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09-24-2005, 11:31 PM
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#16
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Bremerton, WA
My Ride: Horizon GLH-T
Engine: 2.5L Turbo
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.900
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I think the rods have been brought up in just about every reply to this thread. I think he got the idea. They're weak.. But since it's an '88, let them blow, then upgrade to a common block..  At least, that's my idea with my Horizon..
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09-24-2005, 11:43 PM
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#17
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Crown Point, IN
1/4: 0.000
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no.... They haven't.. Reread some of the replies.. People mentioning 2.5s, "non-common block 2.2", "not leaning out on your A/F gauge".... Thats not HIS motor which is a non-common block 2.2 motor with LW rods..
The block is fine, the pistons are fine..the rods are garbage
He needs to understand that his specific motor prob won't last at those levels... hell, it may not last past next week at stock levels
You can't simply fix it once it breaks. I have onethat is totally worthless, the rods took out the crank and the block, and the piston at the same time at stock boost. I don't wanna see someone set themselves up for disaster because the guys on the internet said it was *ok*.... tell him how to do it the right way so he doesn't have to pull a toasted block, and then installing another lw bottom end ..
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09-29-2005, 01:29 AM
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#18
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hanover park illinois
My Ride: 1986 lancer ES
Engine: t1 135
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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not to hi-jack the thread would it be ok to find a set of t2 rods or early style (i think pre 86' rods) and stick em in an 86 block? I mean as long as theyre in decent shape and nothing has been oversized it should be fine to do this right? Also what am i looking for if im going to find the old heavy weight rods,they came in carbed cars correct?
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09-29-2005, 02:32 AM
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#19
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Carlisle, Pa
My Ride: 91 Sundance RS
Engine: 2.5
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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I totally agree, dont wait untill there is a hole in the side of the block to fix the problem, so it now while it is still good tear it appart and make it better.
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09-29-2005, 08:11 AM
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#20
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hanover park illinois
My Ride: 1986 lancer ES
Engine: t1 135
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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so basically the block isnt the limiting factor in an 86 its the rods
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09-29-2005, 08:03 PM
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#23
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: st.louis, missouri
My Ride: 86 shelby charger
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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i think im gonna do this same thing. i got a t2 block out their with one thrown rod everything else looks to be ok, so im either gonna have the cranked turned and put in new rings, and replace that rod.... or just rebuild one of the 2 common blocks i have
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09-29-2005, 11:38 PM
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#24
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hanover park illinois
My Ride: 1986 lancer ES
Engine: t1 135
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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awesome news,looks like im going to the junkyard tomorrow,theres an 89 lebaron with the 2.5 t1 and i think im gona snatch me some heavyweights,then after i get my lancer running well at around 10 psi after the t2 conversion ill bump her up to say around 15 with a cutout rasier and go from there,at least this way i wont have to worry too much about tossing a rod thru my rebuilt block. Another question;it is possible to remove the piston and the rod without removing the cylinder head correct? and if i can remove them i can replace them with no problem correct?
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09-29-2005, 11:39 PM
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#25
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hanover park illinois
My Ride: 1986 lancer ES
Engine: t1 135
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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also any signs to look for like oil color scratches anything like that? Tell me everything i wana know to checking size to reinstalling them. Also what is the hp limit for an 86 crank?
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09-29-2005, 11:49 PM
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#26
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: st.louis, missouri
My Ride: 86 shelby charger
Engine: 2.2
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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+1
i wanna know that too im not having someone else mess with my block but me, only thing im goin to a machine shop is to have my crank turned the honing and rebuild ill do but will be my first time and granpal is gonna help me
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09-30-2005, 12:13 AM
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#29
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: hanover park illinois
My Ride: 1986 lancer ES
Engine: t1 135
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 0.000
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damnit,i just put the head and everything back together less than 2 weeks ago,i guess i will just pick up the heavyweight rods and wait until i figure out what im going to do,im not pulling the head again so soon,ill just be easy on the car and only run around 14 lbs of boost,hopefully with zero interior and alot of aluminum she'll be quick enough
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09-30-2005, 11:55 AM
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#30
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Naturally Aspirated
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Penticton, BC, Canada
My Ride: Shelby Z's
Engine: 2.2 TII's
Induct: Turbo
1/4: 14.910
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If you just want to swap rods for a little more durability, I'd look for early rods instead of TII/2.5TI rods so you can keep your pistons. Save a little cash there.
Also I've run 14+ psi daily on 2 of my LW rod engines with no failures. Yes it can happen, but the odds are that it'll hold up fine. If it was me, I'd start workin on building a common block engine and then just run the early one till it blows.
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