Need some opinions-use ARP main studs or stock bolts?

[turbovanman]

Ok, I forgot about the mains. I have read around and searched, no one really brings up the bolts as a weak point. I am trying to do this engine for the last time so I would rather get it right. Unfortuneatly, I already have the block back from my machine shop and have read that if I use ARP studs, I need to get the block main bores aligned? Soooo, what do I do? do I reuse the stock bolts, or order studs and get my block redone.
Now, it will only see high boost at the track but otherwise be around 16 psi on the street but I do beat it pretty hard and tow with it. When I checked the bearings on my first engine that lasted aprox 22000 kms, the mains were fine! Help!

[Una]

All I can say, is lets look at your past track record for luck....

[cawcislo]

Is this a common block? I'm assuming it is. Well if you spent a bunch of money on the engine already why not spend a few $ more to get the arp mains and get them align honed and be done with it.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Una All I can say, is lets look at your past track record for luck....

Sheesh, wise guy,

Yeah I know but it was all for testing, now I know, testing is over, its ON baby,


Yes, its a CB, of course,

[85lebaront2]

Simon, I used all ARP hardware in my 88 T2 engine, I didn't need to line bore the caps. The ARP stuff shouldn't change the main cap alignment, they are aligned side to side by the machined recess in the block. Line boring is only a concern if the crank shows uneven wear or other bearing failure issues. It is a good idea though. I posted the ARP PN's a while back for someone else. BTW, what killed the van? I didn't recall seeing the reason. The newer ARP stuff has allen wrench provision so they can be removed like bolts for ease in dissasembly/reassembly.

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85lebaront2 Simon, I used all ARP hardware in my 88 T2 engine, I didn't need to line bore the caps. The ARP stuff shouldn't change the main cap alignment, they are aligned side to side by the machined recess in the block. Line boring is only a concern if the crank shows uneven wear or other bearing failure issues. It is a good idea though. I posted the ARP PN's a while back for someone else. BTW, what killed the van? I didn't recall seeing the reason. The newer ARP stuff has allen wrench provision so they can be removed like bolts for ease in dissasembly/reassembly.

There was a thread on here about this, having to have the block checked or realigned due to the difference clamping forces of the studs vs bolts.

Yeah, I know about the "broaching", I run ARP head studs.

What killed it, old tired worn out bottom end and me beating the shit out of it at 16 psi. When I got it running last year and again this year, expected the enigne to only last a few months, lasted close to 5 months,

[TRRBOJEEP]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 85lebaront2 BTW, what killed the van?

His girlfriend borrowed it and raced every ricer she ran across! (while it was loaded with all her belongings) lol just kidding Simon

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRRBOJEEP His girlfriend borrowed it and raced every ricer she ran across! (while it was loaded with all her belongings) lol just kidding Simon

Hahahaaha, I would be proud if she blew it up racing a ricer and kicked his ass doing it,

[TRRBOJEEP]

Hell, we'd have all been proud of her, and we'd have taken up a collection to put it back together for you!

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TRRBOJEEP Hell, we'd have all been proud of her, and we'd have taken up a collection to put it back together for you!

You still can,

Just talked to ARP, they said that depending on the block, I might not need an align bore, just install the studs, then have it checked. I asked there advice as they could have put together some bolts for me and he said studs, no questions asked. They have spoken, so I guess I am ordering some studs, arrrrrg

[Koreth]

Are the ARP studs like the headboltsts are? Where they stretch on the final turn? Or are the ARP studs designed to be used many times again and again?

[puTTs]

You can reuse ARP over and over. I'm don't know about the alignbore. I didn't think studs held "tighter" I thought you used studs because they use every thread in the block, since there in farther then a bolt they have less flexing from the main caps walking. But, I don't know, I'm used to SB mopars 318/340/360, the valve trains with fly apart long before a stock bottem goes anywhere puTTs

[turbovanman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koreth Are the ARP studs like the headboltsts are? Where they stretch on the final turn? Or are the ARP studs designed to be used many times again and again?

Yes, there the same basically. Studs stretch but not as much as bolts and they don't use the threads for strength like bolts do!
Studs can be used over and over again. Thats why I use them for my head and also for better clamping!

Quote:

Originally Posted by puTTs You can reuse ARP over and over. I'm don't know about the alignbore. I didn't think studs held "tighter" I thought you used studs because they use every thread in the block, since there in farther then a bolt they have less flexing from the main caps walking. But, I don't know, I'm used to SB mopars 318/340/360, the valve trains with fly apart long before a stock bottem goes anywhere puTTs

You can reuse ARP studs over again yes but not some bolts, IE torque to yield. Studs hold things tighter but differently than bolts, thats why it can move the bore around, as I was told by the ARP man and its on there website too! He said to install them and have it checked, they maybe ok or maybe not but I decided that I might as well go all out!

Oh, studs don't use every thread in the block. I asked him about bottoming them out and he says NO, you don't have too. As long as the main studs have around an inch of thread, they'll be strong. I never knew that and he said many people think the same as me!

[puTTs]

Good to know

If your going "ALL OUT", then get the mains drilled for pins and fab up a girtle

[cawcislo]

Yes I bought main studs from FWDperformance for my common block. The studs are too short if you decide to bottom them out, but they thread into the block at least as much as the stock bolts so I just screwed them enough to leave enough room to add the nut. I've heard others do the same and it should be fine. I'm not planning on making any more than 300-325 hp.