87 tona, wont rev past 4500, now is dead.

[TurboDoctah]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91CSdaytona2.5 Well, I have had my head completely up my A$$. Using a timing light to check cam timing is NOT accurate! There is way too much tolerance between the hole in the cover and the mark on the pulley. I was a tooth off (And have been for a long long time apparently unless it slipped a tooth somehow). I pulled the thing all apart, got out my straight edge and lined up all the marks... Bottom end was good, but the top was off. She'll rev to the moon now. Only thing left I have to figure out is why my tach is intermittently not working. I can turn my boost back up and go for a ride Thanks to all who have chimed in and at least got me headed in the right direction. TDoc, what did that shop figure out on yours???

well sofar they have replaced the temp sensor since it was reading -67* and they are putting in a 3bar map since they say mine wasnt working right at all (could be since i pumped 21psi threw a 2bar) lol but the odd thing was i never got fuel cut... go figure. the shop didnt call me back today so ill have to wait till monday to see if that fixed it.

[gerbot_3000]

Well... i did some things to my car today... checked the plugs and 3 were a little yellowish... and 1 was black, not oily just black.. like rich... this inyector was replaced when i ultrasound cleaned the inyectors and all the 4 were spitting the same level but when installed one was leaking so the guy at the shop gave me a new one for 20dlls.. so i replaced it... maybe it has more flow than my other 3!!! so... damn ill have to drive it like that till i can get a set of 4??? or what do i do other choice?... also i gapped to 35, and retarded just a little the distributor... and when wiggling the map cables it turned off... started it no prob, drived about 10miles and when acceleration it just got cutout very fast, obviously i couldnt know if i would have misfire in upper rpms

so when home, retaped the map connections, and installed a "T" at the wastegate... very slow... i thing the bleed was too small... but didnt get any kind of misfire when flooring it...

today at my lunch from the work, made a bigger bleed to the "T" and put the distributor back to where it was... i'll check how it works when i get home later

also, can someone tell me how to get out the cover to check the marks at crankshaft and oil pump? since i made the swap from tbi to TII(november) i haven't checked it...

[Lone Eagle]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 91CSdaytona2.5 Only thing left I have to figure out is why my tach is intermittently not working.

Pull your cluster and you'll see a small circuitboard over the tach. This is the tach driver board, and the pins are similar to the old Nintendo control decks. They weaken over time, and get dirty. Clean the board(on the cluster) with a pencil eraser and smear a little silicone grease on the traces to the driver board. With a jeweler's screwdriver, gently tweak the pins inside the connector. This cures about 90% of "sputtering tach syndrome". When you reinstall the board, dab some silicone sealer in the original areas and let cure.

If your really savy with a soldering iron, I used a piece of 9-conductor cable and eliminated the connector alltogether. Mine's hardwired now.

[91CSdaytona2.5]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lone Eagle Pull your cluster and you'll see a small circuitboard over the tach. This is the tach driver board, and the pins are similar to the old Nintendo control decks. They weaken over time, and get dirty. Clean the board(on the cluster) with a pencil eraser and smear a little silicone grease on the traces to the driver board. With a jeweler's screwdriver, gently tweak the pins inside the connector. This cures about 90% of "sputtering tach syndrome". When you reinstall the board, dab some silicone sealer in the original areas and let cure. If your really savy with a soldering iron, I used a piece of 9-conductor cable and eliminated the connector alltogether. Mine's hardwired now.

Thanks, I'll give that a try! I was hoping it was a loose or poor connection verus the output from the SMEC. The hardwired option sounds best.

[gerbot_3000]

So, after all i mentioned 3 post above, car ran... fair, i were too lazy to put the boost gauge but, i could floor it, and would rev up to 4000 with no problems, as i had not much space to test the car, i just floored it when i could, the car worked really smooth, why not to try temporarily cancelling the turbo? with the bleed it worked fine for me, just try it...

i think it could rev more than that 4000 but i had no more space, and my machine gun misfiring was before the 4000 but now it is running smooth up to 4000...

[TurboDoctah]

is it monday yet???..... lack of boost is like meth widthdrawal lol..... must have boost!!! cant live with out boost! need more boost!!!... sigh.

[gerbot_3000]

hahaha, well its just so you can track the problem and fix it...

well today i had more space to test it and revved it up to 5000 and shifted, CERO problems, all smooth. still no boost gauge in there, but it seems that the problem was in the map sensor... and/or too much boost. try it without boost man

if it revs, its a problem with a/f and or map. so you forget about sensors hep, timing and other stuff... thats what i think

i am really veeery far to knowing as much as you know but just wanted to give the information i could get of my car.

and far of having your english too, sorry if i make any mistake

[TurboDoctah]

Yep i was told my map was dead. the shop put in a 3 bar map. iv tried it with no boost didnt make a diffrence in my case. but glad you got yours working.

[gerbot_3000]

Is your car working now?

[TurboDoctah]

Nope and im pissed now...i went up there yesterday to pay them and pick up my car, they sed they are still waiting on the gm map harness pigtail thingy. then a worker told me that the boss is out of town and wont be back till monday at the earlyest.. and that since he's not there they cant get into the computers so they cant even ring anyone out. i smell bs there. i cants wait till monday i still have to cut up the exhaust and weld in a cat and get it e-checked/get plates for it. and my temp tags expire soon. sigh...

[TurboDoctah]

got it running good. revs fine from what i can tell.. replaced the water temp sensor/cap/rotor.. fixed some vacume leaks.... found a dead injector.. and #3 has a major leak... 85 on the compresion test and 95-98% leaking on a leak down test. doesnt burn oil.. my guess is a stuck valve? any ideas? my roomy has a G-head that he will sell me.. but my head has bigger valves/3angle valve job and a 89 rollor cam.. im stuck here as moneys becomeing a problem.

[kermit]

1 new valve/valve guide?

Or bad seat?

[TurboDoctah]

it could be the seat... ill find out when the shop rips the head off. im Kinda hopeing its a blown piston. will give me more motivation to put in a common block.. it sux either way cuz my daily drive is dead and my new car (my daytona) is in the shop with #3 not doing a damn thing... very frustrateing. i was told the engine has 20k on it. this could be true. i was also told the head was rebuilt and bigger valves was put in... this could also be true.... but if it is then someone eff'ed up somewhere.. sigh. i have no wheels now so im stuck home till i get this thing running(after the heads been pulled) but teh plates expire on teh 10th of april and i still need to put a cat on it so i can get actual plates for it or i cant have it at my house (stupid city laws) its looking like i wasted 2500 on this car.

[kermit]

When you do a leakdown, can you hear the air coming our of the oil cap or the tailpipe/intake?

[TurboDoctah]

i didnt try to listen to where it was leaking from.i know it wasnt comeing from the crank case since i had the oil cap off.