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Engine Management, Fuel, Spark, EGTs, and Air/Fuel Ratios This forum includes modification, tuning, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of all components mentioned above including SMEC, SBEC, Logic Modules, aftermarket engine management, etc. Nitrous oxide posts go in here. This is the place

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Old 02-20-2007, 08:13 PM   #16
 
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Pic looks good!

Why did you not get the cable with the db cable connector already soldered?
I definately want to get megasquirted!
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:12 PM   #17
 
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Old 02-24-2007, 05:27 PM   #18
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazymadbastard
Pic looks good!

Why did you not get the cable with the db cable connector already soldered?
I definately want to get megasquirted!
It looks like he's using a Relay box.
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Old 02-25-2007, 12:06 AM   #19
 
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relay box, individual wiring runs from the relay box to each sensor, no splices. trying to make it as troubleshooting friendly as possible

i bought a premade cable to connect the relay box to the ecu just because i hate soldering cables together lol.


i was planning on turning the car over tonight but we are getting a nasty ice storm and its cold and i have to work in the morning so im taking a break for tonight.. but the car is mostly wired up, i have the battery and new tray i made sitting just in front of the passenger headlight, the coil mounted sideways in between the battery and shock tower on the fender, pulled the power steering pump and looped the line for aesthetic purposes, i have all of the wiring done for the hep, tps, coolant temp and iat sensors, got my exhaust back in last night with the wideband bung in the downpipe about where the cat would be and have the wiring done for that.

its looking really damn clean, 3/4ths of the wiring is hidden and what is visible is fricton taped and wrapped in plastic loom stuff. no more dangling crap and zip ties all over the place for me heh


i still have to wire all the headlights and wipers and stuff like that, but its real close to being able to crank


this is the only new pic i have and you cant really see much, but i guess i may as well post it. its sloppy looking in there because everything is still under construction, but when im done, the only colors under the hood are going to be black, aluminum, and red vacuum lines and spark plug wires



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Old 02-25-2007, 10:30 AM   #20
 
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thats so awesome.........
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Old 02-27-2007, 03:35 AM   #21
 
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according to my iat sensor it was 39 degrees in the garage tonight, the coolant sensor was showing 37...

and they were both doing it because i turned the ignition on


tps is responding as well... hehe i am so excited, im almost done. i wired the fuel pump output of the relay board to the fuel pump feed on the bulkhead connector as well, but it wasnt priming for some reason... im going to deal with that tomorrow though. the dome and gauge lights werent working either, so i have some more work to do in figuring out where the hell to send stuff into the stock dash wiring



i really think it would be easier to wire up a totally new dash than messing with interfacing into the stock crap... wish i could afford to do that right now
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Old 02-27-2007, 07:35 AM   #22
 
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Hey have you seen this?
you have Logworks so this is a link where you can datalog all of the MS info in LW2

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...ead.php?t=5434

I'm not up on MS so I'm not sure if its only a certain version of MS or what. All I know is if I am to build another project it will use MS(I have SDS now)
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Old 02-27-2007, 04:19 PM   #23
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My wiring looks like someone braided it, I've been meaning to clean up the wiring when the cold Stops!, are you using a resistor between your MS and Lc-1! I didn't do this and i ended up burning out the Lc-1, 3 weeks on a NBo2 sensor before they send me a new one.

are you interested in fuel , spark and msq's ?
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:22 PM   #24
 
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i havent locked down the o2 wiring yet so im still not sure about the resistor.. ive heard that in the newer production lc1's it isnt necessary, but i havent done much research on it yet honestly


no recent progress because ive been laying in bed sick as hell all week. i think being out in that cold ass garage every night finally caught up with me. ugh
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Old 03-11-2007, 11:55 PM   #25
 
