Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

86Shelby · **Use a sleeve or find a new block?**

I picked up a rebuilt TIII engine from a local machine shop a while back. I was hoping to relube the bottom end and put in my R/T. Anyways there is a very sizeable gouge in one of the bores. Absoultely not useable like that. I can't complain, I got it for a song.

Would I be better off just getting the block sleeved or should I find a different common block and machine it for the TIII goodies I have? The pistons are already 1mm over. I'm hoping to be able to put down in the neighborhood of 425+WHP all said and done.

mpgmike · 09-04-2005, 09:49 PM

Why don't you spend a few bucks & get it sonic tested. You can go a full 0.060" over on a solid block. This is a 3.50" bore. The only difference I'm aware of between the TIII block and the garden variety is the lack of provisions for a distributor (no hole).

Mike

Una · 09-04-2005, 10:21 PM

Yeah, but he already has a set of .040 over pistons.. And you'd be ordering your own custom run of .060 pistons, that'd be awefully expensive..

Moparbishi · 09-04-2005, 10:53 PM

bore and sleeve might be the cheapest way. and a good way to add some more stregnth to it./

**glhs727** · 09-05-2005, 12:19 AM

Sleeve it. Won't cost much, and won't hurt anything as long as you only need one. I did it on one of my cars. engine has 35,000 miles on it and still running strong.
later,
Cindy

86Shelby · 09-09-2005, 09:51 PM

Thanks for the info. I was uncertain of the strength of a sleeved cylinder.

turbovanman · 09-10-2005, 12:57 AM

Find out how much it costs to sleeve it, then make your decision.

bluneon · 09-10-2005, 01:44 AM

remember: 1 sleeve at most. if you must have 2, they can NOT be adjacent to each other. ie: sleeving #1-2 or 2-3 or 3-4. block integrity would be compromised if this is done.

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_shortblock.html

i'm in the process of deciding to sleeve if i'm not able to find a decent block locally to use.

86Shelby · 09-10-2005, 11:22 PM

Cost isn't too much different. Buy a core block-65; clean, deck, bore&hone, drill holes for oil drainback and PCV vent- 110-120 Figure a little over 200 for a finished block.

Sleeve, bore and hone cylinder- 185.

Moparbishi · 09-11-2005, 12:19 AM

well if you can get the block doen for tht chep i would go ahead and do that.

Capt. Chrysler · 09-19-2005, 07:39 PM

I just had 4 sleeves put in a 440. No problem!!

bluneon · 09-19-2005, 10:12 PM

the 'chiners charge 110 per sleeve. what's included is the sleeve itself and the labor; bore, press, bore and hone.

bluneon · 10-08-2005, 07:19 PM

well, luck has it that i did not need any sleeving at all. the .020 bore was able to clean out the cylinder. so if you're lucky you might not actually need any sleeving especially if you allready have oversized pistons. (assuming that the cylinder bores are standard sized.)

my worse case scenario was having 2 sleeves put in but nope. not a single one.

saved myself 220 bucks!

oldgregg · 10-08-2005, 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluneon

remember: 1 sleeve at most. if you must have 2, they can NOT be adjacent to each other. ie: sleeving #1-2 or 2-3 or 3-4. block integrity would be compromised if this is done.

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_shortblock.html

That is my old TII block.
All was OK until the 3rd sleeve was installed.

allmotor · 10-09-2005, 09:05 AM

there is nothing wrong with sleeveing the block... provided it's done right. 15 years ago I sleeved a 1000hp 426 hemi for a friend, it's still running great and making plenty of power. some tips for success is to warm the block (about 150°) and chill the sleeve (I use dry ice) then coat the bore with green locktite sleeve retainer. drive in the sleeve and finish machine/hone