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08-09-2005, 12:51 AM
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#1
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Head Studs or bolts
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Garfield
My Ride: 90 daytona shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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Are head studs(ARP) better then the mp head bolts and why ??
just asking so i know planning to run 20 psi and wanna do it right
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08-09-2005, 01:07 AM
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#3
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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Originally Posted by mike boyek
studs are better but more expensive. there are many threads on the "modifications" needed for studs (cutting/washers..)
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Good answer but you have that backwards, the studs are fine but the bolts need double washers.
Dollar for dollar, studs are the way to go, better and more even clamping force and there reusable so if your like me and like experiment, you don't need to buy 10 sets of head bolts,  lol!
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08-09-2005, 07:21 AM
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#5
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Old School Hot Rodder
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Newport News, Va
My Ride: 1985 LeBaron Vert
Engine: MOPAR 2.2L
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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What mods for studs? Mine went in fine and the newer ARP studs have an allen hole in the top for easy removal. Makes getting the head off just like useing bolts, take off the nuts, unscrew the studs and it will come off easily. That used to be the main objection to studs, the head had to be pulled straight up off them and reinstalled the same way. I just used the ARP washers and nuts.
__________________
Bill Vose
Old School Hot Rodder
"Growing old is inevitable, growing up is optional"
1985 LeBaron Mark Cross convertible 2.2L TurboII
1986 Turismo 2.2 (race car)
1986 LeBaron convertible 2.2L TBI (dead)
1986 F350 Crew Cab DRW
1989 J body coupe 2.5L TurboI (parts car)
1989 J body convertible 2.5L TurboI (wrecked in front, granddaughter's car)
1993 Grand Caravan 3.3L
1995 Lincoln Continental (project car)
http://www.oldschoolhotrodder.com
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08-09-2005, 12:08 PM
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#6
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by QKsilverF1
what if you only have one washer for each headbolt???
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Use reuse one of the original bolt washers but the MP's are fine, its the ARP's that are too long so you use 2 washers, no biggie.
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08-09-2005, 12:33 PM
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#8
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by cordes
If I had the newer studs with the hex provision, I would go with studs, but geting the head out of my omni with the studs on made me want to kill whoever did not make the aforementioned provision. I am glad to hear that they are now coming that way.
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Yep, they call it "broached", they've been coming that way for a few years I believe. In my van, can't pull the head without removing them and its so easy, just use my cordless screwdriver with a allen bit on and zing them in and out,
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08-09-2005, 12:43 PM
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#10
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by cordes
i will go with studs next time then, as the head bolts start to deflate the wallet over time!
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I would have spent $1000's on head bolts,
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08-09-2005, 01:09 PM
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#11
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Centerville, TN
My Ride: 1985 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.538
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Anybody have problems with the studs fitting through the holes in a "G" casting cylinder head? I did. It really didn't make sense to me since the bolts/studs are the same thread pitch and the bolts went through no problem.
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08-09-2005, 01:19 PM
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#12
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by ShelbyGLHS592
Anybody have problems with the studs fitting through the holes in a "G" casting cylinder head? I did. It really didn't make sense to me since the bolts/studs are the same thread pitch and the bolts went through no problem. 
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Most early G-heads had 10mm head bolts so the 11mm would be a tighter fit, just need to drill out the head bolt holes and problem will be solved!
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08-09-2005, 01:27 PM
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#13
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Centerville, TN
My Ride: 1985 Shelby Charger
Engine: 2.2 turbo II
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 12.538
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by turbovanman
Most early G-heads had 10mm head bolts so the 11mm would be a tighter fit, just need to drill out the head bolt holes and problem will be solved!
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Yeah, but my 11mm head bolts slide through just fine. I was going to drill the holes out larger, but didn't have access to a drill press at the time.
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08-09-2005, 01:43 PM
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#14
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
My Ride: 1989 Turbo Caravan
Engine: 2.5L 8V Sohc
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 13.400
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 Quote:
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Originally Posted by ShelbyGLHS592
Yeah, but my 11mm head bolts slide through just fine. I was going to drill the holes out larger, but didn't have access to a drill press at the time.
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I think the studs are slightly larger. Don't need a drill press, just use a drill with a right drill bit!
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08-10-2005, 12:49 AM
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#15
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Boostaholic
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Garfield
My Ride: 90 daytona shelby
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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ok getting some good info
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