experiences with FWDPerformance calibrations

[the.palmetto]

So how do you adjust your A/F ratio just in general? I did a tune-up last week (new plugs, 10mm Magnecores, new coil, new O2 sensor) and it is still running rich. It is sickening and makes me gag smelling the unburnt fuel in my exhaust. I'm guessing my ratio is probably like 9 or 10. I need a wideband but that's only good to see what the ratio is at. So how do I actually tweak the ratio and lean out the mixture?

[ShelbyMopar89]

Quote:

Originally Posted by the.palmetto So how do you adjust your A/F ratio just in general? I did a tune-up last week (new plugs, 10mm Magnecores, new coil, new O2 sensor) and it is still running rich. It is sickening and makes me gag smelling the unburnt fuel in my exhaust. I'm guessing my ratio is probably like 9 or 10. I need a wideband but that's only good to see what the ratio is at. So how do I actually tweak the ratio and lean out the mixture?

Most people just turn their fuel pressure down, this will lean the car out and should help you out. You do need to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to do this though. If I were you I would be very very carefull turning fuel pressure down if you do not have a wideband to see where you are. That is a good way to blow it up.

[tryingbe]

I adjust the table in the calibration via chem2.exe

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tryingbe I adjust the table in the calibration via chem2.exe

What the heck is that?

[tryingbe]

My bad, actual program name is zChEM.exe

Program to edit my custom calibration file.

[IMG]http://www.************.net/tryingbe/dodge/fuel3.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://www.************.net/tryingbe/dodge/fuel3.jpg[/IMG]

[glhs727]

Quote:

Originally Posted by the.palmetto So how do you adjust your A/F ratio just in general? I did a tune-up last week (new plugs, 10mm Magnecores, new coil, new O2 sensor) and it is still running rich. It is sickening and makes me gag smelling the unburnt fuel in my exhaust. I'm guessing my ratio is probably like 9 or 10. I need a wideband but that's only good to see what the ratio is at. So how do I actually tweak the ratio and lean out the mixture?

If you car has styock injectors and stock ecu, it should not be pig rich. The first thing I would check is your codes, and then fuek pressure. If you have a bad regulator, you will get too much fuel pressure and it will be so pig rich as you describe. If you have a bad O2, the ecu will throw a code, and then go into limp mode, and so run pig rich. Also if you have a short in the in jector harness, your injectors will go 100% duty cycle and run pig rich. First find out why you are rich before you throw more money into it.

We sell hundreds of cals a year. The hard start complaint is usually only on some of the most modified set-ups, and it varies from set-up to set-up. We are happy to address any issue our customers may have, so if anyone needs some more tweaks, let me know by calling me. When it really comes down to it, only about 5-10% have issues on the first try, and we try hard to take care of those people by providing free revisions. In addition, all our cals are socketed free of charge, and if you are the original owner of one of our cals, and you change your set-up, you can send in your ecu for a new calibration to match your new set-up for FREE! The downside is that we stay EXTREMELY busy so there is a wait.

Tryingbe - 83 lb injectors, wow, sounds like you have a pretty wild ride if you need that big of injectors. I'd love to hear more about your ride!! please tell us more!
later,
Cindy

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by glhs727 If you car has styock injectors and stock ecu, it should not be pig rich. The first thing I would check is your codes, and then fuek pressure. If you have a bad regulator, you will get too much fuel pressure and it will be so pig rich as you describe. If you have a bad O2, the ecu will throw a code, and then go into limp mode, and so run pig rich. Also if you have a short in the in jector harness, your injectors will go 100% duty cycle and run pig rich. First find out why you are rich before you throw more money into it.

Ok first of all I don't mean to sound like an idiot but what is pig rich? I know what rich is but I've never heard pig rich. Anyway, my codes are giving me a 53 for logic module fault. How can I check the fuel pressure? I already have a new O2. How do I check the injector harness for shorts? Can I use a multi-meter somehow? Any help so I can find the cause of this would be awesome thanks.

[charger R/T]

pig rich is just a term like there is rich then there is extremely rich pig rich is extremely rich.
Some rechipped computers set a code 53 that is normal on those computers my rechipped R/T computer sets the 53.
To check fuel pressure you need a fuel pressure gauge and you hook it up to the service port on the fuel rail.
Tim

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by charger R/T pig rich is just a term like there is rich then there is extremely rich pig rich is extremely rich. Some rechipped computers set a code 53 that is normal on those computers my rechipped R/T computer sets the 53. To check fuel pressure you need a fuel pressure gauge and you hook it up to the service port on the fuel rail. Tim

Great but what is the pressure supposed to be reading when I check it? Do you know how to check for a short in the injector harness? The smell of fuel is almost nauseating. It doesn't just smell like rich exhaust, it actually smells like raw fuel it's so bad. No fuel leaks though. I just filled up earlier and did the math...I am getting 13.8 MPG!!!!!!!!!! I am getting aggravated here! Also I don't believe I have a modded ECU because the fuel injectors are stock. I think maybe the ECU is dumping fuel unnecessarily but I will see what happens after I check the other stuff. Still need to know how to check the injector harness though. Thanks again.
-Eric

[Reaper1]

^^OK, well if it is a stock ECU and it's setting a code 53, then there is an issue. However, SOME of the aftermarket ECU's don't require larger injectors, os it is still possible that you have an aftermarket ECU.

An easy check for a certain type of FPR failier is to pull the vacuum line off of it and see if there is fuel in the vacuum harness. If there is, then the diaphragm in the FPR is bad.

