phatter than a pig!

[guzabri]

so on my GLHS i put in the stage 2 GLHS computer and put in a new o2 sensor because the old one had broken wires. I also put on a 2.5inch downpipe with a 3 inch converter to out the side. It is so rich. You can basically just see the fuel rolling out of the exhaust. Will the computer ever readjust or will it always be rich. O yeah and its so rich that it even fouled the plugs that were in it. Any imput would be helpful thanks.

[speeduphoria]

Quote:

Originally Posted by guzabri so on my GLHS i put in the stage 2 GLHS computer and put in a new o2 sensor because the old one had broken wires. I also put on a 2.5inch downpipe with a 3 inch converter to out the side. It is so rich. You can basically just see the fuel rolling out of the exhaust. Will the computer ever readjust or will it always be rich. O yeah and its so rich that it even fouled the plugs that were in it. Any imput would be helpful thanks.

no the computer wont fix it self, you best bet is getting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a wideband so you can get it closer.

what kind of setup do you have?2.2?

[90TurboVan]

Do NOT use an AFPR to fix it. Contact FWD (assuming that's where you got the cal) and they will fix it. The whole point of a cal is you can plug and play without changing fuel pressure/adding injectors.

[GLHNSLHT2]

a MP Stage 2 cal will NOT cause a rich issue. IT Does NOT ADD ANY FUEL. You have an issue somewhere else. The Stage 2 is emmisions legal (aka Carb certified) because while it does have a more aggressive boost curve it only leans the fuel out above a certain boost level at WOT.

Now if you have a different S2 calibration from somewhere other than MP then you're on your own.

[guzabri]

yeah its the mopar one. Could it be so rich because its been sitting for 6 months and its just running the old gas? What should i check to see whats making the problems. How do i check engine codes? or could someone have put bigger injectors in before i bought the car last september? And before i bought the car i dont really know how much it smokes because it had stock exhaust with some holes in it and the clutch was bad so we only drove it a little bit. Thanks

[kuzman83]

To check the engine codes follow these steps.
Get in your car and turn on/off the ignition three times ending with on, so on off on off on. then watch your power loss/check engine light/whatever yours says and count how many times it blinks. it'll flash a certain # of times then pause then flash more, then longer pause. those 2 numbers you counted from the first 2 sets of flashes is your first #. ie 12 13 or whatever it may be. repeat those steps till it flashes 55 and youre done. Hope this helps and good luck.

[Shadow24V]

fuel deteriorates pretty fast, within a couple months easily.. i had a problem with old fuel clogging my injectors so they would open but not close. the varnishes and such in my old fuel were what clogged my injectors

i was dumping a crap load of fuel into the motor because of this. you could have the same problem. see if when you try and turn the motor over (with no spark) if the injectors are pulsing a fine mist or staying constantly open.

[saulgur1]

Shadow24v
Are you telling him to pull the injector out to see if it is spraying or just put a finger on the still installed injector to see if he can feel the injector clicking open and closed?

[Shadow24V]

hmm, forgot you cant see the spray on teh 4-banger intakes. i was able to look down into the LIM on my v6 but *shrug*. pull the injectors/rail and see if they are stuck open?

[detobias]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shadow24V hmm, forgot you cant see the spray on teh 4-banger intakes. i was able to look down into the LIM on my v6 but *shrug*. pull the injectors/rail and see if they are stuck open?

easy to do.. well not as easy on a 2-piece as a 1-piece

but it is a good troubleshooting step ; verify
1 all injectors are firing
2 all injectors spray pattern looks OK (no dribbles or streams)
3 verify that after you shut off that one or more injectors isnt leaking down

helps to have a friend turn the car over while you point the injectors up in the air ; no smoking now !

I concur with the others that it doesnt sound like a cal specific issue ; you could always swap the stock LM back on and see if problem persists

[guzabri]

Thanks for the help guys, i might pull the fuel rail tomorrow. I would put the old LM back in but i dont even know if its the right one. The guy who i bought it from said something about the wrong computer being in it so he replaced it but when i pulled out the old computer it looked like it was pretty old so i really dont know if its the original or not. Could someone have put in some like +20s injectors in it and thats whats making it rich. you never know with cars like mine.(someone painted the hood with a roller)I hope i can figure this out soon even tho i have a problem with my passenger axle breaking so hopefully i can figure them both out and finally drive this beast. (Its been sitting in the shop for like 6 months)

[bfarroo]

When you have the injectors out grab the PN off them and post them back here or look on the Dodgegarage and see what they are. Also breaking axles is a sign of the engine not being centered correctly causing the axle to bind. Here's how to center it

Engine Centering - MiniMopar Resources

[guzabri]

so i checked engine codes and they gave me 13, 31, and 55. i read that 13 is a map sensor vacumn problem and 31 is a purge solenoid. Im new to these cars so could the problem be the block with all the little lines going to it on the passenger side. There are many lines missing and or broken. Are the lines being there important for the codes that im getting?

[bfarroo]

Your map sensor is going to affect performance a lot. Your going to run rich while in vacuum and lean under boost if the line is cracked or disconnected. The purge solenoid isn't really important it's part of the factory emissions for recycling gas vapors but should affect the car much at all. If anything I would run a new vacuum line from the intake over to the baro solenoid or directly into the map sensor. I don't remember when they switched over but the older cars had the map sensor built into the logic module in the passengers kick panel if it's not on the passengers fender/firewall area. Also make sure the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator is not damaged as it will also effect how the car runs.

[guzabri]

where is the baro solenoid? ill open up the kick panel and see if the line there is broken or disconnected.