Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

shanghyd · **Block Identification**

Do these numbers look as if they could be 4315730?
If so that would make this a

1989-90 153
2.5
3.445
L-4 OHC, TURBO,
Roller Rockers, W/Steam Holes on Head Surface

Is this a good block to work with? Rebuild potential?

bluneon · 08-21-2005, 01:26 AM

do you have any more pics of this block? the casting date on it says october 4th 1988. which would make it a non CB.

i can't seem to find anything on that part # from here:
http://thedodgegarage.com/turbo_shortblock.html

mpgmike · 08-21-2005, 10:44 AM

It looks like you have the straight pan rail on the rear. Is that production date "10-4-86" or "10-4-88"? If it's '86, it wouldn't be your best choice. If it's '88, this is as good a block as you can get!

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

shanghyd · 08-21-2005, 12:12 PM

It's an 88.
What makes this a good block? So you think I should rebuild this block and not look for another?

mpgmike · 08-21-2005, 01:54 PM

10-4-88 production date makes this an '89 model year block. Since it is a turbo block, it has the oil drain tube and the "steam ports". You have a Common Block, which is as good as you can get in the TDs. This 2.5 block shares all the same dimensions with a 2.2 block, but with the addition of the counter-ballance shafts. Looking at the bottom of the block, you'll see 6 threaded holes, with a 7th smaller hole with no threads right next to one of the big threaded ones. This is your mounting system for the counter-ballance shafts. For performance, you don't want these cb shafts. To eliminate them you need to plug this 7th hole, as it is the oil feed hole for the cb shafts. Since you have it apart, you can tap it and install a plug or bolt with the strongest thread locker you can buy. I removed mine with the engine in the car and intact. I made up a piece that looks like a .22 cal shell, and using the adjacent bolt hole, held it in place with a short bolt and large fender washer (and lots of anerobic sealer on the plug).

Whether you got a turbo I, II, III, or IV in '89+, you got the block you have pictured here. Use it.

mpgmike
'88 Shelby Daytona
'91 Spirit R/T
'84 Rampage
'89 Masi TC

Koreth · 08-21-2005, 02:31 PM

Wow, that block looks clean, brand new in fact. Is it new or is it a very well done clean-up job on a used block? If the latter, how can I get the block I'm taking to the machine shop in a few weeks to look that shiny?

bluneon · 08-21-2005, 03:55 PM

they're hot tanked and cleaned up real nice. they should look like they just came out of the cast, ie; BRAND NEW. BUT you have to be quick in protecting the raw iron from flash rusting. the chiners say they use WD 40 if the block is gonna be sitting for a while.

lol. my block was nice and brown when i went by the chiners to check on my stuff...lol

shanghyd · 08-21-2005, 04:14 PM

I sent the block to city motor supply in San Antonio and they shipped it to Dallas where they do the work.
http://www.citymotorsupply.com/
I just had them clean it up and asked them to do what was necessary to get it ready for rebuilding. They just honed it, didn't need boring they said.
I was going to rebuild it but now I'm off to Germany for 3 years so the project will have to wait

aerosmith145 · 08-23-2005, 12:38 PM

one question for you guys, while we're focused on the back of the block

I have everything (i thought I did, at least) bolted on to my new engine, but these two bolt holes are left over. What mounts to them?

Sorry to hijack!

Koreth · 08-23-2005, 03:24 PM

one of those holes is for a support for one of the stock oil/water lines, the other I believe is for the exhuast manifold support bracket.

aerosmith145 · 08-23-2005, 05:22 PM

That's the thing, the turbo support bracket bolts onto the same hole as the transmission brace and starter brace... the right one in the bottom-left pair, near the oil tube.