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almost done, and i finally made a bonehead mistake lol.. guess it was bound to happen at some point.. finally wired the starter relay up tonight and went to test it.. i turn the ignition on and i hear the solenoid go clickclickclickclickclick then next to me i hear SIZZLE POP.. lol


a nice little mushroom cloud rose from the passenger seat next to me, which is where the relay board happened to be sitting at the time.. i look at it, and the large ground trace on the pcb had blown the hell up hehe... guess the starter needs more ground than that


of course i had forgotten to ground the block to the battery/chassis


i did the same god damn thing back when i first went to start the black car after finishing the engine/interior/everything swap from the red car too.. only that time i didnt have as good of an excuse since i was using all the factory wiring and that big ground connection was just dangling there unhooked.. this time i had to fabricate and route a whole new system so i dont feel quite as retarded heh


anyway, i took care of the trace with a giant blob of solder and some rtv. good as new


i got a lot of other stuff done today, spent 8 hours out there.. this was the first time in almost 2 weeks ive been healthy enough to work on it so i was busting ass. my new wiring harness is 90% done, everything necessary for the car to run and drive is hooked up, fricton taped, and routed neatly.. the engine bay is looking like hot sex i still have to connect the alternator and find a place for the external voltage regulator, and mount the megasquirt and relay board somewhere in the car, and i havent started wiring for the lights/wipers/signals etc... so theres still a good bit of work to be done, but toimorrow i hope to start it up finally, and my goal is to have it totally finished by the 20th so i can drive it to my interview with the ibew and use it as a rolling resume hehe..

ill have lots of pics soon, and when im totally done ill be doing a how to for sure.. cause its been cake so far.. the only hard part has been collecting the information to get it running with our setup.. its all out there.. just in 100 different places
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Old 03-12-2007, 01:15 AM   #26
 
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shadetreeshop, what did you mean by this?

Quote:
My wiring looks like someone braided it, I've been meaning to clean up the wiring when the cold Stops!, are you using a resistor between your MS and Lc-1! I didn't do this and i ended up burning out the Lc-1, 3 weeks on a NBo2 sensor before they send me a new one.
i have MSII v3.0 and a newer LC1....did they change something in my later revision to not need the resistor?
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Old 03-12-2007, 02:14 AM   #27
 
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yes, after june of 06 there was a complete redesign. if your lc1 came in a black and blue box you have the new one and no resistor is necessary, if yours came in a beige box you have the older one that is vulnerable to voltage spikes killing it





from diyautotune---



First... the issue is that if there is a voltage differential or any other cause that would pull your 5v output to anything above 5v it could burn out the DAC on the older model LC-1. Wired properly most people never had a problem with them but Innovate decided to make the circuit infinitely more robust now and provided an updated version of the product, and RMA'd any units that were damaged due to the 'issue'. They were truly a class act in how they handled this.

The 'older model' LC-1's were up until about June 2006, in white/beige box. The new models were sold since then and Innovate updated the packaging at about the same time to a blue/black box. The more definitive way is to determine which model you have is to check the serial number. The serial for the LC-1s with the analog output fix are LC11188 forward and all LC-1s that start with CLC.

Either way-- wiring it according to the docs is the most important thing. Not just for longevity for for accuracy as well. You don't want a voltage differential in your readings so you definitely want to ground your LC-1 at the same point as your ECU (assuming you're feeding the output back into the ECU) or datalogger if that's what you're using. Then ground the heater ground to a separate point as per the docs. This will make even the old LC-1's last forever in my experience.... See the FAQ entry below for more info on this.

Last edited by saw wave analog : 03-12-2007 at 02:17 AM.
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Old 03-14-2007, 09:33 PM   #28
 
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got it idling






had an issue with the idle being rediculously high for a little bit until i realized that the iac plunger was probably open... sure was. packed the port in the tb with jb weld.. nothing like brute force problem solving


i should be done with all of the lighting/signal wiring in a couple hours, and thats the end of the wiring.. the harness should be totally done tonight. woohoo.


hoping to take it for a drive tomorrow... and i cant wait


soon as i have everything dialed in ill get to work on the turbo dodge specific install walkthrough.. should be up within a week or so

Last edited by saw wave analog : 03-14-2007 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 03-15-2007, 12:48 PM   #29
 
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the engine bay is looking like hot sex
WOW! Ive never heard a TD in any reference to that!!
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Old 03-18-2007, 09:10 PM   #30
 
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any more updates from the weekend? Im just dying to hear more, this is somthing i have thought about doing for a little while now.
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