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Engine Management, Fuel, Spark, EGTs, and Air/Fuel Ratios This forum includes general electrical, modification, tuning, repair, replacement, identification and restoration of all components mentioned above including SMEC, SBEC, Logic Modules, aftermarket engine management, etc. Nitrous oxide posts go in here. This is the place

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Old 06-03-2007, 04:22 AM   #1
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I just got a nice 90+ Lebaron digital dash. It looks in great condition, and came with the connectors. My question is, do I just cut the plugs off my dash in my car and solder the wires to the new digital dash plugs according to color? Will they be the same color? What do I need to do to make this dash work in my 93 Daytona? Let me know, thanks.
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Old 06-03-2007, 08:45 AM   #2
 
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Normally it works out to being the same color, yes. When I did mine, the only problem I really had was that on the digi dash the ground was black/green and not just black. It made it a little confusing, and I almost burnt out the dash because of it, but got it going.

Just don't mount it right away, after putting it all together, just sorta lay it in place and start your car. Also, if you install it wrong, and have the car in the "on" position, but not started you can and will burn out the dash (like I almost did)
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Old 06-03-2007, 01:25 PM   #3
 
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I see the black with green tracker wire from the dash. I just have to make sure to connect that to the ground, correct? The grounding wire in my car's dash will be plain black, right? Should I also splice in another wire and ground it to some metal to be safe? As long as I connect the wires to their respectful colors, I should be good to go?

Thanks
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:22 PM   #4
 
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I'm not 100% sure that the wire in the dash of your car is going to be black, it may also be black/green. Just be sure to note that the black/green wire on the digi dash is the ground wire.

I wouldn't worry about hooking it up to ground. As long as it's getting a ground signal, it will be ok. I can't be 100% sure that all of your wires are going to match up color wise, but it should be pretty close for most of them. Just give it a shot, you really can't damage much, you just need to make sure the main power wires are in the correct spots, that is important, or you will burn it out very quick.

- Jim
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Old 06-03-2007, 02:47 PM   #5
 
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Cluster is BCM Controlled.I have Body Diagnostics Manual for 90 and 92 AG/AJ Body and the "Premium BCM's" are Completly Different.
I have never done a Swap but it looks as though you will not be able to just Splice Wires.
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Old 06-03-2007, 10:17 PM   #6
 
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Cluster is BCM Controlled.I have Body Diagnostics Manual for 90 and 92 AG/AJ Body and the "Premium BCM's" are Completly Different.
I have never done a Swap but it looks as though you will not be able to just Splice Wires.
90acclaim said he's done it, thus it should be slice and play. And in the end, it does all come down to a variable voltage input for speed, rpm, etc, and should be the same voltages. I'll let you all know if it works in about an hour
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Old 06-04-2007, 12:19 AM   #7
 
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ok, I checked it all out.

Here's the situation: there are 20 wires going into the analog dash but only 13 wires going to the digital dash. There are maybe 5 wires from the digital dash that don't have a match from the analog dash. However, 2 of the 5 wires are intertwined and are purple and white with a black tracer that circles around it. Now, the analog dash does not get these two wires, but I remembered these two wires from somewhere before, and yep, those are the same two wires that I spliced into my digital traveler from my BCM. So I'm sure that I just need to splice into those two wires again. Now that just leaves maybe 3 wires that don't have a match.

My question is, if I look at the BCM connectors, would I find these wires? If I do, I could just splice into them and run wires to the digital dash, right?

And the other question, what is up with the 7 more wires in the analog dash??? Why would there be more on the analog dash? And if only 8 wires from the digital dash match up with the analog wires, that means that there are 12 wires from the analog dash that would be emitted!!! WTF! Maybe I'm just too tired from working long shifts this weekend.

I'm going to look over all the wiring again, take notes on whats there and whats not, and look into the BCM, hopefully tomorrow.

If anyone knows of a site that has the wiring diagrams for both dashes, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks a lot.
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Old 06-04-2007, 05:38 AM   #8
 
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The 2 "Intertwined" Wires are CCD Bus Lines
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Old 06-04-2007, 10:24 PM   #9
 
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Does anyone know where I can get the wiring diagrams for the two dashes? Please, it'd really help me out here.

Since the DD has the two bus lines, those should eliminate a lot of the wires to the AD, no? My traveler displays the amount of fuel in the tank, the distance and the mpg which are all derived from rpm and speed. So it would seem as if just wiring in the DD to the bus would take care of a lot of the normal inputs, correct? There are just 4 wires left in the DD that I cannot find the matches for. I haven't opened up the kickpanel, but I'm fairly confident that I'll find those wires there.

