Help me plan my shortblock?

[Koreth]

I got a call from the machine shop today, they have checked out the shortblock I took down to the shop and they said it looks to be in good shape. He said the crank just needs a polish and it can stay standard on the rods and mains. He did recommend boring to .020 over. He also said most of the paint that is currently on the block will likely come off when it is hot-tanked, so it will probably need to be re-painted as well. I know that after it is hot-tanked, it will need new freeze plugs and intermediate shaft bushings installed, so I'll be ordering those here soon.

I've got some ARP main studs and and Wav-Loc rod bolts on order from TU, and was wondering what I should have done to the block besides having the rods re-sized for the new bolts and having the cylinders bored. I plan to get my hands on a torque plate so when the bores are honed for new pistons, they can be honed with a torque plate. I didn't know if the mains would need to be align-honed when I the mains are installed or not. If they are, I think I'd like to have the block decked at the same time so the deck is nice and parallel with the mains.

I feel like I am forgetting some work that should be done on the block, but I cannot think of what it should be. Can you guys help me think of what else I should have done to the block so it is done right the first time?

Edit: Yes, I do plan on forged pistons for this guy. It is a 2.5L. I am only planning for 200-250 hp to start, but I figure I'd save money in the long run if the shortblock was overbuilt, and overbuilt right the first time. That way, I'd only have to build it once.

[cawcislo]

Anytime you use ARP studs for the mains you need to align hone the mains, the machine shop can do it no prob. Make sure to resize the rods once the ARP rod bolts are installed (I'm sure the machine shop will do that). Weighing the pistons and rods and getting them all within a gram could also help and also balancing the crank can also help a bit (although there are arguments that balancing our cranks isn't that necessary). Good luck.

[Koreth]

Nobody has any input on what I should have done to the block besides, yes, have the mains and rods resized for the ARP hardware?

[moparzrule]

Looks like you have it all covered, unless if you want you can port-match the oil pump hole to the pump for a couple extra HP gain and don't forget to plug the balance shaft oil hole if you're not using them.

[mo' parts]

have the machine shop add the x-tra pin oiling hole in the small end of the rod, i think its 3/32".
if your gonna be running high(er) boost, say 20+, you can open up the ring gaps slightly.
other than that, you pretty much have it down.

[Koreth]

New question. Do I have to make any changes to the block or head to make use of the ARP head studs?

[mo' parts]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Koreth New question. Do I have to make any changes to the block or head to make use of the ARP head studs?

nope!

[daytonairoc]

When it comes to resizing the rods. I found buy FWDP's resized, shotpeened, oil hole drilled rods cheaper then having them resized by a machine shop. Thats one way to keep costs down.

You might want to think about the crankscrapers too.

[Koreth]

I can't find those anywhere on the FWDP website. Am I looking in the wrong spot? I'd think they'd be under the Engine or Garage Sale sections.

[daytonairoc]

thats a good question. I bought my a year ago from them for 200 bucks

I did a search on their site. I found them, but the price is now 230

later