Voltage Tables

[Matt Cramer]

Depends on the version - most MS versions can support dual table code so that one bank drives fuel injectors and the other bank drives injectors loaded with something else, but MS1/Extra has the option of a dedicated water / meth injection code using an Aquamist fast acting valve. The dedicated code version requires special hardware mods, while the dual-fuel use does not.

[ekimgb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Map Sensor Response Chart Turbocharged Pressure in Inches/HG to Voltage 24.01HG/.43V 18.11HG/.93V 12.20HG/1.42V 6.30HG/1.92V .39HG/2.41V 2.71PSIG/2.91V 5.61PSIG/3.41V 8.51PSIG/3.90V 11.31PSIG/4.40V 14.31PSIG/4.90V TPS Response Chart Throttle Position in Degrees to Increase of Minimum TPS Volts Closed Throttle 10 DEGS/0.00V 20 DEGS/0.38V 30 DEGS/0.75V Half Throttle 45 DEGS/1.31V 58 DEGS/1.80V (1) 75 DEGS/2.43V (2) Wide Open Throttle 90 DEGS/3.00V (1) The computer will usually consider an increase of 1.80 volts or more over the minimum TPS voltage to be WOT. (2)2.43 volts above the minimum TPS voltage during cranking will cause the computer to recognize Clear Flood request shutting off all fuel delivery.

FOr tps
Would these apply to 1986 daytona 2.2 turbo. When i check it off the trottle body is .50v when it attached to the throttle body it is .75v. It seem to sweep well though. but goes right to 4.99v

[NAJ]

Yes your voltage is fine.
When you turn the key on the controller looks at TPS voltage and as long as it is in parameters for closed throttle it uses this voltage as a"minimum" TPS voltage and bases everything else off of this.
If you read data with a scanner it will show "target TPS voltage(minimum) and "actual TPS voltage.
My TPS reads .40 volts at closed throttle and I have seen them read as high as .90 at closed throttle.
WOT could be anywhere from 3.50 volts to 5.00 volts.

[ekimgb]

Thanks alot. Ive been having problems with the car when it warm. It wants to hesitate miss and even buck when hot. I am missing the heat sheild between the exaust and the injectors. You think the injectors could get to hot and fail. I jimmy rigged a heat shield today and it seemed to be better. Only a couple small misses. Also i was wondering about tracing my power loss light. I have checked the bulb and it is fine but light never comes on. any suggestion?

[ekimgb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ Yes your voltage is fine. When you turn the key on the controller looks at TPS voltage and as long as it is in parameters for closed throttle it uses this voltage as a"minimum" TPS voltage and bases everything else off of this. If you read data with a scanner it will show "target TPS voltage(minimum) and "actual TPS voltage. My TPS reads .40 volts at closed throttle and I have seen them read as high as .90 at closed throttle. WOT could be anywhere from 3.50 volts to 5.00 volts.

Thanks alot. Ive been having problems with the car when it warm. It wants to hesitate miss and even buck when hot. I am missing the heat sheild between the exaust and the injectors. You think the injectors could get to hot and fail. I jimmy rigged a heat shield today and it seemed to be better. Only a couple small misses. Also i was wondering about tracing my power loss light. I have checked the bulb and it is fine but light never comes on. any suggestion?

[NAJ]

You should probably open a new thread, no one will find this in the Voltage Tables Sticky.
Does the Power Loss Lamp illuminate during the key on cluster bulb test?
Have you connected a scanner to see if it will communicate?
You need to know if there are any hard faults in the system before you can begin diagnosing a driveability concern.

[ekimgb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by NAJ You should probably open a new thread, no one will find this in the Voltage Tables Sticky. Does the Power Loss Lamp illuminate during the key on cluster bulb test? Have you connected a scanner to see if it will communicate? You need to know if there are any hard faults in the system before you can begin diagnosing a driveability concern.

I can't find where i can make a new thread. I don't think im aloud to. Bulb does not come on at all. Don't Know if it will communicate. And your right it would be good to know if there are any faults.

[NAJ]

I think as long as you are logged in you can open a thread.
Go to forums, click on Turbo Dodge Help and at the top right underneath the page #'s above all the threads click on Forum Tools, then click on "Open New Thread".

[Ondonti]

NAJ, I am looking for the fuel level sender resistance table. I want to buy a fuel cell, and hoping I can find one with a level sender I can use.

[NAJ]

I will take a look but do not ever remember seeing a table for the sending unit.

[NAJ]

Looked it up specifically for your vehicle and this is all I could find.
Hope this helps.


The fuel level sensor is a variable resistor, whose resistance changes as the level of fuel in the tank change.

As the level float arm moves, the wiper on the sensor moves along the trace, either closer to or further away from, the sensor signal terminal.

The further away the sensor pickup is, the higher the resistance across the sensor is.