]

Tommorrow I am going to start disassembling my block by removing the oil pan, pistons, etc. I hopefully am going to just get new piston rings but what else should I check for? What are the problem areas that usually have to be replaced such as oil pumps, etc???

thanks, this is my first time taking apart a motor and am learning as I go. My head is in the shop getting redone, and was wondering what all should be done to the block.

[Phreakish]

if you have the engine out, I'd consider the minimums to be:

replace oil pump and pickup tube (about $60 total at any autparts store)
new rod and main bearings, as well as new main seals. (about $60 total, $25~30 for bearings ($25~30 for mains, same for rods) plus $5 for the seals).
if you dont know what kind of condition the engine was in, I'd do a headgasket and check the head for good valves, no cracks, etc.
Valve stem seals ($10 for the seals, I mean, its so much easier to do it with the head off now).
New intermediate shaft bearings! they're listed as camshaft bearings, they're clevite bearings and special order at most parts stores.

Other possibilities:
port the oil feed hole
enlarge main bearing oil feed holes
port work

You made a good choice getting the head redone, as that will come back very nice.

If you wanted to go for a full rebuild, I'd go as follows (for a mostly stock build that is):
clean/magnaflux the block
bore (new pistons needed) by .020 or .010 depending on condition of the bores.
recondition the rods (worth it, my shop charged $50, and they're awesome)
deck the block (if needed, ask them to check it as most want to do it anyway, but you dont want to increase compression much either)
have the crank checked/turn (magnafluxed/cleaned, ground/polished)
have them order new bearings if they turn the crank - getting the right bearings was a total PITA for me.
new frost plugs
paint the block (or entire engine) *optional.

I did this, and was VERY pleased - I also had the head redone (valve guides, seats, 3 angle, seals, reset spring heights and tensions, pressure checked, cleaned, decked, checked for cracks (not magnafluxed - head is aluminum)).

Was all VERY worth it in the end - clean parts, tight build, very nice!

But all this is STILL waiting to go into the car, and my 'fast build' engine (previous owner did a quick hone, new rings, new rod bearings, oil pump and pickup tube, headgasket) is still running great after 3k miles! Runs like a top with great compression, awesome pull, and 38mpg on the freeway

If ya got any specific questions, dont hesitate to PM - I learned along the way too and spent about $400 in wasted parts (wrong or bad parts that needed to be replaced, or were used parts that were worn out).

Remember - if you arent having fun with it, you aint doin it right (thats how my teflon rear main wound up on the roof of the neighbors house).

[1986_TURBO_Z]

How much should I expect to spend on doing most of that??

[Phreakish]

total cost to me was ~$500 for the block/crank/rods etc. $200 for new cast pistons, $250 for the head work. So ~$1000 isn't unreasonable, but it really depends on how much work you want/are willing to pay for.

[1986_TURBO_Z]

when you say clean/magnaflux the block, what is that exactly?? Where can I get this product?

today I removed the pistons, and all that is left in the block is the crank, and fly wheel which will be removed tommorrow.

[Moparmonster]

Magnafluxing is taking a metal object, a block or a crank, for example, putting a weak magnetic charge in it, and then pouring a solution of antifreeze and tiny metal shavings over it. With a black light, any cracks present will show up as fine white lines. You can do this with any engine part, but only a professional shop will have the ability to do so. The average home mechanic doen't have the equipment, nor would he need it. It costs about $25 to do a crank if I recall, and an engine block a little bit more, depending on four, six, or eight cylinders.

[supercrackerbox]

I ran right about $550 for the shortblock, which included cleaning and magnafluxing, .50mm overbore, .010 cut on the crank, resizing the rods, Speedpro pistons and rings, and all new bearings. This didn't include any gaskets, oil pump, and everything else. By the time the car was running, I was at least $800 into it.