Finally Getting Ready To Rebuild

[Mr Overkill]

Ok so im getting ready to start the machining of the "new" block THE RIGHT WAY !~!!!!!!~!~!~!~!~!~!~!~


goals are 350 hp


block and crank passed the manufulx and the sonic test (GOOD)

i am going to go .10 all the way around (pistons, rods, main) the motor is going to be balanced arp bolts on the rods.


what else should i do to make this a good stout motor


align bore?

arp main bolts?

arp STUDS ??? right now i have a few new packages of the mp head bolt kits


mp head gasket


anything else that you can think of ?????



thanks alllllllll

[Mr Overkill]

ANYONE lolol

[mpgmike]

Good luck trying to find 0.010" over pistons. The standard is a 0.020" oversized piston. Rod and crank are standard at the 0.010". I'd get the block decked to get it square and perfectly flat. I've found that they have raised spots around the head bolts, and low spots between the cylinders. Fewer head gasket problems that way. Align boring is a job that some blocks need and some do not. Your machine shop should be able to check to see if your block needs it. ARP rod bolts, recondition the rods to make the big end perfectly round (done when new rod bolts are pressed in), ARP main studs, and ARP head studs. I'm hoping you are using an '89 + block. They are much more durable than the '88 and older blocks. MP head gasket is your best choice.


While the block is apart, before you have the final tank cleaning, use a die grinder and oval out the block-to-oil pump hole in the block to match that of the oil pump. This frees upto 8 HP and improves the oiling system. Enlarge the hole in the pick-up tube so the oil pump doens't have to work as hard to suck up oil.

I perform a #4 coolant trick a little different than the one(s) in this site. I drill a hole in the freeze plug at the #4 end of the cylinder and weld in a 90' elbow of about 1/2" in diameter. I use the threaded hole on the top of the t-stat housing (or drill and tap one for heads that don't already have this hole) and install a 3/8" NPT X 1/2" flare 90' brass elbow. Next I connect the two dots with heater hose and 1/2" ss tubing.

That's about it for durability mods from my camp. Hope this helps.

mpgmike
'88 Daytona Shelby
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

[Mr Overkill]

ok yes it is a common block

the rods are getting reworked with new arp bolts

the block is getting decked and align honed if needed

gonna end up with .20 wiscos

dont know what to do with head sealing (head studs or bolts)

are main studs needed ???

the block oil passage will be taken care of

now what do you mean #4 plug the one in front of the block wont the plug be weak from drilling the plug ?? if thats a trick to do then i want to do it while i can.

[mpgmike]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Overkill dont know what to do with head sealing (head studs or bolts) are main studs needed ??? the block oil passage will be taken care of now what do you mean #4 plug the one in front of the block wont the plug be weak from drilling the plug ?? if thats a trick to do then i want to do it while i can.

ARP head studs are rather expensive, but at 300+ HP, you need the extra insurance. With a common block, you might be able to get away with main bolts just fine.

The #4 plug I referenced is the fact that the coolant comes from the water pump, up through the block into the head, then exits the t-stat housing before cooling #4 cylinder. A high percentage of engine failures are from over-temps in #4 cylinder. There is a freeze plug at the transmission end of the cylinder head (not the block). This is the one I am talking about drilling. This provides an alternative passageway for coolant to exit after cooling #4 cylinder. If you still have questions, let me know. PM me your phone # & I'll give you a call on my dime to explain better.

mpgmike
'88 Daytona Shelby
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

[Mr Overkill]

ok i know what you mean but that i dont know is is the plug going to be waek after that

if not then its a go for me then

[mpgmike]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Overkill ok i know what you mean but that i dont know is is the plug going to be waek after that if not then its a go for me then

NO No no. This doesn't weaken the plug one iota. If you look here and at www.thedodgegarage.com, there are about 3 other variations on providing cool engine coolant to cylinder #4. My was is just the way I use. It may or may not be the best, but it is an improvement over the stock shortcomings. I would research the subject and go with the process that best suits your abilities and logical reasonings. If you want, PM me your phone # & I'll call you on my dime and chat about it.

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

[Mr Overkill]

i cannot find anything on thedodgegarage i must be blind


under what section ???

[mpgmike]

I've spent over 7 hours trying to find some of the things I've run into on the #4 coolant mod and have come up dry. There is a thread on the subject here:
The #4 Coolant Mod...

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

[Mr Overkill]

thanks a ton mp
your way seems much much more easy

but if i go from the tstat housing to the side of the head wont i be moving hot coolant back into the 34 cylinder?

[mpgmike]

While I was spending 7 hours trying to find the examples I have seen over time, I ran across some old factory race engine pictures. There was an '82 twin Weber engine that had a line from the freeze plug to the side of the t-stat housing, so I figure if the factory race team used this trick, then it shouldn't be too bad.

All this does is allow some of the coolant to keep going past the thermostat housing, past #4 cylinder, and keep it cool. By placing the outlet behind the t-stat, you keep the fast engine warm-up. One guy actually relocated his thermostat to the end of the head and blocked off the factory housing outlet.

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

[Mr Overkill]

hum ok

just thought i would ask


Thanks mpmike