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Engine - Block Improving strength and durability - pistons to crank

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Old 08-31-2005, 11:26 PM   #1
Machine Work Cost?  
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Finally getting around to getting my Shelby on the road or close to it. I've never had a block rebuilt or anything, however how much would just a bare common block rebuild cost? I plan on purchasing my own piston's and such but not untill I have the info from the machinist.

I would be just taking the bare engine in to get the cylinder,crank,and rod's done and I would assemble the rest of the engine myself.

Just some ball park figures will let me know where I'm standing at for $$$$

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Old 09-01-2005, 06:03 AM   #2
 
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The two I've had done were between $500 and $550. Both included cleaning, magnaflux, bore, hone, reconditioning the rods, bearing sets, and installation of intermediate shaft bearings, and freeze plugs. First one also included turning the crank, pistons, and rings. Second one I bought a reconditioned crank and had them drill/install the oil return tube, and supplied my own pistons and rings.

On top of that, I still had to buy the oil pump, water pump, seals, gaskets, and all the other little items that go with a new engine.
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Old 09-01-2005, 07:46 AM   #3
engine costs  
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To have my block cleaned, new int. bearings installed, honed(just a light cleaning of the cylinder walls) and new freeZe plugs was 200.00. I had the crank polished, and the rods cleaned and arp bolts installed. Those two cost 165.00. Around here, if you have a block bored, its usually 8.00 a hole. More important than the price is the quality, choose a good shop. I would also buy the parts yourself, like the int. bearings, freeze plugs. They tend to mark those up a lot.
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Old 09-01-2005, 08:07 AM   #4
 
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my 2.2 was cleaned, bored .020 over and honed with tourqe plate. crank checked and polished, rods were re-sized, arp waveloc's installed, extra oiling hole at small end of rod, new pin bushings. had new int. shaft bushings in block. machine shop costs were about 280.
i did all the other assembly and ordered all parts before hand. you might save a few bucks by dis-assembling the motor yourself. i did. less stuff for them to mis-place.
its best to start with a known good shortblock. and most of all, like mentioned, is making sure you are getting quality work.
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Old 09-01-2005, 08:09 AM   #5
 
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The shop I use charges---$50.00 hot tank--$8.00 a hole bore--$75.00 turn crank--$125.00 clean head, resurface and valve job--no guide work at that price--$15.00 each re-condition rods--I furnish my on parts-- bobr19
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:43 AM   #6
 
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Wow, Thank's guys's for the input, I already had the head done almost 2 years ago also another question I had was is a crank polish worth it? Maybe I'm reading things wrong awhile back but I thought that made bearing's spin?
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Old 09-02-2005, 12:00 PM   #7
 
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bearings spin from oil starvation. from a blockage in the oil gallery or too little clearance between the journal and bearing. if you catch it soon enough the only thing you'll see is that the bearing is turning black. it might be still ok if the caps were only alittle black from overheating, but it's shot once the bearings spin.

worse case is the bearings overheat severly and fuse to the journal. that's when you need to get the journal cut and polished. my crank was cut and polished 10/20 cuz my rod bearings got fused to the crank.
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