what changes made the most difference.....timing or fuel?? I suppose dyno is more needed for timing changes? How did lillknockmeter perform during dyno pulls? nice #s!! land
sorry questions were not so clear.
when you were on the dyno adjusting the timing map for max hp/torque, did you use the lilknockmeter/detonation sensor to determine max timing, or did you use another method?
Also, from your original tune, compared to the dyno tune, which changes made the most difference in hp/tq, fuel,or ignition timing?
thanks Land
Fuel is adjusted first to the optimal setting which is depended on the fuel type and RPM, then timing is added until there is no more HP gain, then you back off timing until at no HP gain point, then add more boost, then rinse and repeat. Knock sensor isn't really used in this process as I was told by the dyno tuner that if there is knock, you'll see sudden lost of power on the dyno.
My street tune was a very conservative tune.
First dyno out of the box I did was at 9psi then slowly creep to 13psi, I was surprised it made 250whp. The cam timing was 2 degree advanced, I retarded it to 2 degree retard. The peak HP number didn't change, but the retard did slow down the rapid torque drop off after after peak HP and gained 20hp at the 7000rpm point and we stopped there with the cam timing. That is the redline dyno on the pictures.
We then upped the boost 2-3psi at time, did a run, changed fueling. 15psi made around 270whp, then we added more timing, hp went up. 21psi made around 320whp, then we up the boost to 24psi, and changed added timing to get it to 350whp.
thanks for reply.....re read some of Hoffman/cramer Hp fuel injection book this am, understanding more, but nice to hear how a real world tune was done with a turbo dodge.
did you use ms tuner studio to make the adjustments to timing and fuel?
did you use your own wideband to monitor a/f ratios or do dyno people have their own a/f and egt instrumentation?
Thanks, land
For the timing wheel you welded to the crank pulley. They have to be steel for the timing sensor to read them right? I love my aluminum UDP and really wouldn't want to lose it. Good Results. I'm not surprised you made 250hp at such a low boost # at all.
posting pics of adjustable 4.6/5.4 ford crank sensor setup (by BBK)
no it won't fit a 2.2 but it comes close enough someone handy might be able to make a hub that fits it to the center of the pulley by the bolts
I have one for my truck so I tried it against the crank pulley .. bolt spacing is definitely wrong - an entire center for it would have to be made - or something to space it out above the heads of the pulley bolts as they prevent it from sitting flat in the center of the pulley
- something like a thick aluminum washer with a hole for the center bolt and 4 or 5 bolt head reliefs drilled into the backside of it (?)
Do you think it's the extreme flow that gives that awesome horsepower at such low boost? What did it run at the baseline 9 PSI? This is the concept I am shooting for with the durability build on my GLHS I was telling you about. I am considering using the socketed SMEC and change to the SMEC mod harness on it like you had suggested. I will have to buy another megasquirt for the S/C drag car though. Maybe I would be better off getting a socketed LM and doing the eprom flash stuff? I am trying to keep the GLHS as stock appearing as possible. Looking for a super 60 or TIII or Masi intercooler.
I'm not sure if this question was directed to me but I'll answer.
Flow is key to make power. The classic 300ft lb and 200hp dyno on 2.2/2.5 turbo dodge is because the stock cylinder heads just don't flow. You need flow to make horse power. Make the cylinder head flow, peak power will come after 6000RPM instead of 4000 RPM.
This is the concept I am shooting for with the durability build on my GLHS I was telling you about. I am considering using the socketed SMEC and change to the SMEC mod harness on it like you had suggested. I will have to buy another megasquirt for the S/C drag car though. Maybe I would be better off getting a socketed LM and doing the eprom flash stuff? I am trying to keep the GLHS as stock appearing as possible. Looking for a super 60 or TIII or Masi intercooler.
Distributor and HEP robs power due to inaccurate and inconstant spark timing. You can see this happen when you use a timing gun to time the 2.2/2.5 engine.
If the LM works, leave the wiring and upgrade to 87 TII LM would be my suggestion.
Can't tell you power numbers, between the dynos, different intercooler, different turbo, different fuel, different muffler were used. What I can tell you is what timing I used.
Timing on the 290whp on E85, on LM and HEP.
Timing on 350whp on E54, on Microsquirt and 36-1 wheel.
Broke an axle trying to launch it with drag radials and 4000rpm. Didn't get a pass. :surprise:
Upped the boost and took it to DynoJet ($50 per 3 runs vs $250 / hr at Dyno Dynamics). 367whp, boost spiked over 29psi and come back around 26psi
More importantly, I can get a nice flat torque curve with 7psi boost that creep to 13psi and make 248whp at 12.5psi. Good for 1st and 2nd gear pull on the street.
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