Long Block Rebuild Recommendations

[flowman759]

I just wanted to see what everyone recommends for my first rebuild. I pulled an '89 2.2L TII motor from the junkyard. Just had the crank turned 10/10, the rods reconditioned, and I was notified by the shop that on two of the pistons the wrist pin retainer was coming out. So it sounds like a good time to get some new pistons. I plan on this being about a 200-250hp motor, should I go with some cast Mahle's or some forged JE's?

Any other recommendations while rebuilding? I was thinking maybe a turbo rebuild kit??

Thanks in advance.

[MVaughn]

The cast mahle are fine but what happens if you want to increase the boost/hp at a later date. Do you want to open it back up? J.E.'s are my pick, hold up great, light and have great tolerances. There are others but that is for you to decide. Check for extreme shaft play on the turbo and make sure the wheel isn't hitting the outside housing. If it is, it's toast. Do you know the mileage on the motor? I would get them to resize the rods w/ good rod bolts if you haven't already done that. Good luck.

[flowman759]

Thanks for the quick reply. Where's the cheapest place to find J.E's? I'm not sure what the mileage was on the motor. Turbo seems to be good, minimal shaft play. I had them go 10 over on the rods, but I didn't change out the studs....ARP?

This motor is going in my '88 Lebaron Turbo Coupe with an A520. Do I need to replace any transmission parts? Upgraded clutch?

Sorry for the newbie rebuild questions. I love the TD's but this is my first rebuild.

James
'88 Lebaron Turbo Coupe
'04 SRT-4

[4 L-bodies]

My recommendation to you is to spend the money and align hone and deck the block along with the overbore. They are usually are pretty far out of spec. Try to find a deck plate to rent or borrow so the cylinders are actually round when you torque the head down. I hope you spent a few extra dollars and put some good ARP hardware in the rods? Those are the most important fastener in any motor. Also a small hole drilled in small end of rod aids in oiling piston pin. I would also match the oil pump outlet (oval shaped) with the inlet in the block (round hole). All production blocks have this mismatch.
Good luck!

[Mario_Boost]

Quote:

Originally Posted by flowman759 Thanks for the quick reply. Where's the cheapest place to find J.E's? I'm not sure what the mileage was on the motor. Turbo seems to be good, minimal shaft play. I had them go 10 over on the rods, but I didn't change out the studs....ARP? This motor is going in my '88 Lebaron Turbo Coupe with an A520. Do I need to replace any transmission parts? Upgraded clutch? Sorry for the newbie rebuild questions. I love the TD's but this is my first rebuild. James '88 Lebaron Turbo Coupe '04 SRT-4

J & E's are available through Forward Motion Inc.
Other pistons available are:
Venolia's (Through FWD Performance and Turbos Unleashed)
Weiseco's (Through Turbos Unleashed)
Diamond (Through TurboDynamx)

[turbovanman]

So far, I vote for JE's, there so quiet, even when stone cold and they definately look beefy, only time will tell,

[flowman759]

Thanks for the replies. Just a couple more questions. I forgot to put in ARP rod bolts before I had the rods reconditioned. Can I just press in the ARP's now? or do I need to have then reconditioned again? Also, I'm still debating whether to get Forged pistons and go with a torque plate for bore/hone, or just got with 0.020'' 2.2L Mahle's. Since this motor is going into a Lebaron coupe I just want to make it a fun daily driver and put more $$ into my SRT4. Thoughts? Thanks.

[turbovanman]

The 2.2 pistons are less prone to cracking under detonation so if you get the tune right, you should be ok. As for the rod bolts, you will have to have them resized.

[flowman759]

Oh, so Forged pistons are recommeded more for the 2.5L motors than the 2.2's? Maybe I'll just stick with the stock rod bolts if I'm going to have to resize them again for the ARP bolts (I'd like to avoid doing that).

[mo' parts]

Quote:

Originally Posted by flowman759 Oh, so Forged pistons are recommeded more for the 2.5L motors than the 2.2's? Maybe I'll just stick with the stock rod bolts if I'm going to have to resize them again for the ARP bolts (I'd like to avoid doing that).

the stock rod bolts are pretty much throw-away's after 2-3 tourque cyles.
they should be fine for your goals.....but again, you may get the boost bug and look for more later i always use the arp's
mahles should be fine, granted you have a proper tune. just have a efficient i/c and proper gauges.
on forged pistons...im set on wiseco's plus you can get them in near the stock wrist pin size, just needs a lite hone.
and the tranny should be fine, but its a great time to change the clutch. a t2/t3 clutch will work wonders.
oh, and i definitly recomend a tourque plate.
just my .02$

[mpgmike]

PLEEEZZZE get the ARP rod bolts. That is the single biggest weak spot in the 2.2/2.5s I've torn apart! The Mahles are pretty decent. If you'd like, I could put a thermal coating on them for $7.50 each (+Shipping). This will help them live longer at a cheaper-than-forged price.

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

[1985ShlbyChrger]

edited

[tryingbe]

Wasn't the A555 also there?