Also, the stock vaccum harnesses in these cars are notriously JUNK!(especially after around 20 years in a really hot engine bay) I'd consider redoing the entire thing just to be sure there are no leaks. This can take about an afternoon, but if done correctly the car will run a LOT better(normally). Be sure to run a line ONLY for the MAP sensro and ONLY for the FPR. Those two lines are critical for the car to run and drive well. The boost control line just needs to be run in a short route with no leaks.

As for checking the injector harness...you will need a volt meter. Basically you want to make sure that the wires do not have continuity between them with the harness standing alone(no injectors, no engine bay harness plugged in). Especially pay attention to the grounds as that is how the computer controlls the injectors.

HTH some...

[The Pope]

Many custom cals are in the stock box. Some early FWD cals I have and an old ND cal both are unmarked other than stock. Most put a sticker on the chip you can see. So I would look in the computer box. My kids car now is a 85 GLH for instance and I'll get a cal with the sticker on the inside, where no one see's it. This can be nice for CA people where you want no way for a cop to complain, other than cheating like I want to do =P

So at least look in the box.

^^ yeah you can get over 500 WHP with 83lb injectors unless it is the TBI.

[mario03SRT]

I gotten the best performance from my Stg5 FWD Cal by NOT using a 1 to 1 Boost fuel pressure setup. I went to a static FP setup around 58 psi. (27 psi Boost on a 46 Trim T3/T4) So it leans out nicely @ WOT in the 11's, the cold startup is still 2 cranks or one loonngg one. The idle both cold and hot are spot on. The WB takes a minute to go from 11 AFR to 14.7 during initial startup while the cal is triming back the + 40's. I do not have any part throttle issues at all. The car made 332 HP and runs like a top.

I have had this cal for 18 months and finally got er right!

Marion

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Reaper1 ^^An easy check for a certain type of FPR failier is to pull the vacuum line off of it and see if there is fuel in the vacuum harness. If there is, then the diaphragm in the FPR is bad. Also, the stock vaccum harnesses in these cars are notriously JUNK!(especially after around 20 years in a really hot engine bay) I'd consider redoing the entire thing just to be sure there are no leaks. This can take about an afternoon, but if done correctly the car will run a LOT better(normally). Be sure to run a line ONLY for the MAP sensro and ONLY for the FPR. Those two lines are critical for the car to run and drive well. The boost control line just needs to be run in a short route with no leaks. As for checking the injector harness...you will need a volt meter. Basically you want to make sure that the wires do not have continuity between them with the harness standing alone(no injectors, no engine bay harness plugged in). Especially pay attention to the grounds as that is how the computer controlls the injectors.

Ok. Well, I checked that really tiny little vaccuum hose that comes off of the right side of the FPR and put it right up to my nose and it smellt like gas. I decided to check all the other hoses and lo and behold! I found a hose that came from either the baro or the map I'm not sure. It was a round thing with a spring in it. In any event, the hose coming from the right side was disconnected where it attached somewhere else in the engine bay. Otherwise I'm not sure how to check how "good" or not a vaccuum hose is if it is still connected.

After that I tried to run it down the street to see if there was a difference and seemed like there was until I blew a hole in my IC Piping!!!!! I am speechless. This car makes me want to drive it off a cliff. I am ready to give up I don't have money for all this right now. Anyway, what do you mean by continuity? Am I looking for volts, ohms, amps, or what?

[ShelbyMopar89]

Quote:

Originally Posted by the.palmetto Ok. Well, I checked that really tiny little vaccuum hose that comes off of the right side of the FPR and put it right up to my nose and it smellt like gas. I decided to check all the other hoses and lo and behold! I found a hose that came from either the baro or the map I'm not sure. It was a round thing with a spring in it. In any event, the hose coming from the right side was disconnected where it attached somewhere else in the engine bay. Otherwise I'm not sure how to check how "good" or not a vaccuum hose is if it is still connected. After that I tried to run it down the street to see if there was a difference and seemed like there was until I blew a hole in my IC Piping!!!!! I am speechless. This car makes me want to drive it off a cliff. I am ready to give up I don't have money for all this right now. Anyway, what do you mean by continuity? Am I looking for volts, ohms, amps, or what?

Ahh yes now you sound like a TDer, hang with it. Once you get it right you will love it, just take your time and do it the right way the first time. A lot of people make their life harder with these cars by doing cheap repairs....you get what you pay for. As far as the continuity that is checking for ohms, basically checking the wire from end to end to make sure it is not broken (open) or shorted to ground, or possibly checking to make sure the resistance is correct if it is going to a sensor, relay, ect.

[the.palmetto]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ShelbyMopar89 Ahh yes now you sound like a TDer, hang with it. Once you get it right you will love it, just take your time and do it the right way the first time. A lot of people make their life harder with these cars by doing cheap repairs....you get what you pay for. As far as the continuity that is checking for ohms, basically checking the wire from end to end to make sure it is not broken (open) or shorted to ground, or possibly checking to make sure the resistance is correct if it is going to a sensor, relay, ect.

I had the fuel system checked with a pressure gauge and it should have been reading at 55psi +/-2 and it was bang on 55. This means my regulator and everything up to the injectors are fine. I also did an Ohm test on each injector and they all read at about 2.8 Ohms. After that I pulled off the injector harness and tested each injector through the harness one by one and even all hooked together, any combination got me a solid 2.8 Ohms across the board. The only thing I have not checked is to see if the ECU is aftermarket or not. However, the process of elimination has led me to believe the ECU is bad because of the code 53. Most likely I will find it is stock. If not then I am stumped because I checked everything else.