'87 Daytona Shelby Z wont start

[ntxdodge]

I've got starting problem that I haven't been able to figure out. Car died the other day just as I left the clutch out, it's a 2.2 Turbo II. Since then I've replaced the Pickup (new), cleaned the cap and rotor, replaced the fuel pump (new), tried out the different coil. The car will start after sitting for 3-4 hours, it will run for 3- 10 seconds and then die. Change the fuel pump since it seemed like it may be starved gas. After the fuel pump was changed I still acts the same starting for 3-10 seconds and it dies. Can't restart after the initial 3 -10 seconds.

NO codes on ignition switch. Oh, yes I changed out battery with a new one since it was 5 years old.

Anyone have any ideas what else I can check for?

Ron

[NAJ]

You need to determine which system is creating the stall/no start condition, spark, fuel or both.
You need to connect a fuel pressure gauge and see what the pressure is when the vehicle stalls and will not restart.
Static rail pressure should be 53-57 psi and will drop 1 psi for each 2" vacuum applied to the FPR and will increase 1 psi for each lb of boost.
If fuel pressure is below specs and you have spark does the pump run(see below for loss of spark and fuel to make the pump run),if not check for power and ground at the pump.
If the pump runs and pressure is low check the lines for restictions and fuel filter and for a faulty FPR.
When checking for spark remove the coil wire from the dist cap and hold 1/4" from a good ground(holding more than 1/4" from ground may cause controller damage) and crank for 10 seconds,there should be strong consistant spark(count 1-2 sparks as no spark)
If fuel pressure is good but spark is not present,connect a test light to batt - and while cranking engine check for power at the + coil term,if power is present move the test light to batt + and crank engine while touching coil -, the test light should blink on and off.
If there is no power at the + coil see below for testing ASD circuit,if there is no power at -coil check the coil for an open,if the light comes on but does not blink check the ignition control circuit from the coil to the controller.
If both sides of the coil are ok check the coil wire,if ok replace the coil.
If you are losing fuel pressure and spark your problem may be ASD Relay or HEP circuit related.
To test,when the vehicle stalls, locate the underhood diagnostic connector and with the key on/engine off ground the DB/YL wire, the fuel pump should run,there should be voltage at the + coil term and voltage at the DG/BK wire at the injector harness
and HO2S.
If power is present at all of these items the ASD circuit is good and the problem is in the HEP circuit.
I know that is a lot of info so if you have any questions or concerns just post back and I will be happy to help you thru it.
My PM box is always open also.

[ntxdodge]

Ok, finallly got some good weather to try some of the troubleshooting.

I do have good fuel pressure 53 - 57

Spark from the center cap to ground is not good. I saw initial spark on first crank and then had no spark .

Test light to - negative battery to + positive coil --- Test Light stays on during crank
Test light to - negative battery to neg coil --- Test light stays on during crank
Test light ot + pos battery to + pos coil --- light is on and then goes out during crank
Test light to + pos battery to - neg coil --- light is on and then goes out during crank

Where is the ASD relay?
Is it possible I got a bad HEP pickup from parts store?

Ron

[ntxdodge]

Quick update, I changed out the "PCM" Power Control Module today and the engine cranked right over. Took the Shelby Z for a ride an she ran like a charm.

Thanks for all the troubleshooting info.

Ron