Anyone have any advice?
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Old 06-05-2007, 12:09 AM   #10
 
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Time for me to jump in here...

Not all 1990+ J-body digital guage clusters are the same. Physically, they are identical. Logically, they changed for the 1992 model year. There was a class II communication bus blitz that came with the different manufacturer of engine computers as well.
For this cluster to work in a 1993 Daytona, the guage cluster has to be from a 1992+ Lebaron. OR the car has to be converted to 1990-1991 electronics which is quite a bit of work.

Yes, the digital cluster requires fewer wires because of the data bus control. RPM and speed for example do not need their own input wires like the analog cluster does. All that information is on the data bus circuit. Also, I believe the mileage is stored in the SBEC some how. I am unsure of how this works, but I sold a 1990 digital cluster to someone locally who plugged it into his '91 Lebaron and it worked. Odometer showed 91k miles, which is what he believes his car had. I have no idea what kind miles were on the junk yard car that this cluster came out of, but it'd be a heck of a coincidence for them both to have similar mileage. The mileage could be stored in the Body computer for all I really know.

I am pretty certain (its been a few years since I've studied it) that you need the premium body computer for this cluster to work as well.

I found a 1992 Lebaron LX in the yard last December that had the full EVIC system. I pulled the entire wiring harness out of the car, took the engine node module, EVIC module, digital cluster, premium body computer, etc. For my use, it HAD to come from only a 1992 car because it had the updated class II communication bus, and hideaway headlights. It is the only year this was available, so the premium 1992 J-body body computer is rare. One day I will get around to install it into my '92 GTC vert. But wait. It also has a lamp outage module, and the GTC's have different tail lights. GTC's never came with the EVIC system, so I need a lamp outage module from a 1993+ EVIC equipped car blah blah blah blah. In 1992, only the GTCs had those updated tailights. In 1993+ they all had them. Just a little monday evening frustration for y'all.
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Old 06-05-2007, 12:19 AM   #11
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZoskalonMPI
Does anyone know where I can get the wiring diagrams for the two dashes? Please, it'd really help me out here.

Since the DD has the two bus lines, those should eliminate a lot of the wires to the AD, no? My traveler displays the amount of fuel in the tank, the distance and the mpg which are all derived from rpm and speed. So it would seem as if just wiring in the DD to the bus would take care of a lot of the normal inputs, correct? There are just 4 wires left in the DD that I cannot find the matches for. I haven't opened up the kickpanel, but I'm fairly confident that I'll find those wires there.

Anyone have any advice?
Somewhere on the data bus is % fuel remaining according to the sending unit in the tank. The MPG information must be derived from tables based on 55 PSI of fuel pressure flowing at a given rate through a fuel injector. For example, I can throw in my +40 injectors, drop the fuel pressure to 40 PSI static, and wadda boom my gas mileage goes up to 38 mpg according to the traveler. You can leave the car running and fill the gas tank and it does not affect the mpg reading. DTE is based on fuel sending unit voltage and what the traveler calculates your mpg to be. You can also drain the fuel return line into a bucket while its running and mpg reading does not change.

PM me your email address, and I can send you a couple wiring diagrams from Mitchell repair. They'll be in PDF format.
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Old 06-05-2007, 10:09 PM   #12
 
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Everything mentioned above is correct. The newer digi displays don't use analog inputs, and rather use a digital input for things like the odomoter, which is stored on the computer and not the dash.

I took a digi dash out of a 89 4 door LeBaron for mine, and it worked out fine, but I think everyone is correct in that the crossover year is 92

Just so you know I'm not BSing about the digi display in my car. Also, look at the digital climate control as well:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/682348/3
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Old 06-06-2007, 09:03 PM   #13
 
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Oh wow. I didn't know the guage clusters from the pre-1990 G/J bodies would fit in an Acclaim. Or did that require a bunch of modifications? Very cool. The automatic climate controls are another item I want to add to my G/J bodies. Those parts will come out of 1992+ New Yorkers. It requires dash removal and installation of electric motors instead of the vacuum motors. Lots of work. Too many projects. Some day...

Luckily, those old school digital setups are more common and much more easily converted.
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Old 06-06-2007, 10:11 PM   #14
 
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So how to I check if my dash is 92+? Is there a production date on it? Or a serial number? How??
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Old 06-07-2007, 08:54 PM   #15
 
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Ahh, sorry about forgetting about that part! Part number I believe from the guage cluster:



Part number sticker from the node module:


Part number sticker from the body computer:

This is, assuming these are actual part numbers.
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