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04-10-2005, 05:32 PM
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#2
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Bristol, Ct
My Ride: 85 glh turbo
Engine: 2.2 turbo
Induct: Turbo + Nitrous
1/4: 11.510
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I would go for it. I measured my torque plate and it is 1.75" thick. Using the head gasket as a template is a good idea.
Good luck!
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04-11-2005, 12:26 AM
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#4
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wichita, Kansas
My Ride: 2004 SRT4
Engine: 2.4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.680
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Make sure the mill you are using can hold really tight tolerances or your plate may not work very well.
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04-11-2005, 08:32 PM
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#5
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Jacksonville, Fl
My Ride: '88 Shelby Z TII
Engine: 2.2 TII
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.284
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As far as thickness Andre' is right, but I have a buddy that has one made out of an old elevator counterweight...the cylinder holes were cut in it with a torch I beleive...the bolt holes were drilled. I think he had it planed after the cutting was done.
I actually broke down and bought one($$$OUCH$$$), even out of the box it had to be modified!!! The friggin' cylinder holes weren't centered over the block when it was bolted down! The machine shop HATED that!!!
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04-13-2005, 01:49 AM
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#7
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Penticton, BC, Canada
My Ride: Shelby Z's
Engine: 2.2 TII's
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.910
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Or rent that bad boy out nice and cheap for some of the fellow Canucks who don't wanna pay for shipping one up from the States
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04-13-2005, 02:08 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Wichita, Kansas
My Ride: 2004 SRT4
Engine: 2.4
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.680
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The equipment in the shop he is describing is more than adequate for making one. As long as the blue print is on. I personally would use a engine block to make a print as it will be a more accurate point to make a print from than a gasket. Just how I would do it.
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04-13-2005, 07:32 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Iowa City, IA
My Ride: '87 Omni
Engine: Dodge 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.320
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I thought about just cutting an old cylinder head into a torque plate, what could mimic a cylinder head better than a cylinder head?
My neighbor has a large machine shop with a bandsaw definatly big enough to hack off the cam caps, and mill out the cylinders.
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04-13-2005, 08:29 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: wisconsin rapids, WI
1/4: 0.000
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I suppose if you have a CNC, grinder, to ensure perfect flatness. you need a precision ground surface. I use to have all that stuff in my race shop before health forced me to get out of that....even having all the equipment to make a part such as a torque plate, by the time if figured on material (that usually isn't free) setup time, machine run time and energy cost, it wasn't worth the $200 for a brand new one that someone else did all the work. I'll save money when it's quick and easy. but if you don't have it pefectly parallel, use the right materials, you could end up distorting the block.
but if i still had all the necessarry equipment, Free material supply and endless time, I suppose I would be making one also.
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04-13-2005, 10:53 PM
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#15
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Iowa City, IA
My Ride: '87 Omni
Engine: Dodge 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.320
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I don't know if hacking the cams off and boring out the cylinders of a stock head would change its strength against the block much, as the cam towers are barely attached if you really look at the bases, and the entire backside of the chamber of course is a coolant jacked, but all your clamping loads are still going to be transferred right down to the deck surface via headbolt bosses etc.....
It would probably work better than just a flat steel plate, but I'm not expert so I could be totally out in left field on this one.
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