Garage Storage Organization and Garage Cabinets

**looneytuner** · **should be sticky**

I replaced map and still getting code 13. where to now???

From turbovanman
Check for manifold vacuum to the MAP, if you have it, by pass the Baro solenoid and see if it still trips the code, if no, then bypass baro for the test or replace it. If the yes, get a multimeter and backprobe the middle wire, at idle, you should see around 1.5 volts, start to give it gas and boost, should go up, if yes and the code trips, you need a computer.

After you have fixed that, clear memory and go for a drive, hook into your ox signal wire for your af guage. Set multimeter at 1 V DC. At idle, it should be bouncing between 0-1 volts. If its stuck, unplug brake booster, if it doen'st move, replace ox sensor. If its stuck in the higher range, then your rich, if down more, your lean. Now rev and hold it at 2500 rpm, if it toggles, then thats all good. If not, then your too rich. Fix the richness then recheck. Also check the ox for full rich by inducing propane into the t/b at idle, it should go to 1 volt, or at least .8 volts. If everything looks good, I would replace the ca to finish her off and it should pass easily. PHEW!

kpic · 06-04-2006, 06:54 AM

I had a bad Baro pressure sensor, tripped a code 13 the whole time but also the engine was extremely rich. Its a dealer only item.

**looneytuner** · Or

Quote:

Originally Posted by kpic

I had a bad Baro pressure sensor, tripped a code 13 the whole time but also the engine was extremely rich. Its a dealer only item.

spare parts bin or junkyard. I'm at the point where it looks like the computer is bad. I'm going to clean the computer contacts and apply dielectric grease to them. sounds like you are straightening out a hillbilly Bob car also. Keep at it. As soon as this is emmissions fridndly, it's sold for $4,500.

GLHNSLHT2 · 06-04-2006, 12:18 PM

Get a mityvac and put it on the MAP line and make sure it holds vacuum. if it's not holding vacuum the code will trip.

**looneytuner** · **Will try**

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2

Get a mityvac and put it on the MAP line and make sure it holds vacuum. if it's not holding vacuum the code will trip.

I have replaced the o2 (for grins) the map x2, baro x2, computer (89 this is 88 car),
Got 2 mighty vacs. Couldn't find first one and bought another.
do you mean the line to the map FROM the baro?? or to the baro and ???? through to the map??? the map and baro on now are from a good running TC with no codes. I have a vac block hooked up. I was getting code 13 before and figured that was the simplest way to make sure there were not leaks.

I'm almost thinking I need to run a continuity test from the middle map wire to the pin 1 on the computer.!!!!! Come to think of it I can just jumper that wire.????

GLHNSLHT2 · 06-04-2006, 01:29 PM

Here's why I like the factory 4 way. I can pull it off the intake and plug my mityvac in and test every line at once. I'd test every line and the vac block. Have you run a vac line directly from your vac block to the map itself bypassing the baro solenoid?

That is a good idea about continuity and a good thing to check. But usually an electrical glitch will trip a code 14. I wouldn't jumper anything.

**looneytuner** · **Have fsm will trace**

Quote:

Originally Posted by GLHNSLHT2

Here's why I like the factory 4 way. I can pull it off the intake and plug my mityvac in and test every line at once. I'd test every line and the vac block. Have you run a vac line directly from your vac block to the map itself bypassing the baro solenoid? YEP

That is a good idea about continuity and a good thing to check. But usually an electrical glitch will trip a code 14. I wouldn't jumper anything.

I have the TC manual which is dynomite. The black and blue (what I feel like) wire has 4 way splice and goes to pin 4. the violet white has a spice and goes to pin13. the spice goes to the tps and the other tps after splice for the black and blue wire goes to pin 4. the dark green white goes straight to pin one.

At least on a TC. the wiring was done in spain.

turbovanman · 06-04-2006, 03:01 PM

Check for continuity, obviously if thats good, a new computer is in order. Keep us informed. As long as the computer fits, just plug it in and see if the code resets, driveablitly at this point is moot.

**looneytuner** · 06-04-2006, 03:28 PM

Continuity good on all wires. Just figured out the TC manual list pin out upside down and backwards.???????? I guess it's good in Italy where the right fender goes on the other side of the car. Minimopars info is better.
I'm missing something. car now has the map and baro and computer from Running TC. At least till I just canabalized it. Think I'll do mighty vac on fpr to see if it sucks gas. and map to see if there is any leakage, but how can there be if it was good on TC??? I think the clue is the 1 minute till the code shows up after starting. is that the normal way the code triggers??
When the going gets tough, call.............................................. ................

MIGHTYVAC!~!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!

turbovanman · 06-04-2006, 03:37 PM

I think the code routine is 30secs to around 2 mins, so yeah, one minute is fine.

**looneytuner** · **Difference in TC manual and minis site**

two pics to show how the Italians "do it backwards" flip back and forth between two to see difference.

Turbodave · 06-04-2006, 04:25 PM

Everytime I've had a code 13 on an 88-89 car it was always caused by a leaking fuel pressure regulator (getting fuel into the vacuum line). It sounds like you plan on checking that out, but thought I would share.

**looneytuner** · 06-04-2006, 04:50 PM

maybe??? I found the problem??? Why am I getting 22 " of vac to the baro solenoid???when the boost gauge says 14" vac??? Yes inches not metric scale.

I have the baro line run to the vac block.
Yep I checked the fpr. Not sucking gas and holding vac.

**looneytuner** · **Mightyvac one was dropped on it's head.**

RECAP

Everything checks out? Vac to baro 15". All parts are good still throws code 13. Tomorrow I will clean the connectors at computer again, and tighten the sockets for the 3 wires. All 3 wires showed continuity from one end to the other.
QUESTION
Is the baro supposed to click on when it's plugged in and key is ON without the engine running??? Or it normally off. Back to scour minmopar's brain for now.

minmopar quote
The logic module uses this solenoid to switch the MAP sensor input from the manifold to the atmosphere. It does this to take a reading of the barometric pressure so that it can calculate the incoming air density for boost control. The solenoid is momentarily activated at closed throttle, once per closure but no more often than once every three minutes and within a certain engine speed band.

On some engines, this solenoid can cause the engine to "miss" at idle because the computer does not "ignore" the MAP sensor reading when it is sampling the outside barometric pressure. This is simply a software fluke that can be ignored.

Fault Codes

When the logic module is turning on or off the baro solenoid, it momentarily checks the output of the solenoid driver to see if it is responding the way it should. If it does not see about 0V when on (open circuit) or 12V when off (short circuit), a fault code 37 is stored.

Monday morning...
Somebody has been through all the wiring before me (no cloth wrap under conduit) I guess I'll check that the baro is getting signal. The code takes a minute to set. If the baro isn't getting power when the computer thinks it is, that might be the source of problem. I read where sometimes the baro circuit doesnt set a 37.

**looneytuner** · **I am a dumbazz**

I won't go into the humiliating details, but it has to do with the stock bov line. At least I can have dreams about the wiring harness and the connections for the mpa and baro now.