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How much fuel pressure to idle

3K views 51 replies 7 participants last post by  NAJ 
#1 ·
Well I've been trying to get the parts car daytona running before I pull the motor and electronics. 84 t1 car. My goal is to just get it to idle. The fuel pump took a crap so I rigged a gas can with an inline pump that produces 40psi of fuel pressure. Shouldn't that be enough to get the car started? It will fire on starting fluid but not on gasoline. Auto part Fuel line Electrical wiring Wire Engine
 
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#5 ·
+1 Gotta have that signal, or no bang bang.

No but I can try that. I believe I have a spare distributer I may throw in to see if the hep is bad. Someone suggested the injectors may be stuck shut. The car has sat quite a while so I was wondering the likeliness of that as well
If there's no HEP signal, just the HEP needs replaced.
No need to remove the distributor for that.
 
#14 ·
Naj . Ok so I replaced the injectors, rail ,harness and distributor with 85 units I had sitting around, they made no difference. Then I forgot I had to run that diag you put on here. When I manually ground the asd I hear all kind of clicking coming from 2 areas in the engine Bay Area . No fuel pump noise still because I think it's just burned out. The pump ran for like 3 seconds when I first started trying to get this thing started groaning and just stopped running and never ran again.

Any way after I grounded the asd I tried starting it and it sputtered and seemed like it wanted to start so bad! it did that a few times and this is where I'm at now. So idk where to go from here. I now have an aftermarket fuel pressure reg that's adjustable and has a gauge on it . I know the online pump I have rigged up to the gas can is pushing like 45 lbs of fuel pressure which should be plenty to get it to idle. So now what. I'm thinking the asd has an issue . How do I fix this. Please help!!
 
#18 ·
Depends on what you find.
1)If power is present at all 3 components then you need to move on to the next step in the diagnostic process which would Be checking for spark and fuel pressure.
2)If power is not present at one component but present at the others then you have a wiring issue.
3)If power is not present at any component then you need to check the ASD relay circuit which includes the PM, LM and all wiring in between.

NO START DIAGNOSTICS
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358231-no-start-no-spark-84-90-a.html

CHECKING FUEL PRESSURE
http://www.turbododge.com/forums/f4/f14/358339-checking-fuel-pressure-84-93-turbo.html
 
#19 ·
I know I have spark because if I feed it starting fluid it will run , and I have a gauge hooked up to a aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure reg. it's showing enough pressure to run the car so my thinking is possibly asd or wiring .also when I pulled the origional injectors the nozzles were bone dry like they haven't sprayed any fuel in a long time
 
#21 ·
With the ASD relay manually actuated(Will set a Code 42 in memory) the fuel pump should be running constantly.
If not you need to verify 12 volts is present and the ground has continuity to ground.
If both the power feed and ground check OK if the pump is not running then you need to replace the pump.
 
#22 ·
Well just a quick update I messed with the car a little after I got off my midnight shift . I grounded the asd and it puked gas on the motor out of the stock lines. My own stupid fault I put a hose that links the feed to the return so that won't happen again. I still have to go buy a volt meter but it seems like the asd is actuating the pump randomly when I ground the asd through the diag plug. Also I upped the fuel pressure to 60 lbs. no change there. Notes: every time I turn the key on I rear a buzz in the engine bay by the throttle body. Sounds like a small electric motor. Runs for about 4 seconds. I touched the wires that hook up to the distrubuter and heard an electric buzz come from the distributer it happened a few times I unplugged the dist and plugged it back in and it never did it again. This is puzzling , I hope the wiring in this car isn't all messed up.
 
#24 ·
Ok so I did the diag and now I'm totally lost. Everything checked out hep asd coil ignition components. I have no idea what's wrong with this thing. I went to check codes and no codes appeared . But the throttle body repeatedly made a noise like a fuel pump kinda noise and then a popping noise came from the coil. It went throttle body noise then 3 pops from the distributer . And it did this repeatedly until I put the key in the off position. It seems like it fires on one cyl while trying to start it makes the car sputter a bit. But I noticed one of the injectors was open a tiny bit when I swapped out the fuel rail so my guess is it's firing on that cyl that's getting a tiny bit of fuel from that leaky injector. I'm out of ideas now and I have no idea what to do now.
 
#27 ·
Another common problem is the fuel rail ground strap. Its a "mesh" wire strap that bolts from the intake to the firewall. Usually it is ran off one of the fuel rail mounting bolts. I would try to run a wire from your fuel rail to a good known ground. Make sure both ends are clean, with good contact. Over time they corrode and lose continuity, causing a no fire condition on the injectors.
 
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