Time to buy and build

[benp]

It deffinetly looks and sounds like my 2.5 will be warrenting a rebuild this winter. I was wondering what are some variations of things people have used to make a solid 300whp. Im guessin forged pistons well be a must but what other things have people found to work and run good and be aible to hold allllot of boost.

[MVaughn]

Turbo II rods that have good fasteners and good quality machine work. Pistons as you said, rods, quality machine work and careful attention to details will go along way.

[mpgmike]

While you have it apart, head porting is money well spent (or time well spent if you decide to do it yourself). Time and again it has been pointed out that our biggest "weak link" is the head. Several posts here on doing your own porting.
-Use a stock 4-bolt oil pump. Don't be tempted to go with one of those Mellings etal. high pressure jobbies.
-Before you tank your block, match the hole in the block (round stock) with the hole in the oil pump (oval). This not only adds 8 HP (according to one of Mopar's top engineers on the 2.2 racing program), but also improves oiling system.
-Snipping every other water pump blade (3 total) adds another 3 HP w/o sacrificing cooling system efficiency.
-When you get your block done, have it decked (they raise around the head bolt holes) and get it bored with a torque plate. Our engines are ones that distort significantly when the head is torqued in place.
-'89+ 2.5 turbos already have good rods. Get ARP bolts in them and then have them resized (big end). Replace the factory bushing (small end) with a genuine brass bushing. Factory bushings are brass plated steel (not as good).
-depending on what you mean by "alllot of boost", consider ARP head and main studs, too. Factory stuff is good to (I seem to recall) about 275-300 HP. Above that, ARP.
-While you have your oil pick-up tube removed, enlarge the hole at the big end for easier scavenging.
-A baffled oil pan will give noticedable HP increaces at upper RPMs. Buy or build one.

Depending on how much you do yourself, you should easily be under $1 grand (US).

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage

[PaintPeelinPbod]

Provided aftermarket oil pumps are cheaper it seems...why couldnt one use a Mellings? I mean...if hit it pumps harder, shouldnt it work a little better? I could see what your saying if they were more expensive, but mopar units are pretty pricey.

[Koreth]

I believe the concern is that the melling pump unecessarily takes more horsepower to be driven, whereas the stock pump provides enough volume and pressure and doesn't as much horsepower to be driven.

[mpgmike]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koreth I believe the concern is that the melling pump unecessarily takes more horsepower to be driven, whereas the stock pump provides enough volume and pressure and doesn't as much horsepower to be driven.

Not only that, but the high pressure pumps tend to load up the cylinder head with foamy oil, hence starving the oil pan with liquid oil. The early 2.2s used a 5-bolt oil pump. The later ones, and most all turbo engines, used the 4 bolt pump. They are quite common and, unless there was an engine problem, are in usable condition even off of a used engine. The factory 4-bolt oil pump is just the best all around choice for our application.

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage