Ignition Timing

[moparjim]

I just got my car on the road, it's a 1985 Horizon with a 2.5 turbo out of a 1989 spirit in it. Today I check the timing so i take the connector off of the coolant sensor and I set it to 12-14. Then when i plug it back in the timing goes up to 18, which seems a bit much to me. When I first checked the timing it was at about 0-2 and the computer brought it up to around 10-12 with the coolant sensor plugged in. My question is, where should I set my timing at when the coolant sensor is not plugged in or what should it be at when it is plugged in? thanks

[puppet]

12* unplugged.

[moparjim]

ok, I'll try it at 12, but when i set it not too much over that my oil pressure dropped and the engine got a lot hotter when i was sitting at idol after about 5 miles of agressive driving, could the timing be the cause for this problem?

[NAJ]

+1 on 12 Deg +/-2 Deg.
Is the Cooling Fan Working? Is the Cooling System functioning properly?
Do you hear any Detenation?(Pinging)
What Oil are you using? It is Normal for Oil Pressure to drop at Idle and when the Vehicle gets Hot. Oil Pressure is normally checked at 2000 RPM's.
If you are using the Factory Gauge and Sending Unit they are not extremly accurate.

[puppet]

Quote:

Originally Posted by moparjim ok, I'll try it at 12, but when i set it not too much over that my oil pressure dropped and the engine got a lot hotter when i was sitting at idol after about 5 miles of agressive driving, could the timing be the cause for this problem?

Can advanced timing cause extra heat? .. you bet. Advancing the timing moves the combustion event forward in time meaning that the burn stays within the block a bit longer. Because of that, heat has a better chance of being absorbed into the block increasing coolant temperature and oil temperature.
The hotter oil might cause a couple pounds less pressure ... I wouldn't expect to see too much pressure loss though.

Retarding timing moves the combustion event backward .. closer to the exhaust valve opening ... which will increase exhaust gas temperature instead of engine block temperature. It will also reduce knock if your experiencing that.

Depending on what you mean by aggressive driving and what octane of fuel your using you might need to dial the timing down to 10* or so.

[moparjim]

thanks for the info. I was moving the distributor while it was running and left her where it ran best, was at 10-11 without the plug in. but my fans aren't operating even when i unplug the sensor. i've tested the relay and i know the fan works. I recently switched from the stock computer to a stage II MP computer, i don't like it. I'm going back to the stock computer for the next little while because i need the gas mileage. There's no detonation/pinging. I'm using 5w-30 in my car right now I believe, what is a good oil to use? I'm also running on 87 octane most of the time :s and using the stock oil gauge and sending unit. I bought a new cluster of gauges but i havent put them in yet. thanks for your thoughts on what is happening.

[NAJ]

I have been using 5w-30(Mobil 1) for 18 years because I want Quicker Flow to the Turbo on Start Up. You can use a Conventional Oil if it is Turbo Approved and you are right on top of your Maintainance.One of the Keys is to let the Vehicle Idle for 30 Seconds to 1 Minute after driving before Shut Down so the Turbo Temp has a chance to Stabilize.
You should also be running Premium Fuel (Min 91 Octane) with a Turbo.Octane Rating is the Fuels ability to resist Detonation,If you have a Slight Detonation Problem with Regular Fuel you may not hear the Pinging because the Knock Sensor is Retarding Timing.
Does the Cooling Fan work with the Stock Controller?

[turbo minivan]

the mauals for out engines say to use 10w-30, i have a holset turbo off a diesel truck that dosnt seem to like thin oil, so i use 15w-40. 10w-30 i think would be better than 5w-30 unless of course you have a specific reason for going with the thinner stuff as mentiond above. also, the stock oil gauge is retarded,it has no reforence numbers on it!! i put in another oil gauge Td off my turbos oil feed and the readouts of the stock gauge are pathetic! when my accurate gauge reads 40psi, my stock gauge is only sitting at about 1/3 or less. im sure your oil pressure is fine, but if you realy want to watch it, get a real gauge with some numbers on it. and the factory coolent temp gauge is in the same crap shute im sorry to say. Tach as well from what im told.