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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 04-24-2005, 10:46 AM   #1
Hone rough cylinder?  
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I melted a piston. I removed some melted aluminum from my cylinder wall and checked the bore size. The cylinder is OK dimensions-wise, but where the aluminum was bonded there is some texture, like fine sandpaper, to the cylinder. Can that be honed out if the bore size is still OK, or should I leave it be?
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Old 04-24-2005, 01:20 PM   #2
 
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Are you sure you got all the melted aluminum off?

I used lye (Red Devil brand) mixed with a bit of water to remove the aluminum from my cylinder wall. Apply with a q-tip or something, then let sit for a while (hours). Repeat a few times 'til all the aluminum is gone.

The lye won't hurt the block.

If you got all the aluminum off, then yeah, you'll have to hone it. You'll ruin your rings if you don't.
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Old 04-24-2005, 02:09 PM   #3
 
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Thanks, I didn't know the lye trick.
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Old 04-24-2005, 02:42 PM   #4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lametec
Are you sure you got all the melted aluminum off?

I used lye (Red Devil brand) mixed with a bit of water to remove the aluminum from my cylinder wall. Apply with a q-tip or something, then let sit for a while (hours). Repeat a few times 'til all the aluminum is gone.

The lye won't hurt the block.

If you got all the aluminum off, then yeah, you'll have to hone it. You'll ruin your rings if you don't.
Thats awesome, good tip!

When I melted a piston, it actually scored the wall so after you get the aluminum off, make sure the bore isn't scored.
Use a ball hone also, I have found that the bar type hones suck!
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:14 PM   #5
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Use a ball hone also, I have found that the bar type hones suck!
dittos...

the only reason to use the bar hones is if the bore isn't square (or close enough), which at that point you should bore, not just hone...

Check your bore sizes, and clean up that bore. Take measurements and then order the right piston for the hole - there were 3 different 'factory' sizes that they used to allow for slop in the manufacture...
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:20 PM   #6
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phreakish
dittos...

the only reason to use the bar hones is if the bore isn't square (or close enough), which at that point you should bore, not just hone...

Check your bore sizes, and clean up that bore. Take measurements and then order the right piston for the hole - there were 3 different 'factory' sizes that they used to allow for slop in the manufacture...
I think he's looking for some forged???

But I know what you mean about the diff sizes, lol!
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:41 PM   #7
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Thats awesome, good tip!

When I melted a piston, it actually scored the wall so after you get the aluminum off, make sure the bore isn't scored.
Use a ball hone also, I have found that the bar type hones suck!
didnt you read the hanyes manual yet? they use a ball hone to honed the cyclinder wall.
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Old 04-24-2005, 04:44 PM   #8
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmxrider
didnt you read the hanyes manual yet? they use a ball hone to honed the cyclinder wall.
Dude, I have been doing this since the mid 80's. Nobody had ball hones then, just bar type hones. They do work but the ball hones are much better.
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Old 04-24-2005, 05:44 PM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John B
Thanks, I didn't know the lye trick.
Well, the actual trick is to use some muriatic (hydrochloric) acid, but since I couldn't find any locally, I settled for the lye. Besides, lye works good as a drain opener, so it won't be wasting away once you've got your block cleaned up.
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Old 04-24-2005, 06:15 PM   #10
 
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the acid is easy to find, its usually in the back of the hardware store - not on the shelf because its 'hazardous'...

Hydrochloric is great, eats rust, leaves it CLEAN, and will dissolve nonferrous metals... mm-mm, tastes good too! little spicy, but hey... LOL.

Turbovanman: yup, I know whatcha mean too. I tried getting 'stock' sized pistons. Then went and found out about ABC pistons... yeah, I had 1 C, 2B's and 1 unmarked, in an engine that had been redone by a moron... So I just got som +.030's they didn't fit in any of the bores, so that was good Then had the shop bore to the pistons and now have a really nice engine... $1200 later, but hey, its worth it to have a GOOD engine... and now I've just gotta get the crank finished up, balanced, and then have some REAL fun
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Old 04-24-2005, 09:19 PM   #11
ball hone  
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Are there any tips or tricks to using a ball type hone? I've never done it, but may have to soon. Thanks, Bob
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Old 04-24-2005, 09:21 PM   #12
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turbovanman
Dude, I have been doing this since the mid 80's. Nobody had ball hones then, just bar type hones. They do work but the ball hones are much better.
im just bustin your chops man.
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:43 PM   #13
 
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cuda bob just go up and down at the same speed and use lots of wd40 and i use hot soapy water to clean the bores then i wipe them down with acetone really well befor assembly
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:56 PM   #14
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phreakish
dittos...

the only reason to use the bar hones is if the bore isn't square
So, if I want to get rid of slight irregularities in the cylinder wall from removing the aluminum, it might be better to use a bar hone?
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